This shock came on my Trek 6700 and the RockShox website isn't much help since it doesn't list the SL model. I am wanting to insert a stiffer spring which i think is the Recon Fixed Spring Black 11.4015.122.000. Can anybody confirm this is the correct spring? I've also only got about 15hrs ride time on it. Do I need the seal kit (which one would i get anyways?)? I've got no problem getting a kit just in case, but, again which one? Do I only need a Rockshox 32mm version like this kit from Jenson's or the EuroForkSeals version which i believe Jenson's also carries? I am thinking about the bike maintenance clinic and would like to have all the parts i need before going. Any help for a noob?
Im not sure about the seal kit, but You can give mike a call tomorrow sometime and ask him directly! 714.879.8310 hope this helps a bit.
What year fork do you have and are you sure its a coil shock and not an air shock? You don't need seals to change a spring but depending how long you have been riding on the fork it may be worth it to change oil and replace seals.
Its on a 2010 Trek 6700. All Trek website has about it is "RockShox Recon SL Solo Air w/air spring, rebound, TurnKey lockout, alloy steerer, 100mm" . It doesn't have an air valve to pump it and the shop i bought the bike from said it was a spring. Thats the problem with it, no info on Rockshox website about this specific model. Regarding the seals, only about 15hrs ride time. I would just hate to tear down and have a torn seal without a replacement.
Rock shox may not have much info for a couple reasons they only show the current versions and they don't always list OEM versions of forks. I would say the part you need is 11.4015.437.100 but I would verify with the shop you order spring from. If you only have about 15 hours you don't need to change fluids, so you wont need a seal kit, you can change the spring without dropping the lowers.
Then you don't need a heavier spring......it is not a coil sprung fork. All you have to do is increase the air pressure.....there should be a chart on the back of the fork with the PSI recomendation.s Edit: Just checked the Trek website.....looks like they spec'd the 6700 Disc with both the coil and the air fork.
If there is a schrader valve on the top of the left upper it's an air fork. If not it's a coil spring
It should be pretty obvious if it's air vs coil. An air fork will have a cap on the top that says "Air" and a coil will just be a flat cap that you would need a socket wrench to undo. If you can turn the cap and it says "Preload" its also coil. By now I'm sure you've figured it out but good luck anyways Also the black spring is xtra-firm, you might want to try the blue (firm) first. Rockshox springs seem to be over-sprung at least in my experience.
Yes it has the preload adjuster. I may just need to take out the spring to see which it came with stock. How would i know though? Are the springs colored or just a mark? I only know it seems a bit too squishy for me even with full preload.
If you take out the spring there will be sort of a painted on stripe on the side of the spring. Hard to miss. Red is stock, blue is firm, black is extra-firm.
After more research, it seems i will need to unscrew the bolt on the spring side of the fork to release the spring because its not simply pulling out after unscrewing from the top. If i need to do this (unscrew 3-4 turns and tap to free the spring), am i going to loose oil? Could i keep the oil in the lower leg by turning the fork upside down to drop the spring out? I really don't want to have to buy oil yet just to replace the 6ml of 15wt. Stupid youtube video shows the preload adjuster top just coming right out easily and mine isn't doing that. Most of the other instructions i have found start with removing the lower legs. Is removing the lower leg really necessary for just replacing the spring?
You should be able to pull it out the top. You may have to remove the preload adjuster, then with a 24mm( thats what most RS use) socket remove the top plug. You should be able to compress suspension slowly and get any spacer on top then grab the spring and remove it. I have never seen just a spring swap instructions they are just full service instructions so thats why you always see the lowers removed. If not come on Wed and someone can give you a hand.
I have unscrewed the 24mm top plug completely and at the final point it "binds". Sort of like it won't unscrew anymore and i can't pull it out. Thats why i thought maybe its connected to the bolt at the bottom. Maybe more force will free it up. I just don't want to "break" it free. If i can't get it i may try to make it to the maintenence meet. Although, with the wife due in 2 week, not sure thats going to fly.
It shouldn't bind, the bolt on the bottom connects to the spring shaft. Look at page 36 http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/TM_MY10.pdf
Maybe i didn't press down firmly enough when loosening it. I'll check again tonight for a dry run to see if i can get the spring cap off. Last time it would bind, sort of like a watch wound up too tight and couldn't lift it off. I'll let you know if i'm just wackadoodle and it comes right out.
YAY! I got it the spring cap off. Seems it was making a really good seal with the grease and the preload adjuster portion. Now my next problem... What type of grease do i need for the new spring? Can i use Green Grease (i use this for all my threads) ? Or do i need a special grease?
Aside from just describing it as "grease" in the pdf, it does list a "GREASE (SUSPENSION OIL SOLUBLE)" & "i-RIDE GREASE (Maxima SG-920)". I can't find i-ride grease:?:. And Green Grease is supposed to be very waterproof, synthetic (shouldn't deteriorate bushings), high heat (up to 500F), as well as petroleum and lithium compatible. Besides, its what i have in the garage. I will like to add that the pdf also lists a very important tool for all service actions... a frosty cold beverage. I got that one covered, too:beer:.
An update. Found out that i had to unscrew the rod that extends from the spring to the bottom of the lower leg to remove the old spring. I was worried since i didn't have any replacement oil in case it leaked at this point. I layed the bike on it side to keep the fork parallel to the ground to unscrew and tap the screw to dislodge the spring. No oil. Good. Pulled out the spring and saw red markings. Medium as i thought. Bought the 11.4015.437.100 (thnx mfoga) x-firm spring. Here's what i got... Greased up the new spring with Green Grease and inserted it. Lined up with the screw on the lower leg (still no oil leaking) and screwed in. Uprighted the bike and pulled up on my handlebars while dropping down the lower legs. Greased the threads & bushing on the preload cover and screwed in while pushing down by hand first to ensure not to crossthread. Locked it down. Spings and bearings back in and screwed the preload knob down. Set up with 2 clicks preload and tested it out. Still no oil leaking and obviously firmer even compared to full preload on the medium spring. All done. BTW, my Recon SL was more accurately like the instructions for Coil U-Turn spring service (Lyrik - Pike 327, 351, 409, 426, 454 - Recon 327, 335, 351) on pg.39 of http://www.sram.com/_media/pdf/rockshox/dealers/TM_MY10.pdf . Only problem is... as you can see in the photo, i was sent a snap ring. I didn't see this piece on the spring i took out, so, i didn't put it on the replacement. Not really sure what its for. Maybe if i did a more thorough tear down i would have needed it. Being 165-175, the medium was just too spongy. Thank you all again for the assistance:beer:. Hope to field test tomorrow. So far, feels much more responsive to me:bang:.
