One season with the Fox 40 Float

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by bing!, Nov 23, 2014.

  1. bing!

    bing! Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2010
    Messages:
    3,220
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    38
    In for service, a 2014 Fox 40 Float.

    The damper made it through without any need for a bleed. I'll recommend a full rebuild on year 2 just so that it doesnt have a problem in the field. We all know how expensive on time and money DH trips are.

    The new gold oil in the lowers came out congealed, looks like hair gel. Don't know enough about these forks to change the oil to something else just yet so I am refilling with Fox 20 wt. gold again. I will recommend to check the oil at a shorter interval than once a season as congealed oil doesnt flow. I'd be worried about some wear if it gets too thick. There are reports out east that the oil is solidying in 45 degree temps.

    Lastly, watch your air spring oil level. This bad boy was too dry. I've seen more fluid in a porno :) So dry, it didnt even make it to the drain.

    Duhno if it makes a difference, but the factory used gold oil in the air spring. The service manual says Fox Fluid, the blue stuff. Gonna clean the air spring, inspect and put in the right stuff.

    image.jpg
    image.jpg
     
  2. Fearless Fly

    Fearless Fly anachronistic and impulsi

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2007
    Messages:
    2,005
    Likes Received:
    7
    Trophy Points:
    38
    Occupation:
    Mechanical Engineer
    Location:
    Brea, CA
    Home Page:
    Bing,

    Why not bleed the damper? Typically unless you have the internals hard coated the damper will need the oil changed more than the rest of the fork.

    Also did you fill your 40 with oil when you got it? Fox typically puts little to no oil in them.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. bing!

    bing! Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2010
    Messages:
    3,220
    Likes Received:
    3
    Trophy Points:
    38
    You think I should? The FIT is Kashima'd.

    I haven't seen a sealed damper that's been infiltrated by dirt unless it's been neglected. Due to that, I am rebuilding dampers only when there is air inside, or when the damper seals are more than two years old (preventive maintenance). I've also seen material saying 200 hour service intervals for sealed dampers are ok. For open bath and Rockshox dampers (non charger), I rebuild at least once a season as those do get dirty.

    I've adopted a simple test for sealed dampers. I pull it out, inspect, push and pull on it to check if there is an air gap in the damping. If it passes visual and the push/pull test, I tell the owner to save his money unless he thinks it's been through a lot.

    I haven't used my own 40. I ran my old one till the end of the season coz it ran so well. Just took the old one off. I will look into oil levels. Thanks for the tip.
     

Share This Page

Help keep STR alive, please click the donation button below