Chris King Headset Installation

Did this install a few days ago and I wanted to document it for those people who are interested in trying to do this install themselves. The entire install took about 30 minutes, with snapping pics, and was very straight forward.

Before you start tearing your bike apart, be sure to have the proper tools. A solid bike stand is a must when it comes to bike building. Hanging your bike seat off a ledge or trying to work on it upside-down can be a pain in the butt over time.



Next up on the tool list is a Park Tools Head Tube Reaming and Facing Set, Head Cup Remover, Crank Brothers Multi-Tool and a solid Hammer.



Here is the CK headset in luscious green ready for installation.



Here is a before shot of the old Cane Creek headset. Note, I already had the green cap in place before even purchasing the headset. A little foreshadowing maybe...



Step one: Remove the headset top cap with your multi-tool.



Step two: Remove your front wheel for ease of installation.



Step three: Remove your stem and bars from the frame. Most head tubes uses spacers above or below your stem so please be aware of their original position. You can lay your bars and stem over your bikes top tube or in any safe position while you continue your installation.





Step four: Remove your fork carefully keeping the head tube spacers in mind. I recommend keeping them all together in order with a zip tie. Remember, your front brake is attached to your fork which is attached to your bars.



Step five: Remove the old head set spacers allowing access to the press frame races. Also, remove any loose spacers or washers. If you are removing a Cane Creek headset you will notice they came with 2 external bearing rings whereas the CK headset has internal built bearings.



Step six: Install the Head Cup Remover with small side first upward through the bottom of the headset cups. Squeeze sides of prongs and pull tool fully into head tube. Do not press with hand on bottom of tool, as prongs will close and pinch flesh. A clicking sound will be heard as tool engages head tube cup.



Step seven: Use a hammer at end of Head Cup Remover and drive cup from head tube. Use care as cup approaches end of tube, as tool may fall to ground on last blow of the hammer.



Step eight: Remove the bottom cap/pressed frame race.



Step nine: Repeast steps six and seven reversing the direction of the Head Cup Remover to remove the top cap/pressed frame race.







Here are two images of the frame shown with no headset in place and also how the top and bottom half of the CK headset will go in.





Step ten: Slide the center shaft of the Park Tool Headset Press through the frame with CK upper and lower press frame races in place.



Step eleven: Attach the lower portion of the press on to the shaft. It will slide into place depending upon the length of your head tube. Notice the flat sides to the most lower portion of the press tube. You will need to attach a wrench to this while twisting the handle down pressing both races in place.



Both upper and lower races should now be in place.



Step twelve: Slide your fork through your head tube carefully. For new installations you will need to need to press the crown race onto the fork. We did not need to include this step as the appropriate crown race was already attached to the fork.



Step thirteen: Slide your adjusting race on to the fork. Be sure to include the spacers you previously removed when removing your stem.



Step fourteen: Before attaching your top cap, install your wheel to the fork and place your bike on the ground. This will make it easier to line up your bars, stem and wheel. Once the wheel and stem is lined up, tighten the top cap down (not super tight) and make sure there is no movement in your headset. When you are satisfied everything is properly in place, tighten down your stem. We removed our top cap to double-check that everything was snug, then tightened it back down in place.



After a few rides re-check the tighten on your new headset. All moving parts have a tendency

 

I didn't see any grease applied? HMMMM:-k

That could be a recipe for a creek attack or a future removal difficulty.
Or possible no problem at all.

I always clean the heat tube with rubbing alcohol and grease the ht before installing. Anti-seize works well too.

This not only dampens the creak potential but it makes removal much cleaner and easier.
This especially useful for people who might change frames every year.


BTW Nice bike and nice upgrade on the head set.

 

ppsshh, yeah, i guess you could do it the "proper" way

good job, good instructions :beer:

dont even want to know how much the proper tools cost though

 

can they do a 1.5 headset??? if so, may i borrow it?

 

I saw a headtube reamer listed, but did not see it used.


Good step by step install though


I dont grease my headsets either, clean with degreaser, wipe down with alcohol, and install slow and smooth. Never had a headset creak on my personal bikes.

 

This was my second install of this type of headset and Chris King said there is no need for greasing anything.

I do agree with the cleaning, which I did do. I just forgot to mention it in the write up. Guess I may need to make a quick edit. Thanks

 

you quoting/talking to me? you know i only have one proper tool

 

I believe it does, I will have to double check. If it does you are more than welcome to it. It's in jordanrealms garage, since we do all work on our bikes there. I'm sure Jordan wouldnt mind if you wanted to come by and use it.

 

Chris King recommends having the head tube reamed and faced, and it's a good idea to check the head tube to make sure it's within tolerances. Better frames, like the Ellsworth, should be good to go 'as delivered.'

What handlebars are those, and how do you like them? Edit: Never mind, I just realized whose bike I was looking at...I'll ask Mr. Jordansrealm about the bars.

 

Kevin those are Sunline V1 Carbon bars I got at The Path. They are low rise bars and I think around 28 wide. I love them!

http://www.bikebling.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Sunline-V-CarbonBar

 

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I already had a CK base plate on my fork. I believe Chris used the multi-tool to show you that you dont always need fancy tools to do this install. I have read mixed reviews of grease on headsets but I do value your opinion Lee I know u know ur stuff. I am sure he will answer more.

 

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You know before I hit SUBMIT on my last post to you I was thinking you know Lee is gonna say why you expensive Park Tools and a cheap multi-tool. lol

I guess he just used what he had and really the difference between using a nice hex handle tool and the multi-tool makes no difference. Did both get the job done just as good? Yup. Both have the ability to loosen and tighten the bolts properly.

I actually have the 3-way Park hex wrench sitting about 1 foot from my bike where he did the install. He just chose to use his tool for one reason or another. So, the "good" tool was there!

 

I anti scuff washer is also is also known as the anti creak washer.

Great observation Lee I missed that.:lol:

Sorry to sound like a nit picker I am just trying to help our rather large family create some professional bike mechanic habits.

I have built 100s if not 1000's of bikes as well as wrenched for factory team riders.

I have experienced some strange things over the years.

I have been in the shops and garages where Grafton,Cook quality products, and helped with the development of many other products like Kooka ,GT , Bulls eye, TAG,Kore,Tioga, Rase, some date as far back as 1989.

I have seen the changes and upgrades on the products over time. I have seen the assembly methods that have stood up to the test of time also.
I have also ran vibration tests on many products to test how well they hold. Grease ,Loctite, Bondex and several OEM 3M product for holding hardware together and a manufacturer level.

How you like to assemble bikes is always your preference. :?:

All opinions are do to change from experience I hope all your experiences are pleasant.

 

Picture no worky Jason.


Hey you gonna be at Fontana for the Annual???

 

I might hit the Fontana. :?: Sorry I don't do Anal.:lol:



I will have to see where my work takes me. Or should I say lack of work.:-k


I didn't post any pictures.

 

Something funky with the server tonight? Seeing some funky typos that are correcting themselves later.....Weird stuff.

 

I assume the multi-tool is kept in your camelbak. The whole point in having a multi-tool is for emergency on trail repairs. Not for garage use. The reason being is tools get worn out, especially the hex wrenches. The last thing you want is your worn out multi tool stripping bolts on a trail. Keep your bag tools and garage tools separate. They should never be mixed or you will find that the worn tools screw you when you need them most.

 

I think that the head set installation review was nice. You did a great job either way. I think everyone should learn more about installing headsets.
It will help everyone know how to adjust them correctly also.

As far as tools go the one that works correctly is the one for the job.

It is nice to have the expensive pro level tools but you don't need them.