If you take it to a Honda dealer, you won't need to ask - that's all they use. It's a hit and miss at independent repair facilities.
We have an on car, and I hate that effin thing...... More of a pain in the ass than its worth.... We have a pair of nice ammco's that work wonders, specially with the adapters we have.... I have used the cup and cone setup in a long ass time, we have the cool selfcentering ratcheting deal that was about 6 bills. Only time we cant use that is on bering type hubs, which we have a full compliment of mounts for...... Im also very picky about keeping up with everything as well.
I use the On car, specialy when dealing with some of GM's new crap that doesnt have a friggen mount hole in the hub.
If the vibration is still new, try doing a few hard decelerations (don't come to a stop) from 50ish to 10. The warping of a rotor isn't usually from an out of true rotor, but rather uneven brake deposits on the rotor from the transfer layer between the pad and rotor. The hard decelerations induce heat into the transfer layer may be able to break down the old and create a new even layer.
If this doesnt work, pepboys can machine down the rotors for $10 each.
Not sure what build up layer your talking about, never even heard of that before, once a rotor is warped its warped... there is no way a few hard stops will make a warp go away. If your getting build up on the rotor between the pads..... Something is seriously wrong.
warped rotors actually have a single main cause.......... Its a simple one...... most people dont realize it..... Lee can back me up on this.....
uneven wheel torque......
Specially on the new sealed hub systems with zero freepaly in the bearings... Youll feel every little bit of warp in the rotor, now with the older bearing system were the hub and rotor were one peice, you would be allowed a certain freeplay in the bearing that would such up alot of that vibration.
When you have an uneven clamping force on the rotor, then heat it, it will follow that uneven force, you end up with a warped rotor.
go get some american , japanese or canadian made rotors and some ceramic pads and put them on its very simple. these rotors are floating....no need for a overpriced dealer. turning rotors is a thing of the past anymore since rotors are so inexpensive now.people get nailed for brake jobs all day long i would hate to see that happen to you
good luck if you need any help pm me i will lend you a hand and the tools if needed:beer:
Yes, most brake jobs are pretty simple, but something to remember, those rotors even though cheaply built, are still designed to run a specific type of pad. Not all rotors can work properly with ceramic pads. Organic, Semi metallic, carbon, and Ceramic all have a different heat range were they work properly....... Unless you have modified the braking system to work in a different heat range than what was factory...ALWAYS USE THE ORIGINAL TYPE.......
Bottom line is, Ill give it a 99 percent odds that this is indeed warped rotors, if the car was in my shop I would be checking there first, but as a sure measure I would also check balance as well just to be sure...... Its not very often I find it more, and we do a shit load of brakes at my shop. What lee was saying about rotor thickness and proper machining is dead on..... If I am doing a brake job that has zero complaint of vibration, I already know I will be using up .020 of an inch to get a proper cut and surface RA for the brake job.... When I measure the rotor to begins with I take this into account on my inspection.... Your first fast cut which makes the rotor even, will take .006 off each side, and the fnish cut which will be slower, and provide a proper RA will take .004 of each side then a proper hone to eliminate the sawtooth effect the lathe leaves on the rotor. Now if its warped there is a little mroe involved in that math to make sure you have enought o make the rotor straight and true and still stay above your Minimum machine<Not to be confused with discard.... very different numbers> As long as your are above theminimum machine, your going to be ok with rotor heat dissapation.
There is a little more to turning a rotor than just sticking it on the lathe, a proper cut will provide an even surface, and the proper RA< think surface friction> for the type of pad that is being used on the vehicle. I actually have the tool that checks this, its pretty neat tells me how rough a rotor surface is.......
Its more than just replace the rotors and pads and go for a proper brake job. Even new rotors are usually already warped because some jackass stock boy decided he could say room by standing them on end for storage, or the shelf they are being kept on is an old ass sagging wooden shelf which both will induce a warp without heating the rotor up......
I could go on for days about different things that cause problems, bottom line is, a good tech<not a mechanic> knows the proper steps involved in a good brake job. Overall your looking for stopping power, proper modulation, no noise, and longevity for a minimum of 12k miles post brake service, preferably longer. If the job is done proplery, there is no reason why< unless driver is a jackass> the brakes shouldnt be going far longer than 12K without making noise, and still maintain proper braking without warping the rotors.
Aftermarket or factory pads dont make that much of a difference unless your using shitty 12 dollar pads from AZ or Kragen...... Get a good pad, My current favorite is Centric, I used to keep our shelves stocked with wagner, but seems about eight months or so ago, there mix went to shit, and every set we were installing was getting less than a K before making just terrible noise..... Centric makes a great product, and without telling you all teh reasons why they work well.... let me just say this......... I dont care if a pad is prescorched, and reads it needs no break in period..... Your rotor still needs a break in period to match up to the pad..... So be nice to your brakes after a brake service, new brakes make more heat than those that are broken in..... Let the two mating surfaces hone themselves a bit before you go stomping on them super hard....... Nothing like an overheated rotor right off the bat on brand new brakes.
Ok Im done rambling for the moment
