Any tips/tricks for getting the bearing out of an Intense frame so I can replace them? They're so tight it's like they used loctite on them. I've been trying the screwdriver and hammer from the opposite side method, but haven't managed to get them to budge. How hard can I hammer it? I've worked my way up to a pretty firm hit, but am scared to go much harder. Any help would be appreciated - Thanks!
No loctite used, hammer hard my friend. Just like you said, opposite side method and let er rip. Hope that helps.
I recently replaced the bearings in my FSR and to get the bearings out I jury rigged a system using a c clamp and a few different sizes of wrench sockets. It took quite a bit of trying different sizes but got them out without damaging the frame, don't know if it'll work the same on your bike though.
DO NOT hammer the bearings with a screw driver!! You are putting uneven pressure on the bearing and fvcking up the bearing races. The best way is to make your own bearing press. All you usually need is a hardware store bolt the same size as the pivot axle, some washers, a nut, and a socket set. You should be able to figure out the rest.
Thanks for the advice. I gave it a few more whacks, but was not happy about putting so much sharp and uneven force on something seated so tightly. I was worried about driving the bearing into the race. Thanks for the McGyver tip jamesdc - seems so obvious now, dunno why I didn't think of it. Anyway, I got them out using my newly constructed 'bearing-puller' using some SERIOUS torque. And guess what I found on them...blue loctite! It came like this from the factory. Why would Intense put loctite on the races? Are they trying to make us mess up our frames taking the bearings out? The only reason I can think of for doing that is to cover up loose bearings from poor machining of the races. Did I mention this frame was made by INTENSE... Anyway, I don't think I'm going to schmear my replacement bearings with loctite before installing them (does anyone think this would be a good idea?) although I am going to check for looseness very very frequently for the next few months. I am kinda sucspicious about the loctite... Oh, and I think hammer & screwdriver method would probably work okay if there wasn't any loctite, but I would strongly recommend anyone who hasn't yet replaced their bearings on their Intense to make a 'puller' unless they're sure they're not loctited in there...DON'T risk your frame. I hit them so freakin' hard and they didn't budge... Thanks again for the advice.
Okay, no disrepect to the do-it-yourself methods, but are not some things that when you find yourself asking these types of questions on a message board, and knowing the financial risk if done wrong, at what point does one say "I do not know how to do this, better take it to a pro/shop" :?: You can always learn what they do and the tools needed from the tech, and maybe watch and learn so you can do it in the future, but I would not risk damaging my 6.6 if I am out of my realm of expertise... Just my .02, no offense to anyone :wave:
Here's what I use for my "bearing puller". Some leftover steerer tube, threaded rod, nuts/washers and some misc sized sockets.
Replacing bearing should NOT potentially f- up your frame. I have replaced plenty of bike's bearings in my time and it's a pretty simple mechanical task. I was actually shown the screwdriver/mallet by a bike mechanic. Zinn also recommends it. Anyway, if someone glues in a bolt that shouldn't be glued in I blame them, not the person trying to get it out. What is Intense up to loctiting bearings in? PS I used an old headset to make my 'bearing puller'
Depending on the local shop, you're making a big assumption that they know what they're doing :-k Personally, if I can find instructions on how to do it and I have access to the materials needed I'll give it a try. I hate paying someone to do something I can do myself if I have the time to do it and this applies to pretty much anything. I bathe and trim both of my dogs, I cook most of my own meals (I can cook better food than most moderately priced restaurants), and it kills me that I have to take my cars somewhere to get the oil changed because I don't have the facilities to do it at my condo. I have a "DIY" spirit I guess.
If they are very tight, use a heat gun to gently heat the aluminium around the bearing before attempting removal. The aluminium will expand more than steel and should allow easier removal with less hammering. Be careful of bashing out the bearing, as you run the risk of distorting or damaging the machined bearing housing. If in doubt, take it to an auto workshop or similar and get them to use there press to get the old bearing out and the new one in. They should do it for a few bucks and/or a 6 pack, which is cheaper than damaging the frame or rear triangle.
1st bearing on lower link - have to use screwdriver method. Simply no other way to get them out due to crush tube. Probably be easier the second time around as they won't be loctited in (ALL my bearings were loctited in by the way and made a loud ping when I finally got them unglued from their races) Once you get one out and the crush tube removed you can get the opposite bearing out with a homemade bearing puller (better than using the screwdriver method again) Upper link bearings - I used a vice and sockets to push them out. A vice and sockets also work well for pushing the bearings back in. Thanks again for the advice everybody. Here are Intense's instructions on replacing their bearings in case anybody needs them:
no what about a blown bearing where all thats left is the outer part of the bearing nothing in the middle for a puller, is the skrew driver method ok and the only way?
In this situation you'll need a small "pencil" grinder, either a Dremel, Foredom or pneumatic (air driven) type. The key is to grind a slot in it (the leftover bearing) without grinding into the frame. It's hardened steel, so unless you have a carbide bit you might go through a few of the "stones" provided in the Dremel kit. If you do it right, you can easily pop it out with a small screwdriver (no hammer needed). Good luck.
I use this one for my mountain bikes and dirtbikes. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/viewLargerImage.do?stockId=170794&imgId=0&navType=type#OtherImages
