11-32 + 42T chainring vs 11-36 + 44T chainring..noticeable in climbing?

After doing some research, I have found out that I will need to upgrade my shifters and derailures to go to a 10 speed..which is not in my budget at this time.

I currently have a 11-32 casette with a 42T chain ring (it's a 3 piece). If I go to a 11-36 cassette and 44T chain ring, will there be a noticeable difference (easier) in climbing?

It would seem so, but will I notice it/considerable..or marginal?

 

Are you doing a 1x9 set up?

44T is a pretty big ring to run solely up front.

On my bike I'm doing a 1x10 set up and using a 34T up front. It's tolerable... it's like staying in your middle ring all the time. On most budget triple ring bikes it's usually a 32T.

 

I think you really want a budget 1x10 setup with a Wolf Tooth 42t (or similar) rear big cog with a 30t or 28t narrow-wide front ring for climbing or just ride what you have and save-up for a new bike with 1x11.

 

My 34t front and 34t rear is noticeably easier than my 32x20 SS gear.

 

44Ring- You will notice the difference on all your rides (you will burn up quicker). I would play with 32-34 and 36ring if you must. 32-34 you dont ever have to cut the chain after the initial cut. Biggest i seen was 38ring, barely made clearance and his legs made mine look like twigs. Your legs would have to acclimate tho. 3x and 1x mentality dont mix, they are two different entities.

 

I think you are confused. You cannot climb with a 42 or 44 t chainring (front), no matter what your rear cassette is. If you can, you are the strongest climber on STR.

My recommendation for you is to stick with your traditional triple chainring (22, 32, 44) and an 11-36 rear. If you want to go 2x10, use a 22 or 24 small ring, a 36 big ring and an 11-36 cassette.

 

Since OPer, you didn't exactly explain what you're trying to do, some of us (I) have made assumptions. If your going 1x, you do it with the middle ring. If you're going 2x, keep the inner and middle ring. Don't even consider the 44t outer unless you're staying 3x.

Here's what i would do in those setups if i wasn't already used to SS... 1x- I would get a 28t or 30t middle. 2x- I would get a 24 granny and 36 middle. Both i would match with an 11-34/36 cassette. Whichever your deraileur will fit. Spin away to your hearts content.

 

If I recall correctly, the OP has a Trek 4300/4500/4900.

 

I'm assuming you're sticking to a 3 chainring front. Why do you need to change your chainrings in the first place? Just change your cassette. You're going to need a rear derailleur that will work with the 11-36 which is what you'd choose if you want easier climbing. I'm guessing your basic rear derailleur that works for your 11-32 may not be able to work with a 36. On top of this, you're probably going to need a new chain.

This is why you should hold off on any upgrades. Just save your money and buy a used more capable bike when you do have the cash. Just enjoy what you have, and if nothing else, it will make you stronger.

 

Is the OP just asking about replacing the big ring on a triple and wondering which combo is best? Is the OP climbing in the big ring?

That sounds like a dare.

I do most of my climbing at F36t/R30t-R26t-R23t, which is about the same as F44t/R36t-R32t-R28t. If you go with a 42t front ring and a 42t rear conversion, (Which is pricey and not what the OP has, I realize,) you get even lower. When I go with that low of a ratio, I tend to pop the front wheel off the ground or spin the rear.

 

Perhaps I worded this thread incorrectly. I don't plan on going to a 1X10 or 2X10 at all..at least not now.

The 44T is the largest chain ring on the RF Ride Crank set (44/32/22) (I will be keeping all three chain rings that came with the RF Ride crankset).

This thread was more of an inquiry if there is a noticeable difference in easier climbing when I use the 44T on the front and the 36T on the rear. (As my previous was at 42T in the front and 32T in the rear at the granny-est gear setting)

Hope this makes it more clear..

 

Your "granny-est" gear would be 22 in front and what ever your large rear cog is. You shouldn't be riding big chainring/ big cog, that's called cross-chaining and will prematurely wear out your chain.

 

44x36 = 1.22 ratio
42x32 = 1.31 ratio
44-36 is shorter, aka easier, aka spin out sooner than 42x32

Regardless, as akalan said you should not use this combo on purpose, cross chaining a 3x is bad manners (your bike will hate you). Use the 32x26 (mid ring 3rd cog) for 1.23 ratio similar to 44x36. If you need lower (easier) use your 36 rear cog or go to your small 22 ring in front. Have fun!

 

This. And, you won't notice much differance in 2t on front or rear when you have a 3x span of gear ratios. Run what ya brung. Save the cash for later.

 

That's what I though you meant, but you still seem confused. You don't ever intentionally climb in your biggest front chainring when you have a triple set up. You will want to use the middle or smallest chainring in front to climb. Your easiest gear combo will be your smallest in front with your largest in the rear. This will also keep your chain in line (both are on the left or most inboard side of the bike) as opposed to cross chaining from big front to big rear.

Does that help?

 

Yes, I see the cross chaining being a no-no..just too hard (really awkward) for the chain to reach the ends seems like..(and to be honest I did do some climbs this way..learning)

..so does the same go for the other end..not to go into the smallest chain ring and smallest cog?

 

Yup! But there won't be as much pressure on the chain, since you are going faster, so it won' t be as likely to damage your chain, gears or derailleur. It will make for a very sloppy chain that will bounce all over the place and probably bounce off the front into your bottom bracket.

 

Cross-chaining while climbing puts forces on the chain that will separate the plates and break your chain. It will also wear the teeth of the gears and chainrings by coming in and off at such a strange angle under the pressure of climbing. Finally, it will also damage your derailleur as it is being twisted at the bottom.

 

Ok, so basically, you want the chain to be in the "straightest" line as possible throughout the shifts.

So, as I have a 9-speed cassette, I should utilize each 3 cogs respective to the 3 chain rings?

Can the middle chain ring be utilized through ALL the cogs on the cassette without wear problems?

Are there slight variances between cogs to chain rings? Meaning, If I am on the biggest chain ring, can I possibly use the 2nd..3rd or 4th biggest cog?

Is there a common formula between chain ring to cog?

 

You can use your entire 9-spd cassette with your middle chainring. Frankly, that will cover most everything you will be riding. Steep climbs will require your small chainring and the 4 or 5 biggest (easiest) rear gears. Hauling ass on a flat trail, on pavement or DH might require use of your biggest chainring and the smallest (hardest) 4 or 5 gears in the rear.

Hope that helps! :wave: