Why are dh/fr bikes not good for climbing, other than weight?

Are downhill/ freeride bikes not good for climbing not only because of their weight, but also because of their geometry, and the way you are seated over the bike?:-k

 

You are correct, if you had a DH bike that had zero pedal bob, minimal weight and a full set of gears the DH geometry would still limit the XC-ability of such a bike. Bionacon bikes has an answer to this exact issue.

 

seat tube angle and geo makes the bike want to wheelie while seated and climbing, plus most 8" forks dont lock out for climbing

 

^^^^ what Ricky said. Trying to climb on my big bike results in my front tire all over the trail and a bail out. Weight is not as much of an issue until say the 15 mile mark.

 

Yes.

 

hard to keep the front end down on some big bikes.... as stated above

 

On a full blown DH bike, you've got one chainring not suited for climbing, 45lbs of bike, 66 degree or less head angle and no suspension lockouts. All of your limited energy will go into the suspension and the weight, not into propulsion. Plus, dual-crown forks limit your ability to turn the handlebars, forcing some interesting techniques on downhill switchbacks and nearly impossible moves on uphill switchbacks. But, point them downhill on rocky terrain and go fast, dive into some bermed corners and smile - a lot!

 

So I've heard the KONA Stinky climbs alright, but I assume this all applies to it too.

 

stinky isnt a DH Bike, its a freeride bike, but it is a beast to climb but not, not climbable. IF your looking for something a lil BUT NOT MUCH more all mt, get a kona coiler huckable as anything and you can kind of climb on it. I think it depends on what you want to climb for some people climbing is 3000-5000 feet to some people its 800

 

I climb when I need to, the down hill is what I enjoy.

 

Get a DH then push or shuttle going UP!
Get a FR (mostly 7" travel) with dual ring upfront then climb and push the steep areas going UP -this I do often

 

So you like to huck/tear it up on the way down more than getting spandexed and spending 4+ hours in the saddle:-k. As others said, choppered out geometry = climbing wheelies, though the effect can be lessened by a fork (U-turn, TALAS, ETA) that can be dropped on the way up and un-corked on the downs. Depending on your budget a used coiler or Dawg are great bikes for the Oaks and Santa Anas, and nearly unbreakable and easy on the wallet. If going big is your priority I prescribe 1. a 20mm fork, 2. 2.4 or larger tires, and most important a frame no bigger than 19" or 20" so a guy your size can still toss it around. Only problem with 6"+ plus bikes is the weight which you will get sick of promptly. For a tight budget I would look at maybe a Mongoose, or Haro complete as they have a pretty good spec for the price point (check out Adrenaline). If you have some more cash to burn through the path or switchback can help you go full custom but even with a complete you will spend $2k+ in the long run to upgrade weak stock parts.

I know you keep saying your bike is played but if it aint broke neither should you be, first things I would buy would be an XT or SLX crank, some decent wheels, and as far as forks go you get what you pay for so go for a Pike or similar. Brakes are important too but even crappy ones can be upgraded with larger rotors to increase stopping power.

Any good shop sales person should be taking the time to patiently answer these kinds of questions for you, their job is to build the relationship since it's more important than whatever the product is. All I can say is watch out for those Craigs/E-bay deals, you won't wind up saving much in the long run as you can't return it if it does not work/fit.

You being long and spindly so should your bike, you will get many more miles out of it and enjoy it more than a Heavy Duty rig you would never bust. Something like a 575 or a teocali would be about right, but going above 130mm travel will double your fork price and also require a new front wheel.

Whatever, once you have a budget go shop around until then hit the road Al.:lol:

 

Thanks man, I feel kind of embarrassed now. I was at switchback and they told me about STR, said I could get my questions answered here. Seems as if you've caught on to me.8-[

 

The Knolly Delririum T is the second big bike in the Knolly line-up (biggest DH bike is the V-tach in Knolly), and it climbs very well, even though mine tops out at 43 lbs, and I'm only 5'2`

Read Knolly reviews at NSMBA site, then go to Gutsploder.com to see some sweeet Shore trails (click on the little flags to bring up the photos).

Anne

 

well it's also on the rider and how much heart you got to get to the top of something! I huffed and puffed all the way up brown mountain on a giant glory dh rig! it was pretty rewarding! Dont know if or when i will want to do that again!

 

DHers and FRers are generally slow up hill cuz they are simply out of shape and smoke too many bowls, especially homers, FR/DH bike or not. if you are in good shape, and dont mind being slower than you would otherwise be on your non DH/FR bike and have 2 rings up front, its all good...takes a bit longer but no reason you cant use a 40 lb+ bike for multi hour multi thousand feet ascent rides.

Knolly's rock...when i break my new years resolution that is what i want

 

Shuttle + Pipe

No need to climb on the big rigs.

DH run / blaze
repeat

 

I agree a 7" travel bike with ETA is the answer, It will climb so,so, You wont have to push that much, figure around 35lb's, great on the down hill.Good luck with your decission. Happy New Year

 

stinkys can be climbed

1. the difference between a FR and DH bike can be VERY small.

2. i regularly climb my stinky (8 inch fork) on 4000-5000 foot climbs. its 40+ pounds. so do many others. its the only bike i got. i do los pinos loops, double santa ana climbs and descents, etc.

people get so caught up in labels, just ride!

 

not only that but most of the cockpit( the are from the top of the saddle to the stem are shorter and make the rear suspension activate so this means less power to the rear when your out the saddle and up sprinting. plus even if you do mange to get climbing on a big bike its hard on your knees after a long time