Stripped crank arm (can't thread pedal to crank)

whats up everybody :wave:. my friend just gave me his old Jamis Ranger SX for 30 bucks. the front and rear brakes need centering and adjusting, the front and rear deraiuller needs adjusting, wheel truing. the main problem with the bike is that the right crank arm is stripped! i tried to thread a pedal through it but with no luck.

do i need to replace the entire crankset and bottom bracket in order to fix this problem? what kind of tools will i be needing? is it possible to just replace the arms with another set of crank arms? anybody here have a spare crankset that they would like to sell on the cheap?

i intend to use this bike as a commuter with little trail riding. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks! :beer:

 

you'll have to replace the cranks and perhaps the bb if you it is specific to that crank.

 

goto your lbs(local bike shop) they can try to tap the cranks... if not you can buy new cranks for under $100

 

Throw it in the gutter, and go buy a nudder.

 

First make sure you have the correct pedal for that side.

The threads on pedals are allways going in the forward direction.
Then if it is for sure no going to thread in clean everything out with a quetip and some degreaser. Then try threading in from the other side with some 10-40 equivalent or cutting fluid. If it wont go then you will need to have it chased with the correct tool at your local bike shop.

 

jb it yo!

 

lol. im saving up for a full suspension right now. i would like to use this bike as a commuter to school. im too scared to take my giant to class.

im 100% sure the pedal im trying to thread on is for the right side. i tried to thread the pedal through the other side of that same crank arm and it went through fine. but there is not enough threading to make it all the way through. it did help some, but didn't fix the problem. i can get a tap and die set or heli-coil, but would just rather take it apart for the experience.

thanks all, you rock :bang:

 

I dont blame you....I was only referencing the crank arm anyways.

Plus NWA / Eazy E popped in my head so that came out.

 

For a decent set of cranks and a BB for a commuter, you can get away with spending 50 bucks. Dont sweat the BB too much, something like this will be Shimano splined, Isis splined, or square taper, all of which if you do need should be readily available BB's at the LBS. If it was a Very extra nice set of cranks that happens to be installed, some LBS<Mine, I know not supposed to plug> have threaded inserts they can install in the cranks. its 45 bucks a pop, so like I said we usually reserve that for costly cranks, or at race quickie repairs. It is considered a temporary fix, but when done properly they last along time.


New cranks are your best bet, there are many good options out there for cheap that will suffice more tha adequate for commuting

 

This happened to me a few weeks ago with my Stylo cranks on my SS bike. It depends what type of crankset you have and where it's stripped. Once you determine that you might get away with just a crank arm or you might have to replace the BB as well.

 

well since i would have to remove the crank, i will be needing a crank puller tool. im looking on price point for their crank pullers and they have three different ones. how do i know which one i will need?

link to pricepoint crank pullers: http://pricepoint.resultspage.com/search?p=Q&ts=custom&w=crank+puller&asug=&x=0&y=0

also since we're on the subject on cranks; does anybody here have a good link/read about cranks and what all that ISIS mumbo jumbo stuff is all about?

 

Good info here:

http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/

http://www.parktool.com/repair/byregion.asp?catid=59&imageField2.x=12&imageField2.y=11

 

Do not get either the Park CCP2 or CCP4 (for Shimano's Octalink and ISIS BBs). I had the CCP4 and the floating tip that goes into the crank arm is not very durable. Used it about 4 or 5 times pulling out some nasty azz stuck on crank arms and the tip split! #-o

Instead, go with this bad boy:

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/TL411B00-Cwp-6+Crank+Puller++Wrench.aspx

Only thing is you'll have to use a separate wrench to turn it. But to make up for that, a) it doesn't have a floating tip and b) good for Shimano's Octalink, ISIS AND square holed BBs...it's like getting the CCP2 and CCP4 for the price of one AND with a better design! :clap:

 

Helicoil that SOB. It's easy to do, cheap, and should be fine for a commuter.