Need help getting last pivot bolt off FS linkage

Discussion in 'The Workshop' started by foofighter, Oct 10, 2008.

  1. foofighter

    foofighter Ride More Talk Less

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    ok so i've got everything taken off my Canzo 29'er and i cant get this last one off i dont want to wrench it too hard for fear of stripping it. How do you take this off????
     

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  2. dubjay

    dubjay Having upgraditis is OK

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    Any chance it's reverse-threaded? Try tightening it :)
     
  3. foofighter

    foofighter Ride More Talk Less

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    i tried that as well and it was equally tight
     
  4. davidB

    davidB New Member

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    what's the other side look like?

    I had the same problem on my kona and just paid a few bucks for the path to do it lol
     
  5. dubjay

    dubjay Having upgraditis is OK

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    It could be that the loctite is on there pretty good. Try heating it up a little. You have a little torch or something you can use? Shoot the flame through a pipe onto the bolt do you don't burn the surroundings too much.
     
  6. foofighter

    foofighter Ride More Talk Less

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    other side is a counter sunk bolt that came off easily...i'm wondering if it is locetite on there hmmm
     
  7. Pho'dUp

    Pho'dUp Spam Musubi MasherSS

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    The bigger question is this for powder coating or diassembly for sale?

    That rear end of the Canzo especially that pivot looks a lot like my old Kona Kahuna/Kikapu. I believe I did something like this to get that bolt out.

    But you know, you could always ask a professional.

    Dam did that bike even get 100 dirt miles yet?

    Below are directions on how to service Kona pivot bearings!

    What you need:
    -allen head tri wrench
    -bearing kit from kona
    -C-Clamp
    -Socket kit
    -Longer bolt that will fit into the chainring side
    -Vice
    -Hammer


    Bearing removal of main pivot "by the bottom bracket"
    1. Take off both of your crank arms.
    2. There is a bolt on the chain ring side of your bike. Back it out about a fourth of the way.
    3. Now i would suggest getting one of these for the next step.
    4. Brace the bottom bracket spindal on a peice of wood.
    5. Now, find the right size on the tri-wrench and fit it into the bolt.
    6. Take a hammer, and begin to hit HARD downward on the wrench.
    7. The flat bolt on the non-chainring side should begin to move out. As it backs out more and more, you will have to un-screw the bolt that you are hammering on bit by bit until you run out of thread. Now you will need a longer bolt that will thread into the chainring side. "check at a hardware store"
    8. Take the stock bolt you are hammering on out as soon as you run out of thread, and thread the longer one in and finish hammering until the bolt on the non-chainring side drops out.
    9. Now pull the chain stay off of the main frame.
    10. You should see a whiteish spacer one each side. It should pull out easily.
    11. Now you should see the blue seals of the bearings on each side.
    12. Take a large socket and place it ontop of the bearing on one side. This is where you have to hammer the hell out them. Dont be scared, it will take alot to get em out!
    13. As you hammer, the bearings will push through the frame, and drop out of the other side along with a spacer.
    14. Throw away the old bearings!

    Pressing in the new main pivot bearings
    1. Now that you have removed the old bearings, you need to press in the new ones with a C-Clamp which can be a bit tricky.
    2. Lightly grease the inside of the frame, and the outer diameter of the bearings, along with the spacer.
    3. Press each bearing in one at a time, and MAKE SURE THEY ARE GOING IN STRAIGHT!
    4. After you finish pressing in the two bearing on one side, slide the spacer in on the other side, and press the other two in on top of that.
    5. After the bearings are pressed in, find a large washer, that will barely fit in the frame.
    6. Put it on top of the bearings on one side, and press it in, and do the same on the other side. Take it out now.
    7. Put the new spacers in the frame, replace the chainstay, pound the large axel bolt into the non-chainring side, and thread the new screw into the chainring side, and torqe down tight.
    8. Fit your cranks back on.

    Removing the upper linkage bearings
    1. Take the bolts that hold you hydrolic line and derailleur cable off.
    2. Unscrew the 4 bolts that hold the upper linkage together, and the upper bolt that holds your rear shock.
    3. Remove the rocker plates.
    4. Refer to here for the rest! Good luck!

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=157111&highlight=kona+bolt+pivot+removal
     
  8. dubjay

    dubjay Having upgraditis is OK

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    Now that I look at it, it looks similar to my old Van Dessel as well. If you need little replacement washers that go in between, let me know. I had to buy a bag of 50.
     
  9. foofighter

    foofighter Ride More Talk Less

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    thanks carl, it's for my new refresh project (read) powdercoating. and from the looks of that instruction you posted it would be best if i took it to the path to have them remove because I dont want to jack this up. Thanks again meng!
     
  10. autoduel

    autoduel sandbagger

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    I'd make sure it's a thru-bolt before breaking out the hammer. If you are wrong, you could end up with a bent chainstay. Thru-bolts usually start turning as soon as loosen the other side. This sounds like a mirror image of the other side.
     

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