Bike Cleaners/Lubricants.... (merged threads)

Dino Brown

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I went to my local bike shop yesterday to pick-up a few (much needed) supplies.
One of the items on my list was bike lubricant.
Soooo many to choose from... #-o

* What brands have you had the most success with?
* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?
* Favorite BB/Brake/Hub/Pivot bolt lube?

* Should fork seals be lubricated?
* Do you recommend "thread lockers"
* Is Simple Green safe to use on bike chains? Brake pads/rotors?
* Best way to rinse off a bike

Any advice would be most appreciated! :beer:
 
* What brands have you had the most success with?
I used to use White lightning but have since switched to Finishline teflon dry

* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?
Wet lubes seem to gunk up easier than dry but they do last longer

* Favorite BB/Brake/Hub/Pivot bolt lube?
Phil Wood or Finishline synthetic

* Should fork seals be lubricated?
I put a drop or two on the stanchions to keep them moist

* Do you recommend "thread lockers"
I use loctite blue on all bolts related to disc brakes, rotors

* Is Simple Green safe to use on bike chains?
Safe on bike chains
Brake pads/rotors? I only use alcohol

* Best way to rinse off a bike
Hose without nozzle (flame on water impregnation freaks!)

I have been riding for a long time and I have found that this works for me. If it dont work for you-do what works for you!
Later, Rossage
 
I went to my local bike shop yesterday to pick-up a few (much needed) supplies.
One of the items on my list was bike lubricant.
I had LITERALLY 10 choices. #-o

* What brands have you had the most success with?
* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?
* Favorite BB/Brake/Hub/Pivot bolt lube?

* Should fork seals be lubricated?
* Do you recommend "thread lockers"
* Is Simple Green safe to use on bike chains? Brake pads/rotors?
* Best way to rinse off a bike

Any advice would be most appreciated! :beer:

Why didn't you ask these questions at the Fullerton clinic #-o.

I can only answer a couple of those though.

I use Pedro's Road Rage Wet Lube for everything.

Wax lube is a liquid but dries into a wax after applying it. The negative with wax lube is that dirt sticks to it. If I remember correctly, Lee said just stick with wet lube. You can buy it in a spray can or a bottle with a eye dropper type end. And it is personally preference on what one you want. The spray is easier to apply, but you can end up spraying way too much on.

Not sure if fork seals need to be lubricated, but I don't think it hurts.

Simple Green is fine to use on the chain. Or you can get one of those chain cleaner things that you put around the chain and pedal (Freddie said that he tells everyone that buys a new chain to get it because it works well).

The way I clean my bike is with a bucket of soapy water with a rag and a soft brush. You start at the handle bars and work your way down and back until you get to the BB. Then start at the seat and work your way down and back to the end of the rear triangle. You then do the same thing with a bucket of regular water to rinse the bike and dry it with a towel. Then lube everything up.
 
I use lightweight synthetic Mobil 1 motor oil on my chain and it works great. After every couple rides (or one long ride) I use a brush on the cogs/chain, then reapply the synthetic.

I have used just about every bike-specific lube out there, and I haven't found anything to be noticeably better than synth motor oil. I am sure industry wonks will disagree.

I also use simple green about 1:5 in water to clean my chain if it gets really bad, but if it is dry (even dried out after a muddy ride) I just use a large brush like you'd use in a brush/dustpan combo. Hold the brush on the cassette while spinning the cranks for 20 seconds and your cassette and chain will be darn clean.
 
Mot too much input as i'm a, nUb. just a question, those of you who know me/have ridding with me know my bike creaks like a b, GOT RID OF THE CREAK! yea i know, no longer will i be embarrassed to go on group rides! Problem was the rear hangers, they're removeable i greased them with some "multipurpose lithium grease" worked well but i can tell it's already starting to wear off after 1-2 rides, any suggestions on what else to use back there to keep the creak away?
 
I used triflow,pedros gold (I think for awhile). I'm not a fan of wet lubes. I use white lighting as it is easy to clean and does not attract as much dirt as the wet lube. I clean the drive train after every ride and relube the drive train. As far as washing I use a soapy rag, wipe it all down and lightly rinse and try to avoid any where water can puddle. I then lube all the pivots, Shock and fork with a teflon lubricant. Once a month or so, I take apart the drive train and give it a through scrubing.
 
OK, I'll play.

--I've tried dry chain lubes: White Lightening, Pro Link, Pedro's Extra Dry, and Boeshield T-9. I didn't like any of them. They don't stay on the chain long enough.

--On one ride at Chilao, my brother and I lubed our chains in the parking lot before we hit the trail. He used Pedro's Extra Dry, and I used Pedro's Synlube ATB wet lube. By the end of the ride, his chain was dry as a bone, and devoid of lubricant. You could hear it. Mine continued to run silent and smooth the entire time. Even if you apply the lube well in advance of the ride (the way you're supposed to so the carrier can evaporate, which leaves the wax lubricant behind) the chain still ends up parched by the end of the ride. I'd rather have a smooth-running chain that needs periodic cleaning than a dry, stretched-out chain that in turn ruins my cassette and chainrings.

--On the chain, I give dry lubes a thumbs-down. I like dry lubes on pedals/cleats (I use Speedplay Frog pedals--you lube the cleat instead of the pedal) and on cables and on derailleur pivots. For those applications, dry lubes get a thumbs-up from me.

--I use Simple Green to clean my chain. Lately, I've been removing the chain from the bike and cleaning it with a brush. A SRAM Power Link makes removing and installing easy, but you already know that.

--I usually remove my cassette from the rear wheel before I clean it. This keeps water and solvent out of the rear hub.

--I'm becoming a fan of cleaning my bike with a wet rag instead of a hose. Even though I've been careful with a hose in the past, I found that water still got in my "sealed" pivot cartridge bearings. A wet rag minimizes this. If the bike's REALLY muddy, then the hose and a brush is the only option, but it needs to be followed up with a pivot greasing session.

--Brake rotor can be cleaned with rubbing alcohol. It leaves no residue.

--If my brake pads are gunked up or otherwise contaminated, I'll run them across sandpaper to give them a fresh grabbing surface.

--Blue loctite is safe to use on bike fasteners. Red or Green (penetrating grade) loctite is too strong and you risk parts breakage--these are best saved for automotive projects. One drop of blue loctite is all that's needed, and the parts must be grease-free and dry for the loctite to function effectively.

--I like to dab a drop of Tri-flow on spoke nipples before I true a wheel. It keeps the nipples from seizing in the rim or on the threads.
 
Wanted to revisit this thread and ask if anyone changes up their chain lube during the rain season. I went riding the other day and used Pedros synlube after hearing it was great for wet conditions. My chain looks like it was dipped in Elmers school glue and dragged through a sandbox. Pedro's syn lube is the devil!!!! I threw away the bottle and bought a new chain. I'm half tempted to send Pedro's the bill.

I like Pro Gold's Pro Link chain lube. It like a paint thinner cleaning agent and leaves a nice moist lube to the chain. It does pick up some light dust and dirt, but not as bad as most I have used. I also like the Finish Line red top lube. Not a fan of wax lubes due to the build up.

+1 for simple green, spray it right on the bike, scrub caked on stuff and rinse off gently. I also put it straight in my chain cleaning tool. I also like the finish line eco friendly stuff in a grey bottle but kind of pricey.

I use park tools grease.

Brakes, I just use a soft paint brush.

I dont lube the fork, it will only pick up debris and risk damaging seals.

Blue locktite for brakes and seat bolts.
 
What works for me.

Here's what I have found works well for me in SoCal.

* Differences between wet and wax based chain lubes?
Use White Lightening Dry, as I perfer wax in our dry dusty riding.

* Favorite BB/Brake/Hub/Pivot bolt lube?
Tri-flow synthetic for pedals, brake pivots, shifters (but it only takes a drop)
Rubbing alcohol for brake surfaces.
Park's grease for BB & hubs

* Should fork seals be lubricated?
I just clean the seals & stanchons. Lubing can attract more dirt that can get into the seal and scratch the stanchon.

* Do you recommend "thread lockers"
Use Lock-tite blue on key bolts.

* Is Simple Green safe to use on bike chains?
Yes.

* Brake pads/rotors?
Rubbing alcohol

* Best way to rinse off a bike
If you use a hose nozel, turn down the pressue so it's very light. You don't want to inject water anywhere.

Thanks.
 
T-9

park tool grease

Bucket car wash soap and a sponge cas. brush for chain rings ect...

rinse with bucket O water

WD-40 der. ect...

air nozzle dry with the compressor...

polish with WD-40

dialed!
 
To clean the chain I put the electric kettle on, mix boiling water with palmolive (dish cleaner) and let the chain soak in a plastic container and shake the container it gets really clean you can brush it as well. I do this every couple months. Then I lube afterwards with Rock n roll (not sure of the name its clear bottle at the path with gold label).
 
Just to give some input, I've been using this stuff called RGS to clean my bike. It comes in an arosol can and come out as a foam. Supposedly it's used in NASCAR for quick cleans without using water. On my bike it breaks down the dirt and mud very well, wipes off without water, and dries without leaving any residue. Let's me clean the bike entirely in a few minutes. Don't know where to get the stuff though.
As far as lubes I like white lightnings wax based, chain stays cleaner than when I use an oil based.
 
I've recently been using Chain-L to lube my chain. It seems to run silently forever. I applied it last November for the 12 hours of Temecula and didn't need to relube till February! That's riding usually 4 times/week. I wipe the chain and cogs and cassette after every ride. The first ride after application usually picks up some clingy dirt, but after that it is well worked into the internals of the chain and usually only picks up some dust which is easily wiped off. Whatever squeeks my bike may make is not coming from the chain.
 
I've recently been using Chain-L to lube my chain. I applied it last November for the 12 hours of Temecula and didn't need to relube till February! That's riding usually 4 times/week. I wipe the chain and cogs and cassette after every ride. The first ride after application usually picks up some clingy dirt, but after that it is well worked into the internals of the chain and usually only picks up some dust which is easily wiped off.
1. Where did you purchase it? Cost? :?:
2. Dry lube? Wet lube?
3. By "wiping the chain/cog/cassette after every ride" do you mean with a dry cloth or with a cloth with Chain-L on it?

Hard to believe a product works so well!
May have to pick up a bottle! :)

chain-l-no-5-review.jpg

Chain-L discussion http://www.socaltrailriders.org/forum/workshop/45608-anyone-fancy-some-designer-lube.html
 
Chain-L is oil based, but works itself into the internals of the chain, so it doesn't stay on the top collecting junk. I got my bottle at Interbike, but you can probably google it and find out info. I just found out Duke777 also uses it. I wipe the drive with a dry cloth.
 
For what it's worth, I have used Pro-Link for the last couple of years and have been very satisfied with the results... as long as you re-lube every 4-5 rides. However, I recently switched to Chain-L on a new chain and have been amazed at the longevity. It seems to be working extremely well. Now if I could just get back on the bike for further testing....
 

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