fox springs show the actual stroke rating of the spring (i.e. 3.25" until it coil locks), as opposed to other manufacturers, who label their springs according to the stroke of shock that they are designed for. for fox, a 2.25" shock needs a 2.35" spring, a 2.5 needs a 2.75" (iirc), and the 3.0" needs a 3.25" spring. for others, they just label it the same as the shock and add the extra travel in anyway. so, use the 3" stroke from either company and you should be good. the 3.5" stroke only raelly applies to like an M6 spring.
I bet those springs are for 3" stroke and will work. Fox uses a different spring length I cant remember exactly what it was but the spring length number is longer then stroke but other manufactures use the stroke length for sizing spring length. (i.e. on my Aline the Marz shock had a 3" spring and 3" stroke but the fox has 3.25" spring and 3"stroke)Looking at Diverse it shows its a 3" travel spring mean so that should be what you want.
Call them then, but I am pretty sure that the 3" is what you need. If not that would mean they dont have a spring for a single Fox shock as all the shocks are longer then what they they have based on the way fox measures there springs.
I ordered the Diverse 300#x3.0:beer: If I crash it will be because of the 8.5mm spring difference not because of rider error
I am repeating here, FOX SPRINGS are not longer than other shocks, they are just labeled different. They label there shocks by max stroke of the spring, not the shock they are intended for. Its pretty simple, if you have a 3 in stroke shock, you get a spring from fox that is more than 3 in stroke label as long as it fits on the shock. Fox includes the preload amount on there listing when they label there springs. Part of the reasoning behind this, is fox likes to limit how many springs they have to keep in stock. For instance, a 2.5 stroke shock, and a 2.75 in stroke use the same spring. IE, both use a spring labeled 2.8 in stroke. Bry has it close, his numbers are off, but thats the basic idea. Other Manf's list what shock stroke the the spring is intended to be on, then they tell you how many turns of preload you can put on it. Again its pretty simple. As far as the 3.0 or 3.5 from obtainiam or from RCS, both will work for your shock Vince, but the 3.0 would be what is considered proper.
talk to hugh about the spokes, I'm pretty sure he uses them on most of his builds. light, strong, a little bladed iirc. they are expensive though. I'd just go with DT double butted. half the price, but only a 100g difference.
yeah, 100g, but I'd still go with the cheaper spokes on the DH bike. seeing as you aren't just going to be racing on it, I'd go for the heavier/easier to replace setup. I'd cry if I caught a branch or something and trashed a wheel of $3 spokes. then again, since they're bladed you can build them with NO windup, so they'll end up being very well built if you get even tension around the wheel, and they shouldn't change too much with break in :-k
Looks like I might go W/ saint breaks:?: I would like Formula Oro Puro but I can't find a pair @ a good price:?:
just do the saints, you won't regret it. for hard DH, the oro's do lack power. I ran K24's on the reign for awhile, and there was a noticeable increase in power, modulation, and fade resistance going to the saints. not to say that the oro skimps in any of those, but the saints are that much better.
Size doesnt mean stronger, tensile strength and yield need to be included in this calculation.Butted is superior, if tensile strength is too high and no yiield you have a high strung wheel which is brittle.:-k
Drake, this arguement has been going on forever, and some people will never quite get it. Oddly, those same people who are breaking straight 14-gauge spokes insist that they break because they are hard on wheels, and not that the wheels weren't designed and built as well as they could have. Moreover, proper tension is so often been ignored.
