mojo hdr vs mach 6
- Thread starter RydeMTB28
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socalMX
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Good review, looks like a ripper! I was kinda stumped on the cable routing as well when viewing in person. I hope I have as much stoke on whatever bike I choose! I think for the OP the choice should be quite clear... Found this pic, a good example. Would bother me having the cables ride the shock. Pic just so happened to be a side x side with the Warden, both look amazing here.Better late than never. If you are going 275 Mach 6 /thread. I would not consider the HD/R in 130 mode personally. It is too much of a compromise. Over built for the amount of travel although a lot of people ride them and like them. Just not my cup of cocoa.
If you just want a 155-160 bike there is more nuance, but I would still recommend the Mach 6. First off they absolutely nailed the suspension curve. It climbs really well and I have no problem on the steep loose climbs that I ride daily. This is with a 160 Pike and not the 150 that they show in the geometry numbers. It is a rocket on the descents as well. Really there is nothing it doesn't do well. Regarding the stem height and climbing, with both stems slammed the bars are significantly lower than my HDR. When I measured it was more than 1" difference. If you are not used to climbing a 6" bike that may be the difference. It climbs every bit as well as the HD.
So what is to dislike? First off the cable routing SUCKS! It has "internal" routing which means it goes inside the top tube for about 12" (BFD) so that they can put it in the marketing. What it really means is the cables rub on the front of the shock and the housing is not continuous. It is is a total PITA. Second it is not nearly as long as it looks on paper. They claim an effective seat tube angle of 71.5 but according to my measurement it is 66. If you run outside the "norms" of seat height this could be an issue. The reach is slightly longer than my HD, but not much. I am running the same stem length as my HD for comparison. Other than that I can't think of anything and neither should stop you from getting one.
I am not sure which one is faster because I only have about 5 rides on the M6 and have not gone back and ridden the HDR at all. From a company perspective Ibis is first class. I had to deal with them on three occasions (not bike flaws) and they were amazing both times. One last note is that MBA just posted a review of the M6 and said they have not ridden a better bike. Not a fan of their reviews, but this one I have to agree with and not just because I own one. For those that don't know I also have an Enduro 29 which was "Bike of the Year" for several sites and magazines, but my view was a little different.
Pic below from today
Better late than never. If you are going 275 Mach 6 /thread. I would not consider the HD/R in 130 mode personally. It is too much of a compromise. Over built for the amount of travel although a lot of people ride them and like them. Just not my cup of cocoa.
If you just want a 155-160 bike there is more nuance, but I would still recommend the Mach 6. First off they absolutely nailed the suspension curve. It climbs really well and I have no problem on the steep loose climbs that I ride daily. This is with a 160 Pike and not the 150 that they show in the geometry numbers. It is a rocket on the descents as well. Really there is nothing it doesn't do well. Regarding the stem height and climbing, with both stems slammed the bars are significantly lower than my HDR. When I measured it was more than 1" difference. If you are not used to climbing a 6" bike that may be the difference. It climbs every bit as well as the HD.
So what is to dislike? First off the cable routing SUCKS! It has "internal" routing which means it goes inside the top tube for about 12" (BFD) so that they can put it in the marketing. What it really means is the cables rub on the front of the shock and the housing is not continuous. It is is a total PITA. Second it is not nearly as long as it looks on paper. They claim an effective seat tube angle of 71.5 but according to my measurement it is 66. If you run outside the "norms" of seat height this could be an issue. The reach is slightly longer than my HD, but not much. I am running the same stem length as my HD for comparison. Other than that I can't think of anything and neither should stop you from getting one.
I am not sure which one is faster because I only have about 5 rides on the M6 and have not gone back and ridden the HDR at all. From a company perspective Ibis is first class. I had to deal with them on three occasions (not bike flaws) and they were amazing both times. One last note is that MBA just posted a review of the M6 and said they have not ridden a better bike. Not a fan of their reviews, but this one I have to agree with and not just because I own one. For those that don't know I also have an Enduro 29 which was "Bike of the Year" for several sites and magazines, but my view was a little different.
Pic below from today
Great info. Thank you for the reviews!
Danimal
Gary the Cat
scottay
New Member
scottay
New Member
Lots of companies advertising this bogus measurement. Thats why I got rid of my Knolly years ago. Really makes a difference if you run a lot of seatpost.
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Lovin
Calmer 'n you are
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All the Santa Cruz frames, until you get to the new ones with the "stealth" dropper post routing.
Good review, looks like a ripper! I was kinda stumped on the cable routing as well when viewing in person. I hope I have as much stoke on whatever bike I choose! I think for the OP the choice should be quite clear... Found this pic, a good example. Would bother me having the cables ride the shock. Pic just so happened to be a side x side with the Warden, both look amazing here.
Just an FYI, but the M6 in the picture does not have the standoffs for the cable routing as it should. I may try making mine a little taller to see if it helps.
Danimal
Gary the Cat
Duplicate post. Delete.
Better late than never. If you are going 275 Mach 6 /thread. I would not consider the HD/R in 130 mode personally. It is too much of a compromise. Over built for the amount of travel although a lot of people ride them and like them. Just not my cup of cocoa.
If you just want a 155-160 bike there is more nuance, but I would still recommend the Mach 6. First off they absolutely nailed the suspension curve. It climbs really well and I have no problem on the steep loose climbs that I ride daily. This is with a 160 Pike and not the 150 that they show in the geometry numbers. It is a rocket on the descents as well. Really there is nothing it doesn't do well. Regarding the stem height and climbing, with both stems slammed the bars are significantly lower than my HDR. When I measured it was more than 1" difference. If you are not used to climbing a 6" bike that may be the difference. It climbs every bit as well as the HD.
So what is to dislike? First off the cable routing SUCKS! It has "internal" routing which means it goes inside the top tube for about 12" (BFD) so that they can put it in the marketing. What it really means is the cables rub on the front of the shock and the housing is not continuous. It is is a total PITA. Second it is not nearly as long as it looks on paper. They claim an effective seat tube angle of 71.5 but according to my measurement it is 66. If you run outside the "norms" of seat height this could be an issue. The reach is slightly longer than my HD, but not much. I am running the same stem length as my HD for comparison. Other than that I can't think of anything and neither should stop you from getting one.
I am not sure which one is faster because I only have about 5 rides on the M6 and have not gone back and ridden the HDR at all. From a company perspective Ibis is first class. I had to deal with them on three occasions (not bike flaws) and they were amazing both times. One last note is that MBA just posted a review of the M6 and said they have not ridden a better bike. Not a fan of their reviews, but this one I have to agree with and not just because I own one. For those that don't know I also have an Enduro 29 which was "Bike of the Year" for several sites and magazines, but my view was a little different.
Pic below from today
Awesome thanks for the input. What i was mostly worried about was climbing the beginning of mathis/willow since these are the climbs i pretty much always ride. Also when i demoed the m6 at the bikeco they did remove the spacer and slammed the stem thus improving the climbing ability. I was thinking of running the pike 150mm but it seems like everyone is going with the 160mm on the m6. Is there much difference in the head tube angle by doing this? is it something i am going to notice? Great shot by the way that trail looks fun!
herzalot
Well-Known Member
10 mm of axle to crown translates to 0.5* head angle, generally. As long as you don't go below 66* you should be fine, especially if you drop your chest (thumbs over bars) when you climb. That means your saddle nose is delicately balanced between, well, let's just say it's nearly inserted.
My HA measures at 65.6 vs the stock 66 with a 150. The Pike is slightly shorter than Fox travel for travel.
This is a climb I do a few times per week
http://www.strava.com/segments/1220554
If you trace it you will see grades as high as 23%. These sections are chewed up, powdery, rocky chutes and I can get up them just fine with either the Mach 6 or HDR. The HA on the HDR is 66.5 with my Lyrik 170 on it. Overall the Pivot feels a little more balanced on the climbs. It is easier to stall out and keep going without dabbing. Hard to explain, but hopefully you get the idea. If you have any specific questions let me know.
This is a climb I do a few times per week
http://www.strava.com/segments/1220554
If you trace it you will see grades as high as 23%. These sections are chewed up, powdery, rocky chutes and I can get up them just fine with either the Mach 6 or HDR. The HA on the HDR is 66.5 with my Lyrik 170 on it. Overall the Pivot feels a little more balanced on the climbs. It is easier to stall out and keep going without dabbing. Hard to explain, but hopefully you get the idea. If you have any specific questions let me know.
socal stinky
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Is this due to your HDR built up with a 170mm fork, whereas the M6 has a 150mm fork?
Id like to hear your opinion about the HDR with a 150-160 fork. I'm interested in an HDR but would build it with a 160 or maybe a 150 fork.
My M6 is built with a 160 Pike which is why the HA is 65.6. Pivot's geo numbers are shown with a 150 Fox which is only about 6 mm shorter A2C. I rode my HD for a while with a Float 160 and like it much better with the Lyrik 170. I don't think the balance has anything to do with the fork differences. More likely it has to do with the BB being 1/4" lower on the M6.
If I was to build it new I would go Pike 275 160 even If I was building it as a 26. With the Pike 160 you split the difference between the 160 and 170 forks that I have run previously in terms of A2C and saves about 3/4 of a pound over the Lyrik as well.
If I was to build it new I would go Pike 275 160 even If I was building it as a 26. With the Pike 160 you split the difference between the 160 and 170 forks that I have run previously in terms of A2C and saves about 3/4 of a pound over the Lyrik as well.