Going Tubeless

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by natexlb, Nov 4, 2008.

  1. perrygeo

    perrygeo New Member

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    The stans kit on a normal rim works great ... once you get it set up. It can be a pain in the ass to seat your rim bead with soap, resolve any leaks, etc (depending on the rim/tire combo). It is a process. On the flip side, you get almost no flats so you only have go through it every so often when your tires need swapping.

    I've had excellent luck using Stans rims and "tubeless ready" tires - far less hassle than the conversion kit IMO. I just throw the tire on, dump in the goo and air up with a floor pump.
     
  2. epicriderat

    epicriderat New Member

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    I am using standard Kenda Nevegals on a Bontrager tubeless wheelset and they work great. First try they beaded up and have not leaked or burped in 2 months of riding.
     
  3. DISCO

    DISCO Banned

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    Another gooey thread? UGH.

    UST tires and rims are designed to work with out a tube. Standard hook bead tires and rims will never be air tight no matter how much slop you put in, worse some tires will break down when they get soggy from said slop. It is dangerous and silly to use the wrong equipment, it's like trying to run a superlight 1.95 inner tube in a 2.5 DH High volume tire. Sure it may work for a while but try and make a patch stick when you flat and it stretches out:?:. No matter what the "magic bean" sales people say you will get a headache trying to outsmart a two dollar inner tube. It is possible to have success without tubes but not with what you are riding (skinny mavics and regular tires), gonna have to pay to play this came.

    Here are the facts that work.

    1. Get a wide rim (sun single track/sos is good) so that the tire cannot roll over it's self.

    2. Use a car valve stem in a Schrader size hole, they work fine on the freeway and are adequate here more important the removable core makes getting the goo in a snap.

    3. Seal the spoke bed COMPLETELY!! make sure the rim joint is welded or seal it with epoxy first, next make sure the valve stem is snug the rubber should seal fine without a grommet. Tape is only as good as it's adhesive but if you cant afford the rim strips they developed for this purpose two wraps of high quality (3M) strapping or clear duct tape will hold for years while remaining impervious to goo saturation, (side note you will NEVER get all the adhesive off the rim).

    4. Sealant, Bontrager super juice is at the top of the heap, thoroughly tested and designed to do just this. Slime and Stan's in my experience always lose a few PSI a day and will not typically last a week before being unrideable.

    5. Tire selection; it sounds dumb but a tire that is designed to hold air will work better than one made to contain a bladder of air. There are impermeable layers built in versus a wicker basket weave not to mention the bead is reinforced and extends down into the rim channel to adequately cover both sides of the highest potential leak (burp) source.

    In closing you will need to completely change your wheels/tires to successfully make it happen. Go ahead and throw your money away on all the late night infomercial sales tactics out there but do remember "your results may vary".:lol:
     
  4. Zippo

    Zippo Pow Wow!

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    It was about 5 years ago, Racing Ralphs on Velocity VXC rims, and I was experimenting a bit with yellow spoke tape AND a rim strip. The rim strip was too much for the bead to stay seated I think, and it burped, but at 40psi when it burped it blew. Definitely scary. I pulled the rim strip out, rebuilt the wheel, and then ran Stans in it with just the spoke tape at 32-35psi and all was well.

    BTW - if you have specific questions or concerns, shoot notubes an email - great customer service.
     
  5. scottie QH

    scottie QH New Member

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    I have ridden tubes and no tubes .....ocasional flat (cactus spines) with tubes but in cornering at higher speeds they seem to feel better than the no tubes .:?:

    The no tubes (stans ztr rim) I'm using are light weight system and over all good .....if you hit the rear tire hard after a drop you will burp the tire (stans sparays out , loss of tuire pressure ) but can keep going....I have 5 bikes 1 with no tubes stans ztr set up and 4 with tubes ....I won't convert the tubes to no tubes and the no tubes rear tire I will add a tube to it cause I personally don't like the feel on cornering and really don't like the tire burping ....hey it's one of those things where some love em and some don't .

    I recommend no tubes up front and tubes on the rear wheel .;)
     
  6. Silver

    Silver New Member

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    Have you tried airing up the rear tire a little? If you're burping every time you land a drop, you're running the pressure too low.
     
  7. Drop D

    Drop D New Member

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    anyone running ghetto tubeless on Azonic Outlaws with Maxxis high rollers 2.7?
    -Why I ask this question?: I'm currently on EDD! :lol:
     
  8. UPSed

    UPSed SPECIALizED

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    Agreed. I just converted my Outlaws using the Stans freeride kit with 2.35 and 2.5 Nevegals. I've always gotten away with low pressures for my size so my biggest benefit will be flat protection. If you decide to go this route watch the video and most of all be patient.
     

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