My Slopestyle Build - Questions

What you still need?

 

seatpost (31.6), low rise non cf bars, headset, RD, chainguide, pedals and a 203 rotor

 

i have a 203 hayes rotor

 

The Cane Creek you mention is a good option. On my M6 I'm running the e.Thirteen reducer cups and a Cane Creek IS headset.

I like the e.Thirteen guides. The new SRS+ and soon-to-ship LG1+ look sweet. If you go with the previous model SRS or LG1, you will need the wide backplate version to clear the dropped chainstay.

The spring rate calculators like the one on TF Tuned are a good start, but you may have to experiment a bit. The TF calculator recommended a 250lb spring for CB, but that ended up being too soft. She got the right amount of sag, but needed 3-4 turns of preload. She has since moved up to a 300lb spring and says the bike has a better balance front to rear, and doesn't blow through the travel in the back any longer. Getting the sag right is really important on the VPP bikes.

I think I've got some lo-rise Sunline bars. I've also got a ton of rotors, shimano, hayes, avid, etc. Let me know what you need.

 

The very important piece of advice is forgotten by so many people when using the SRS or LG1 on an SS. I just thought it should be mentioned again.

David, I know you're thinking of going with a single-ring setup, but don't discount the dual ring setup. Not only was that required at Snow Summit (they actually say three rings are required, but let duals go by), but it really does make the bike more useful. If you want really good chain retention with a double, go with an E13 DRS. I've been very happy with the one on my SS, and it allows me to ride my SS on the gnar DH without fear of the chain going anywhere. The front derailleur and dual rings allows me to climb the SS anywhere I've taken it. Although some recommend the Blackspire Stinger for dual-ring applications, I tried it briefly and found it's chain retention ability to be horrible, and I went back to the DRS.

Although I've suggested it many, many times before, I strongly recommend a single-crown fork with an axle to crown height of about 545 mm (Fox 36 or Lyrik) and a flush headset (the CC Double is very nice).

You may want to hold off on the bars until you figure out what fork you're going to run. My SS has tall bars, whereas my M6 has short rise bars - it all depends on front end height as a result of fork height.

 

Thanks Lee, I'm still trying to wrap my head around different variations of chain guides

nothing's been bought yet, but as the HA gets slackened out, wouldn't i want to keep my front end down more with a flush headset + low bars? :?:

speaking of, still looking at other options of flush headsets no matter what bars/fork I run.

 

On my SS I have a Marzochi 66 and it's plenty fine for anything I've thrown at it. I'd second the dual chainring. I have a single and if money permitted I'd make a double in a heart beat. Just more versatile. Good luck with the build, I'm sure you'll have a blast once your on it. I don't ride the Bottlerocket often but when I do I have some serious fun!

 

Lyrik... Lyrik!!!! just say no to boxxers

 

single crown, double crown is retarded for most people on a SS, if you wanted a double crown you should have bought a socom with a 40

 

you're right, i should have bought a socom off CL for that same price....oh wait


anyone have any problems with DT 5.1 setup as tubeless for this setup? laced to hopes, but with what spokes? dt comps?

 

other than being expensive... the 5.1 tubeless kit is supposedly pretty nice

 

you could always see if tani will trade you a SS for a socom :lol:

I don't think 5.1's will be a big problem. denmo and roger both run them and they don't destroy wheels. the heavier gauge dt comps would be what I'd go with as well. naturally, they won't be as durable as some other rims (mavic 823/729), but you're saving almost a pound of rotating weight. also, I don't see any wheel bending hucks in your future (I may be wrong though :?

another option, if you can live with a non-UST rim is something like mavic 721. a bit beefier, but still lighter than an 823 oor 729 setup.

 

Jeff (jsims) uses them on his M6 and also used them on his Socom before that.

I also use those rims but not tubeless.

More that I think about it Lee uses those rims too

 

if you find a deal, or find someone that will give a qty discount on 5.1 tubeless kits, let me know... there are a few of us who need to convert

 

The DT 5.1 rims with the DT UST kit rocks! For my SS DH setup, I use Maxxis UST 2.5" tires, but for my AM setup, I use tires and tubes (much lighter).

I tried a set of Stans Flows, and those suck ass big time. A total waste (and the rim was totally wasted in 20 minutes of ride time).

Yeah, Competition spokes.

 

I could be interested too maybe:?:

 

http://www.socaltrailriders.org/forum/general-discussion/17304-dt-swiss-tubeless-conversion-kit.html

about the dt kit....

 

Thread hi-jack in progress.

Q-ball suggested I try maxxis rim strips with my 5.1's as I wanted to go tubeless, but not spend the money on the DT tubeless set-up. The rim strip was 5 bucks. I put the rim strip in, two scoops of Stans and used my hand pump to inflate the tire. Sealed almost immedately and no problems to date.

Now back to your regularly scheduled SS build questions!!!!!!

 

"F-ing interesting man"

 

Hey, your comments are on topic! No worries!

FYI, there is a difference in sealing the tire vs. locking the tire to the rim bead. With normal rims strips, the tire isn't locked well to the 5.1 rim bead, but the contoured DT strip locks the tire in very well, which allows for lower pressure operation without burping.