SUCK! My 2001 Nissan frontier died.... headgasket? Gearheads...

Ive only done that once and I dont really sell things

 

anyone know the threads of an oil pressure sender on the VG33 motor? Ive been told 28thread 1/8 NPT, or 27Thread BPST

When the truck overheated, the oil pressure light was on, but dim. Its a simple ground or no ground switch. The dim light is a key.... it took 4KOHMS to replicate the dim light, which makes me believe it could be a chafed wire, or a simple short to ground on the oil pressure sender wire.

Until i put a gauge on it, i wont crank it. Need to know if its BSPT or NPT so i can go buy an adapter

 

Most likely NPT, SAE o-ring boss, or metric o-ring boss. BSPT's usually came on British cars. Even if it were a Renault brain child, I don't think that it would come with bspt. I think that you need to PM BRparts. I thought that he was a Nissan parts guy. It's worth a shot!

 

nope. its most likely bpst. on the sr20det engine, in order to run the autometer oil pressure sending unit, i had to run an adapter from mcmaster carr from 1/8bpst to 1/8npt.

nope. its most likely bpst. on the sr20det engine, in order to run the autometer oil pressure sending unit, i had to run an adapter from mcmaster carr from 1/8bpstt to 1/8npt.

 

ARRON, lets make it simple.Just jump the sensor to ground and look what the gauge does.If it is a single pin it goes to a ground.If it is two pins one is voltage and one is ground.Ohms? just check continuity,If you have continuity then worry about ohms later.You should always have less than .25MA draw on any circuit in The car world that is.This is subjective.

 

Dude it is standard metric,SAE is dead.Toyota Uses 8mm,10mm,12mm 14mm and some bigger stuff. 22,24,30 CHEVY/FORD uses the same.Germans like the 5.5 ,6,7 13,17 and 21 in torx style .Anyhow.

 

Danny, I know. Single pin, it is continous to ground, but the dim light (not full bright is a key). The sender cannot fail in that mode. A chafed wire hitting ground could be 4000 OHms.....

 

If that's the case, then remove the wire going to the sensor. Turn the key to the "ON" position. if you still get a low oil pressure light, you know you have a short in the wire. Sounds pretty straight forward to me. Other wise, you are either looking at a bad sensor or bad pump. Just my 2 Yens.....

 

ken, yes if i unplug the sender the light goes out. Could be an intermittant short though.

Bad oil pump as a result of a slight overheat, and possible head gasket? Meh....

I should have a BSPT adapter in a day or so.

 

danny, that is wrong. everything else on nissans is metric, but their oil pressure sending units are not. the vg33e sending unit looked identical to my sr20 one. its probably the same part.

aaron, you are correct, the oil pressure light is a dummy light. in my experience if you ever see that light come on, your rod bearings are done. we called it the 'your motor is ****ed light' it is either fully grounded, or open. in your case, the resistance is limiting the current and causing the light to dim. bad sensor or intermittent ground.

 

When i did the first compression test (HF gauge...), the motor made no abnormal noises. You would have thought that if it had no oil pressure, the hydraulic lifters would have bled out by then (and would have clacked like crazy). (they fill up at startup correct?)

 

go to mcfadden-dale, make yourself an adapter to connect the oil pressure light switch to a schraeder valve. Use a shock pump and start pumping to see at what pressure the light goes out at. If if takes more than 15psi-30psi, you know you have a bad sensor. Otherwise you have a bad pump. If you have a bad pump, proceed to pour gas all over the car/truck and light it on fire!:lol: Bonfire at chewy's house!

 

I refuse! shit, i will just drop a crate 383 in there and call it done. LOL

 

Screw the 383, put a RB26DETT in there. It'll at least be another Nissan engine. Then again, you may not know what to do with all that power......:lol:

 

the nissan hl's dont seem to bleed out. they hold oil in fairly well, so just because you didnt hear any noises doesnt mean you have oil pressure. ive swapped in motors where they'd been sitting for years and i wont hear any valvetrain noise. then some motors, i have to manually bleed air out of the lifters. go figure.

i dont think its bad oil pump though. were you about to stall? ive seen the light flicker when you are too low of rpm.

 

I'll sell you my 600 HP 440 I have sitting in my '69 A body...

 

Do what I said earlier sell it

 

Just popped into this thread, and thought I would oofer this. This Nissan motor you have, also had problems with the oil pickup plugging. Nothing anyone does or doesnt do, I had one myself in the shop that I just didnt belive that was what it was till I pulled the pan myself. Found it in an obscure TSB when I was out of ideas, it listed to check the Oil pickup for contamination, problem with the pan gasket flaking off internally, and also listed to check the pickup itself for being loose, which of coarse would starve the motor for oil, causing an "almost" low oil pressure, and an overheating situation. If your already tearing the heads off, then it would be a good idea to drop the pan and verify everything is ok there as well. The one I had was described damn near identicle to what your describing, no knocking, the oil is getting in, just not enough, possibly foaming up preventing proper lubrication.

 

Is it diagnosed and fixed yet????????????????? It's not like you have anything better to do.....

 

this is why i like toyota motors