2010 Talas 32 RLC FIT - Rebuild?

I have a 2010 Talas 32 RLC "FIT" - It is obvious the FIT damper is different from the 2009 RLC. I am planning to change the oil and seals but want to know if I am going to encounter any new issues from the older versions.

The below numbers are from the Fox fluid measurement chart which makes it sound like you add fluid directly into the Damper.

2010 32 RLC FIT
Damper 35.2
Damper -side Oil Bath 30.0
Spring-side Oil Bath 10.0

Has anyone done this yet? How do you add the fluid to the Damper?

Thanks

 

Yo anyone anyone .....4 pages of talk about cable rub and nobody has any info on a 2010 Talas? :?:

 

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

Click on "service" in the left hand menu.

 

wow, the link has a few more tabs from when I last looked - huge help. Thanks

 

Just curious why you're doing this service already on such a new fork? Is that based on your amount of use, riding conditions, personal preference, mods you're also doing, or is it actually based on a recommended service interval (which I'm being too lazy to look up).

 

I have almost 3000 miles on it in 11 months and it is feeling a bit sluggish. Its easy to change the oil and seals so I am going to start with that. After a fast active downhill, like the luge, it feels like a loose headset or axle and the fork is just not tight like it used to. Once things cool off it goes back to relative normal. My guess is that in the 2010's the 35cc's of oil in the oil bath gets contaminated easy / faster and messes up the works. I hope that oil and seals is the fix and I dont find a bigger issue.

 

Well, now I feel like a slacker on two counts - not riding enough or servicing my fork frequently enough!

 

Wow! 3000 miles...dooh.

 

May 1st is 12 months and I have 125 miles to go for 3000. Fork should at least be under warranty if anything is really wrong

 

FYI for anyone out there - I did the re-build and it was very easy - just a lot of steps but the online step by step instructions provided on the link by CalEpic are a huge help. http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

Tools to make sure you have b 4 you start
1.5mm allen
1/16 inch allen
26mm socket
Small little cups to put all the little tiny parts in - lots of little parts so get tweezers also.

Because the fork has 3 main components inside (damper (FIT) cartridge, TALAS top and bottom) that dont need to be taken apart it is fairly easy work. Also, I was amazed at how little fluid was in the fork once I got the thing opened up. They say you put in 40 - 50 cc's but I only got less than 20cc's to come out???? so its either getting pushed out, evaporating or not put in to begin with?

Bottom line if you have the tools and an hour or so give it a try. It beats sending it out for a week and $100. Just go over the step by step instructions a couple times and have a computer sitting next to you when you do it and your good.

 

Be sure you cycle the damper cartridge to make sure you get all the old oil out when it's apart. Aside from a small amount that weeps through the seals, unless your fork was leaking, it's still in there.

Also - on the 26 mm socket, it's a good idea to grind the chamfer on the opening flat. The top caps on the fork are aluminum with a small shoulder and are very easy to round off.

 

Are the crush washers reusable or did you get new ones for the rebuild? Also, did you remove the air spring and dampener to replace the wipers and add new oil?

 

crush washers can only get crushed once.....

hence the crushing action

 

Does the Dust Wiper Kit include a new crush washer. The picture looks like it but I can't find an inventory of the included parts.

 

Yes

 

As a general rule you should get new ones...I have re-used the old ones before and had no problems.

I usually take them apart every three months and change the bath oil. When I do I re-use the seals and crush washers. Every 6 months i replace the seals, crush washers and bath oil. May be a bit overkill, but keeps the forks working well and prolongs the life of the stanctions and bushings.

 

On the 2010 with the FIT Damper you dont have to do this as the damper is sealed up tight with a separate set of steps to pull that apart. Take a look at all these steps and tools to do the work before you think about it.

http://service.foxracingshox.com/consumers/index.htm

I passed on it as I dont see how the oil can get dirty inside this cartridge inside the forks. I figured I will leave this for later and someone with more skill.

And yes the seal kit has crush washer and plastic washer.
:beer:

 

I am thinking of servicing my 2010 Talas 32 RLC and had a few questions. I just want to do the seals and oil, not a full servicing of the FIT damper. I have a few questions, is the 2010 RLC Fit considered the TALAS III or the TALAS II. Also, what do you guys use to measure oil. I was thinking that a syringe would work best but I am not sure where to pick one up? Do most automotive supply stores have them or would I need to check out a medical supply store?

Thanks.

 

I used a graduated cylinder, you can get them cheap at school supply stores. I think I have a 50 and 10 ml ones.

 

Anyone know if it's a talas II or III?