Removing a blind suspension bearing....

Some suspension bearings will not allow you to press it out due to access issues. That could be called a blind bearing.



I've tried hammering them out with an appropriate punch, but in more than one occassion, Ive destroyed the bearing and left the outer casing inside the assembly.

Believe me, that is no fun.

You can remove the bearing with a blind bearing puller.

This is a reasonably priced unit http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

In my experience, trying to pull a bearing from a frame supported by a bike stand will not allow you exert enough force to actually pop out the bearing.

To address this situation, it is advised that you use a heat gun and heat the casing between 220 to 250 degrees F. Then just pop it out.

Hear is a vid from a shop class that's pretty good.

[video=youtube;UzcIq4gEm3A]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzcIq4gEm3A[/video]

 

You might want to put some of this in your tool bag too. It works wonders, I use it in the shop all the time.

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/

 

Kroil is a mainstay at my shop too. We easily go through 2 cases a year.

but in more than one occasion, I've destroyed the bearing and left the outer casing inside the assembly. When this happens to us, we will lay down a MIG pass in the inside of the outer race. As the weld cools down it shrinks or contracts and that contracts the outside of the race too. Wait five minutes for it to cool, flip the part over and the outer race will drop out 99% of the time. For smaller bearings we usually have to TIG the race with a small hood. This works very well for Timken style (tapered cups) and cylindrical bearing outer races too.

 

Ive wanted to learn to weld for the longest time