Thanks Markus Any suggestion on how to open it ? My Parktool P-handles Hex wrench alone will not open it.
I struggled for years with my One-9 keeping the BB quite. One should not have to repeatedly do maintenance to keep it quite. Switched to a bike with swinging dropouts. My One-9 frame sits very lonely these days I have a plan for her as my internal geared, bob trailer getting groceries and going to the laundry mat bike. Just looking for cheap used parts to get her back together. Still lacking a old Reba with quick release, cheap front wheel and either White Industries or Middleburn square taper cranks (175 or 180mm). Dean
I thought they say that isis and square tapers don't work well with the Niner Biocentric? Something about them exerting outword force that works against the two halves and the tightening bolt.
No issues with the EBB so Far. Just lack of experience, I simply couldn't open it with my current set of tools. I think that the new design (I have the 2012 model) resolved most of the issues of the old one, but I'm yet to see it as I just got the bikes. Looks like I need to get one of those http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-1701-2...UJM6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1339289860&sr=8-2
It shouldn't be that difficult to unscrew that bolt, it should only have 160 in-lbs of torque. Unless, it was installed too tight. Harbor freight has all the tools you would need for cheap. But a breaker bar shouldn't be necessary...
Took it to my LBS due to lack of tools. And they didn't install it correctly so I lost the chain a few times during a ride today...mainly when I had to climb and put some pressure on the pedals. My wife was finally able to bit me to the finish line... I noticed that the mechanic install the EBB so the tension bolt is at 12. I believe it was at the 7 position initially. Any good advise/article on how to position up the EBB correctly ?
What pedal wrench is that ? The Allen is 6mm, how does it interface with a pedal wrench ? I have this one http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PW-...BK32/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1339307222&sr=8-2 and this one http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HCW...DGWA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1339307222&sr=8-6
I always positioned the EBB to get the most ground clearance...that bike has a low bottom bracket. I tightened the bolt over spec because I used anti-seize on the interface to keep it quite and at spec it would slip. I would use a crescent wrench on the end of an Allen wrench to get it loose. Dean
I left out the word "hex" pedal wrench. This is the one I have and use for crank bros. pedals and the Niner EBB. http://www.pedros.com/hexpedaldriver.htm I only had it slip once, when I had quickly made a change before a ride and must not have tightened it enough.
Thx Just ordered this one to complement my PT set. http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-HT-...=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1339371515&sr=1-1
finally, I was able to open the tension bolt with some make shift extender bar and adjust the tension of the chain. However when rotating the crank (bike on the stand) I can see that the tension is not uniform. At certain position the chain is pretty tight and on other crank positions the chain is a tad looser. Is that an issue or a normal behavior ?
It happens. Try loosening the chain ring bolts just enough to allow the chain ring to move under the tension caused by the tight spot, then rotate the cranks, see if you can monkey the thing around to be smoother. You could also change the indexing of the chain ring to the crank and you can also fiddle f%$# around with the rear cog depending on how yours is attached. Basically, just tinker with it and run the chain loose enough that you do not feel it. I would also like to add that this is one of my peeves.
Been on single speeds for over 5 years and never had that problem. After my first SS build I then used Kris King Hubs, Boone Chain Rings and either White Industries or Middleburn cranks. My first Single speed was a Kona unit and I hated that bike so it lasted a month before I dumped it. Had nothing but troubles with creaky crank bolts after that only use spline interface chainrings and dumped chainring bolts.
Thanks Dean. I positioned the tension bolt to 6 o'clock such that it provided the most ground clearance to the crank arms.
Another SS question... The bike came with an 18t cog. I replaced it with a 22T (just starting on SS and don't want to kill my knees before I build them up ) Since I couldn't open the EBB bolt and took it to my lbs, they added an extra link to the chain. Was it really required ? Or a simple positioning of the EBB would provide the room for the big cog ? I am asking because since then, my chain is dropping when I am attacking hills. I re-positioned the EBB last night with the chain pretty tight and went to a ride today, I dropped the chain twice. Finally the chain broke, Probably the additional link that was added by my LBS. BTW, what chain is recommended and how many links ? In the front I have the Alum. Niner 32T chain wheel and in the rear a steel 18T cog. My chain is SRAM PC-1
It is rare to change a cog and not have to add or remove a link. I have used multiple quick links before but now days I just use a chain for each cog and have 3 different chains I use. The chain should not be dropping, most likely problem is a slipping bottom bracket. Make a small mark on the frame and the EBB to see if it is slipping. Is the chain dropping off the front or the rear. Are you using a ramped front chainring? How straight is your chainline? How are you adjusting your chainline?
1. Not sure if it is dropping in the front or rear, but I believe it is the rear. 2. Front chain ring is not ramped - it is the Alum Niner single speed 32T Chain ring. http://ninerbikes.com/chainrings 3. Chain line pretty straight judging with my eyes 4. I use Surly spacers kit.
