Here's a quick run down of how you can fix or maintain the pivots on an I-Drive bike. These pivots might be creaking or knocking on you (making you think it's the bottom bracket....mine were knocking on out-of-the-saddle pedaling). However, after this, I think it's good to do this sort of maintenance once or twice a year depending on the mileage whether they are making noise or not. This little tool that John at Performance in Laguna Hills told me to make cost about $30. Happy wrenching! Here are the parts you will need. Two bottom bracket tools, some threaded rod, and some nuts and fender washers to hold them in place. You could also use a quick release skewer! Personally I think in the future I'll be using a spring from an RC car to create pressure rather than having to tighten and loosen as you remove the pivots. (you'll see what I mean below. The Assembled Tool. Remove your crankset This will expose both the main pivots. If you're running a chain guide, then you'll have to remove the bottom bracket to get to the pivot. Using a 4 and 5mm allen, undo the shock to allow the arm to swing down. Using a 5 and 6mm allen, take out the securing bolts and the washer. The bolts and washers removed allowing removal of the pivot. Using your special tool, insert the treaded rod through both sides to keep the BB tools from falling out and stripping the splines. Now loosen the left side while holding the right side. NOTE, when loosening, you will be threading out the pivot, putting pressure on the nuts on the outside. Turn the wrench, then loosen the nut, turn the wrench, loosen the nut, and so on until you can turn the BB tool by hand. Then, take out the rod and loosen the left side until it comes out. The right side of the pivot needs some help. Using a spark socket, or something similar, take a rubber mallet and tap the pivot out from the left side. This is what it will look like as it starts coming out. Remove the split beveled washer (Not shown) to expose the bearing. That's a years worth of dirt and I was shocked to see so much in there! I'm glad they are sealed! Now take a cloth and gently wipe the dirt off the sides and clean up. Do not press down! Even though they are 'sealed' dirt can still be forced in. Once you're finished cleaning everything, make sure to grease the pivot threads with grease (I use poly 1000). Reassemble the upper pivot until hand tight. DO NOT TIGHTEN FULLY YET. Proceed to use the same process on the lower pivot. You'll have to move it around to dislodge it and get to the pivot. Look! More dirt! (Sorry, this pic is sideways) Clean and replace bearings and hand tighten. Make sure the swingarm moves freely and there is no binding. Tighten both the upper and lower pivots using the tool. Here you'll have to turn and tighten the outer nuts as you screw in the pivot. When installing the pinch bolts and washers, please use loc-tite! If this doesn't solve the creaking problem, please refer to other posts in the GT Sanction Force Reference thread for lubing the rear dropouts.
Awesome. The creaking on my Dawg is annoying. I should perform this maintenance. I get creaking when climbing and pedaling while off the saddle.
Awesome walk through for late model I-drive owners. good work with the tool that's a really smart idea.
Thanks! I did this today and it made that awful noise go away....that bottom pivot was tough to get back in though...
