OK, I'll play.
--I've tried dry chain lubes: White Lightening, Pro Link, Pedro's Extra Dry, and Boeshield T-9. I didn't like any of them. They don't stay on the chain long enough.
--On one ride at Chilao, my brother and I lubed our chains in the parking lot before we hit the trail. He used Pedro's Extra Dry, and I used Pedro's Synlube ATB wet lube. By the end of the ride, his chain was dry as a bone, and devoid of lubricant. You could hear it. Mine continued to run silent and smooth the entire time. Even if you apply the lube well in advance of the ride (the way you're supposed to so the carrier can evaporate, which leaves the wax lubricant behind) the chain still ends up parched by the end of the ride. I'd rather have a smooth-running chain that needs periodic cleaning than a dry, stretched-out chain that in turn ruins my cassette and chainrings.
--On the chain, I give dry lubes a thumbs-down. I like dry lubes on pedals/cleats (I use Speedplay Frog pedals--you lube the cleat instead of the pedal) and on cables and on derailleur pivots. For those applications, dry lubes get a thumbs-up from me.
--I use Simple Green to clean my chain. Lately, I've been removing the chain from the bike and cleaning it with a brush. A SRAM Power Link makes removing and installing easy, but you already know that.
--I usually remove my cassette from the rear wheel before I clean it. This keeps water and solvent out of the rear hub.
--I'm becoming a fan of cleaning my bike with a wet rag instead of a hose. Even though I've been careful with a hose in the past, I found that water still got in my "sealed" pivot cartridge bearings. A wet rag minimizes this. If the bike's REALLY muddy, then the hose and a brush is the only option, but it needs to be followed up with a pivot greasing session.
--Brake rotor can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol. It leaves no residue.
--If my brake pads are gunked up or otherwise contaminated, I'll run them across sandpaper to give them a fresh grabbing surface.
--Blue loctite is safe to use on bike fasteners. Red or Green (penetrating grade) loctite is too strong and you risk parts breakage--these are best saved for automotive projects. One drop of blue loctite is all that's needed, and the parts must be grease-free and dry for the loctite to function effectively.
--I like to dab a drop of Tri-flow on spoke nipples before I true a wheel. It keeps the nipples from seizing in the rim or on the threads.