How I Built My Own MTB Light

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by BrewMaster, Dec 1, 2007.

  1. BrewMaster

    BrewMaster Thirsty

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    Both of those data sheets are way over my head. Thanks though.

    If you could bring a male-female plug to the loop next Thursday for me to try, that would be awesome. Thanks.
     
  2. mcgyver0302

    mcgyver0302 Life behind bars

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    Deans... definitely Deans... they won't come apart on you while you're mashing 40+ on those night downhill sessions... right Dino? And thanks for the mention of Ford electronics. I have been going to them since I was nine, great people. Just my .02\\:D/
     
  3. 92se-r

    92se-r Active Member

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    None of these low voltage detectors are specific for any sort of battery. They say they are meant for Lithium Ion batteries, because they are usually what are used in 3.3V applications. That is why they are only rated up to 6V. These would not work for your batteries.

    What I would recommend is use a LM317 or equivalent linear regulator for a regulated 5V output or something. Then use a LM139 comparator powered off this regulated output. Then use a voltage divider to set your reference voltage so that when your battery voltage dips below a certain voltage, it trips the comparator and drives a MOSFET to turn on a buzzer. That is what I am going to do on my personal light I'm building. There is no way you will even notice a little LED that turns on when your battery voltage is low while you are riding. I'm going to have a 100db piezo buzzer that I can manually override so I don't have to listen to it for the rest of the ride, but I know that I've got about 30-45 minutes of battery life left.

    It only adds about 10 small parts that you could easily package.



     
  4. OffRoadie

    OffRoadie Roadie in Exile

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    You're right, I didn't notice the 6V supply maximum. However, the second one I posted shows that you can use it with voltages higher than 6V, if you put a resister into Vcc. Application shows an example with a 48V supply.
     
  5. Schecky

    Schecky SoCalMTBubbs

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  6. BrewMaster

    BrewMaster Thirsty

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    When you do this, can you please post up the parts and design you use? I may try to copy your work. Thanks.

    Dude, these Cree LEDs look awesome!

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1302

    http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.2394

    Perhaps I will change LEDs on my helmet mount light that I will build soon.
     
  7. tkblazer

    tkblazer Zack Attack

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  8. Fired Yo Momma

    Fired Yo Momma Kenny Powers!!!

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    First of all cold job BrewM for your lights look good. You have inspired me, really!

    Anyways you can also get parts at Mar Vac Electronics in Costa Mesa or Ford Electronics, I think they are in Anaheim or Fullerton.
     
  9. BrewMaster

    BrewMaster Thirsty

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  10. spookydave

    spookydave A little dab will do me

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    Hey Brewmaster, I can help you out on a housing.
    I have a few cutting tools over here.
     
  11. stjunkie

    stjunkie New Member

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    Anybody need PCB's

    Just thought I'd throw this out there for the STR DIY'ers. I have access to a PCB cutter at work and could make custom PCB's if you need them. I can only do double sidded copper boards with unplatted via holes. I would just need a hand drawn sketch or a .dxf file to make them. I have a bunch of different materials but the most common are .047 and .062 polyimide.
     
  12. BrewMaster

    BrewMaster Thirsty

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    Where are you located Dave?

    At this rate, we may have STR lights on sale before we get another batch of jerseys made!
     
  13. tkblazer

    tkblazer Zack Attack

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    i was waiting on you machinist bubbs to come out of the wood work...

    sam, that design is so simple yet seems to work really well for the original designer..
     
  14. spookydave

    spookydave A little dab will do me

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    My shop is in Placentia.
    I've been thinking about doing a run of lights for awhile now. Now with STJunky with the PC board hook up I bet we could really make something nice.
     
  15. tkblazer

    tkblazer Zack Attack

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    i'll post up when i am about to make an order on led's and crap, if people are interested they can PM me when the time comes to save on shipping.
     
  16. BrewMaster

    BrewMaster Thirsty

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    Good idea. I'd be in to save on shipping.

    I think my next light is going to have 3 Cree LEDs on it. I will definitely use a wired buckpuck next time instead of trying to solder it all in such a small space.

    This guy's DIY site is pretty thorough. I may have to copy his design with my own modifications.
     
  17. spookydave

    spookydave A little dab will do me

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    what about making the housings round kinda like these?
    http://www.ayup.com.au/colours.html
    Could do doubles, tripples and quads. Maybe a tripple (flood-spot-flood) on the bars with a double (spot - spot) on the lid.
    Maybe mount the batts and buckpuck in a waterbottle and have some small switches on the bar.
     
  18. tkblazer

    tkblazer Zack Attack

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    that would be sweet dave, i'll have to look up the thread where this guy milled his own round housing.
     
  19. spookydave

    spookydave A little dab will do me

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    well what it comes down to is how big the leds are with the optics and all that jazz.
    my cnc lathe make parts using round stock 1.25" or smaller. I could do something on the mill but would have to stand there for each part. On the lathe it would drop off housings complete with out me having to stand there until the material runs out.

    I have not looked into it to much but the Cree delios looked like they were around 1" square. Is there any round ones that are any good? I'm sure there are.
     
  20. tkblazer

    tkblazer Zack Attack

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    dave, the leds are usually mounted to a round board thingy... i dunno wtf its called.. anyhow you can order round optics for the led

    http://www.led-spot.com/p_round.shtml

    here is the housing i was talking about, guess the bubb made it on a lathe
     

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