My Slopestyle Build - Questions

arent all the pro's like 5 ft tall?

 

Many of them do!!! And some of us non-pros as well. Roger and I have always run 165mm on our DH bikes.

 

Run 175 cranks and a 36 tooth big ring?

 

Is it just me, or does it look like DB needs the low upper crown assembly? The upper crown seems to be clamped too low on the stantions to me. I could be wrong though....

 

Seems to me that not many of those pro racers are riding SlopeStyles. I think most of the pro racers you refer race on DH frames with more than 6.5" of suspension (Fontana is an exception - it's not much of a DH course).

I do run 170s on my DH bike (M6). But hey, I'm just a newb. :lol:

 

Wouldn't they run longer cranks on a course that isn't much of a DH course, with a 1/4 mile sprint at the end?

I ran 170's on my old DHR's and my old Sunday because I raced Fontana a lot, but now I run 165's on my SS because it is ridden at slower speeds and through all kinds of various terrain.

I rode an M6 last weekend. pretty sick!

 

I was meant that most pros don't run 6.5" bikes when racing DH, except for Fontana.

But agreed...for sprinting, I'll take the 175s any day.

Back in the day, I used to run 165s on my old GT Lobo and later DHi, but after I tried using 170s on my DH bikes, I didn't like the feel of 165s any more - I feel like I'm pedaling a kid's bike. Any place where I'd hit pedals with 170 or 175 mm cranks, I'd probably hit them with 165s.

Yup...the M6 is where it's at these days. It seems as of late everyone is dumping their DHRs and Sundays for M6s.

But back to the SlopeStyle, I ride mine in all kinds of conditions, including the known Utah and AZ trails where pedal strikes could be common if you're not paying attention. That's mostly low speed stuff, but I still prefer the feel of the 175s. And then when Summit opens back up again, the SS is the absolute cheater (albeit legal) DH bike for that place! I don't get harassed with my single-crown fork, but those with duals, do.

 

How did you mount those avid codes calipers to the boxxers? did you purchase an addaptor?

 

My codes mounted up to the Boxxers right outta the box.

And I feel ya on the 165 crank arms. I'm 6' and they DO feel like you're riding a bmx bike! 170's fine for the SS. Perfect combo of spin and torque. Hard to power slowly over stuff (ie: in trouble) with the shorter cranks.

The dope move would be opt for the M6 "new" dropouts in 135 spacing. Moves the rear end up 1/2" on the back and the crank up a quarter. Steepens the head angle a bit for BIG forks. But they're $300 from Intense. I just spent all my money on an M6 this spring.

 

What new dropouts are you referring to? The "Slackers" lower the BB and slacken the head angle. The standard 135/150 mm dropouts also lower the BB and slacken the HA.

My vote is to leave the M6 exactly how it comes. :lol: Well... I wouldn't mind getting a set of the standard 150 mm dropouts (originally equipped on the early M6s and some M3s) to lower the BB and further slacken the head angle.

 

Looks like everything is there to me. The upper crown drops like that because he has the tall crown for long head tubes.

 

but it looks like he could use the flat crown....

 

Yes, he can, but he bought it used so he would have to buy the short crown. I'm not sure if it would make much of a tangible difference to be worth the added cost. I was merely addressing Ken's comment.

Now leave me alone. Haven't you had your fill of heckling me in the other threads? 8-[

 

a better picture for those much smarter than i in that department

 

It is grabbing the stantions a little low... probably wont hurt anything.... but not *quite* as strong that way.

not hecklin ya... just guiding ya

 

You probably do need a flat crown. Your drop crown will hit your top tube if you crash hard enough. The rubber stoppers probably aren't enough all the time.

 

but I didn't say that the crown is missing.... Just said that it looks like it should have the low or the flat crown. It might help him get the A-C height lower for better geo.

 

Yea, I know the further apart you can get the crowns the stronger/stiffer the assembly will be, but I'm not sure the difference will be tangible for this particular application. We are talking about DavidB here.

What it boils down to is that David has grossly over estimated the length of his ummm head tube. That's ok David. I lot of guys like to think that their tubes are a lot longer than they really are. 8-[ :lol:

 

My bike was shipped with dropouts that placed the rear axle relative to the frame 1/2" higher than the newer style dropouts I now have in place. I broke the rear derailleur hangar on my second ride by clipping a pedal and falling in a "bad place" on the Tunnel trail. I happened to be at Intense a day later and the "NEW" dropouts have the words "M6" and "150" (or "135") etched into the backside. They move the axle placement 1/2" lower relative to the frame. BB (at approx. 1/2 way to front) goes up about 1/4", head tube slightly steeper.
I like fewer pedal clips and a steeper head angle (relative to stock M6). But that's just me. Intense will sell you those "lower" & " older" dropouts. Might be cheaper through a shop you know though. Or racer discount.

 

#-o Sorry, I misread your initial post. You are correct. He can use the standard/low upper crown. It won't drop the A-C measurement though.