Never thought I would be doing this!!

Good catch. It's only on the smaller frames on the S32.

I believe it's the geometry and your position on the bike.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I've heard, tri bikes are basically designed to go in a straight line. They're not set up to be very stable in the corners or for making quick side-to-side direction changes.

I also believe your seating position is a little further forward than on a traditional road bike. You tend to be seated in a way to get more leg extension in your pedal stroke.

When you're time-trialing/triathalon-ing, it's more about what's the max power you can sustain over the course.

 

Yeah, I'm more interested in a road bike.

Anyone have experience with the Specialized Allez models.

The Allez Double is listed at $800. Seems to be a good value.

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=32189

I know its hard to tell without test riding anything, I wil do that this weekend.

 

See if you can find a 2007 Allez Comp. It comes with Shimano 105 components. Between that and the Tiagra components, it's about the lowest shifting tiers you'd want to go if you're going to be riding on a regular basis. And if there are any 2007s left, you'll probably get a great deal that will put you in your price range.

The bike you're looking at has the Shimano Sora Gruppo . Look at the differences between that, the Shimano Tiagra Gruppo and the Shimano 105 Gruppo, ride them all, and you'll see what I'm talking about.

 

Yeah, sounds like he is a fairy now. :-k

 

Check out bikesdirect.com. They have some pretty good deals on bikes in that class and price. For instance they have a full carbon, dura ace, Motobecane for $1695 and a Ultegra version for $1295.

Jenson has a nice Colnogo with 105 for $1,200, a Scott Speedster with Ultegra for $1500, or a Look 555 Origin Ultegra for only $2,200.

 

This one is spec'd nicely
http://www.ibexbikes.com/Bikes/APR-6600-Details.html

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Frame:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6061-DB Aluminum w/ Carbon S/S[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Fork:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]EVO Carbon Fiber[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shifters:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano Ultegra STI - (3x10-speed)[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Front Derailleur:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ultegra[/FONT][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Rear Derailleur:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ultegra[/FONT][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Crankset:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ultegra[/FONT][/FONT] Triple[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Cassette:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano HG70 - 12-25T (10-spd)[/FONT][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Chain:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ultegra[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Brakes:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ultegra[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Levers:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ultegra[/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Wheelset:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Neuvation M28 Aero[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Tires:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Maxxis Xenith Hors Categorie 700c x 23[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Headset:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]FSA Orbit IS-2 Integrated Cartridge[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Cockpit Set:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ritchey Pro w/ UNO Carbon S/P[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Saddle[/FONT]:​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Ritchey Streem Pro[/FONT]

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Pedals:[/FONT]​

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Shimano R540 Clipless[/FONT]​

 

Skipp - the Allez models are fine for entry level. You may even be able to find a deal on an aluminum/carbon (carbon rear triangle) for a good deal at this point (07).

If you'll be doing tri's on it, don't get a Roubaix or Felt Z25. They're meant for all-day rides and comfort, not for doing crits or tri's.

The Tarmac's are bitchin, but they are higher-end race bikes.

A lot of MXers get Allez's and road ride for fitness. Or, so says our LBS guy

Ride as many models at a few shops as you can and pick the one in your price range that you like riding around on. Don't ride anything too far out of your price range, though. Trust me, you'll end up spending 2-3k

You probably don't want anything with too many components under 105 either. That's about equivalent to LX, but don't forget that it's a road bike. So, the components don't get as much dust, mud, etc. built up on them.

 

Allison has good advice. I would recommend riding at least 3-4 bikes, and highly recommend demoing a bike or two and doing a several hour ride. Some issues will not arise until you have been in the saddle for a few hours. Like neck, hand, back, shoulder issues.

Fit of a road bike is so much more important on a road bike. With a MTB you are constantly in different positions on the bike in order to keep your balance and keeping rear wheel traction. With a road bike you are in the same basic position for hours at a time. (Plus MTBer like to stop all the time ) Minor fit issues are not a big deal for short rides but add up after hours of pedaling. For me having my saddle 2 cm too far forward resulted in killer Achilles tendon pain that lasted for about a week after 70+ miles. After the professional fitter/physical therapist I saw moved my saddle back I was good to go. Longest single ride to date is 139 miles and no Achilles pain at all now.

 

Skippy, i ride Cervelo bikes for the road and tri's and you're more then welcome to try one of mine next time your in town.
I have the Soloist Carbon, but the Soloist Team would be in the price range, and they are very similar other then the frame. You could also try my full race P3 Carbon, a little out of the price range but a sweet tri rig to see if you like the feeling. Not very stable you sit entirely over the front wheel and no brakes on the aero but it is hella fast

 

I think this so true. Watch MTV cribs, lots of these guys and BMX'ers too have road bikes in their garage.

If comes down to which bike/which shop, I'd go with the shop that has the most road experience that can fit your correctly on your bike.

Goodluck,

C

 

Thanks for the tips Allison. I kind of knew right away to stay from the Roubaix as soon as I saw the pictures and the slack head angle.

It seems Specialized is zoning out of the Allez models. Theres only 2 models out for really cheap. Does this mean its old technology or something like that??

Would I be better off getting a Tarmac?

How is the Felt low end F series.
http://www.feltracing.com/products/product.asp?catid=18,19,26&pid=8562

I think it would be sweet to find a deal on the F5C.

 

Tarmac's are basically for people really serious about road racing, IMO.

The Allez is a great entry-level bike.

If you think you'll be signing up for week night crits or doing tri's, you may want to look into the Tarmac. For road commuting or a weekend ride here and there, the Allez would suit you fine.

I've never heard/read anything about Felt one way or the other. So, if you find a dealer with some good pricing go for it.

 

As important as fit is on a mountain bike, it is far more critical IMHO on a road bike. You move around a great deal on a mtb, but no so much on a road bike, so having everything just right can make or break you as a racer.

I was under the impression that most collegiate cycling teams usually find sponsors that will offer pretty attractive discounts on bikes, or at least frames and/or components and also accessories. So find out if your team has such an arrangement.

My daughter started out getting a frame from specialized which we built up ourselves and she raced for two years and did OK with. Last winter, we gave it a makeover and upgraded her drivetrain to Ultegra 10 speed from 105 9 speed triple, went to a shorter 700 series compact double crank (172.5mm from 175mm) some new wheels from Neuvation and a new stem and bars (Salsa "Poco"). We did the final fit at a shop near where I work.

She immediately went from a mid pack "B" to a 2nd place finish and then won the race after that, moved up to "A" and finished 12th at the NCAA RR finals in Kansas.

We expected to see some improvement, but nothing like that. I know the wheels helped, but the shorter cranks and having gearing that allowed her to more closely mirror that of the peloton around her and the improved bar fit was apparently more important than even we thought it would be.

The point is, that getting a competent shop to fit the bike to you is probably more important than exactly which bike you get.

That said, I see tons of the collegiate racers on Specialized, Felt, Giant and Trek bikes.

 

I believe the 4c & 5c were discontinued. They had a few left over in early '07, but I think they are all gone. Look at the F75. Great build for the price.

 

They are both completely different. BUT, don't get a triathlon bike unless you are really serious about doing nothing but triathlons, and even then, a Tri bike is shitty to train on, you would want a regular road bike for training if you are planning on doing any group rides or anything that involves turning, climbing or descending. A triathlon/time trial bike is bad at all of those.

A triathlon bike, geometry wise, shorter top tube, shorter steerer tube and a steeper seat tube. There is also more distance between the bottom bracket and the forks dropouts. This puts the bottom bracket further back, which will bring the riders torso back. You end up with more room between the seat and the bars, which allows you to get into the aero position more comfortable. Putting aero bars on a regular road bike is doable, but the longer top tube usualy makes the rider slide forward on the saddle, which is bad. You can get a seatpost to make up for this to a small extent, but I still don't think it's a good idea. I know that Triathlon bikes also make it easier on your legs to transition from the cycling to running, but I don't know how.

The entire point of a triathlon/time trial bike is to get into the aero position and go really fast in a straight line, and since triathlons usualy aren't draft legal, you need to cheat the wind as much as possible. In a road race, you've got to have a bike that handles snappy, turns sharp, offers different positions (getting into the drops to attack or sprint) etc. etc. Most beginner triathletes don't know what they hell they are doing on their Tri bike, anyways; Running a positive rise stem with 30 spacers that puts you in a completely upright position kind of defeats the purpose of an areo bike. If you know how to get into the right position on the hoods of your road bike, you can get into a very comfortable, aero position for quite a while.

Good luck on finding a bike, just make sure it's something comfortable, and DON'T skimp on shoes, saddle or bib shorts, because those are the thigns that will make you miserable.

Have fun out there!

 

i bought my 07 allez on sale for $630 at surf city cyclery in huntington beach. check their website, they have lots of 07 closeouts. this is my first roadbike, bought it to help train for mountainbiking. i love it and for the price i don't think you can beat it. i do 50 to 60 mile rides once or twice a week and to me the bike feels great, it's very comfortable. plus it's fun to pass guys on bikes that cost 4 times as much as yours. hope this helps you. later,chris

 

Being here on the ASU Tri and MTN bike team we have plenty of sponsors.

Everything from local running shops to Park Tools.

One of our sponsors is VeloVie. They are a local bike company here in Scottsdale. They sponsor our team and give us incredible deals on bikes.
http://www.velovie.com/

A couple guys on our team ride there road bikes and love them. Has anyone back in Cali heard of them? I have an appt later week to check out their bikes and take em for a ride.

I'm also going to ride a couple Felts that our local bike shop has.

 

Never heard of them. For those prices they are not making the frames themselves. Probably a re-labeled Giant.

 

Nothing to do with Giant. They are their own company. The frames are made in the same factory Felt's are in China.

 

I've heard varying reports on frame manufacturing... I think the vast majority of frames are all made at the same factory. Other smaller companies (Bikes Direct, etc.) basically have a catalogue of frames and they point to one and choose it. Could be Giant, could be Specialized, etc...