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#1 (permalink) |
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^needs to ride more
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picked up a kona frame at the path's sale, got a fork from jenson like everyone else it seemed, and scored on a shimano crankset on craigslist.
now to put it all together. First, what's in a headset? I know I could get a Chris King for $100+, never replace it, or spend half that and replace it twice. Also, would it be worth it to take the fork, frame into my local Incycle or the Path, get the headset from them and have them put them all together? I'd like to do it on my own for a couple reasons. Money, but more importantly hands on experience. I'm in no rush to get this bike together in the next week, but i don't want to take forever on it. Same with the cranks, the BB shell threads have been lubed a bit, seemed cleaned as well as the BB with the cranks. However, I don't really want to go out and buy a tool for this if i mess with it once. Install is $20 at Incylce that I could easily save for something else. what to do? I've seen ghetto home made ways of getting a headset in so should I just go that route? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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thats hot.
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i would recommend having a friend who knows how to assemble a bike correctly do it for you if you don't wanna drop cash at a shop. i certainly WOULD NOT recommend using a 'ghetto home made' headset press on a brand new frame, especially if you've never done it before.
maybe the mechanic at the shop you decide to take it to will let you look over his/her shoulder when installing the parts so you can watch and learn...then on your next build you can give it a shot.
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tkBLAZER: not sure if it was the humidity but there was some nipple action goin on. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Free-XC-Downhiller
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Cane Creek Solos headset. Nearly half the $ of a King and has the same 10 year warranty.
I prefer the "hammer and 2 soft pieces of wood" method for headset installs - even on new frames! ![]()
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www.t2bikes.com |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Steve Peat Wannabe
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As for the headset, yes there are differences purpose (heavy duty for freerideers or lightweight for XC), and therefore weight. A King headset is pretty sweet for any application, from XC to DH. And yes, have a shop install it. You could do it yourself ghetto style, but if it's not set 100% centered, you could really f-up your frame. If you bought the frame from The Path, and you buy the headset from they, maybe they'll install it for free.
As for the cranks, I would buy a tool. That way, not only can you install it yourself, but you can service it yourself if needed, or take it off yourself when you want to give your bike some extra special cleaning love! Besides, $20 to install at Incycle sounds steep. You could buy the tool for not much more. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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STR Veteran
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Quote:
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foofighter (09-12-2007)
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#9 (permalink) |
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by design
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If you need one more opinion to push you over the edge, I must agree with the majority - LBS for the headset. Most components are easy to install with the proper tools at home. Headset, though is one part I have always gone into the shop for. And Incycle crew is pretty quick.
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#10 (permalink) |
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has-been onna hardtail
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IMHO- if you do not have the propper tool or prior know-how to install a Headset, please have it done by a Pro.
That is a critical install with bad things looming if you dont get it right. (i.e.- too loose/too tight) If they screw it up, it's on them. BB's are a no-brainer. Pretty stright fwd. Just dont over-torque or cross-thread. I use a lil grease on the threads. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Old School BMXer
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I'm going to disagree with the majority here on the headset. I started working on bikes when I was about 7 or 8 when I stripped my Sting-Ray down for a new rattle can paint job. My dad supplied me with all of the tools I needed. I learned how to fix stuff by experimenting. My dad encouraged that.
I'm all for taking chances, but always be aware of the risks and consequences. Those who are the most successful probably got there because they took some risks. It's a head set, not brain surgury. If you're mechanically inclined, figure out the concept (keeping the cups straight while pressing) and you'll be fine. The only real concern is to not press the cups in at an angle - you may damage the frame. Tip to prevent creaking, put grease on the surfaces of the cups and the frame. While many people will scof at this, many thousand headsets have been knocked into frames successfully with a couple blocks of wood and a hammer. If you're careful with the frame and have the cups in straight, this works very well (don't forget the grease). But also as mentioned, it would be nice to have someone knowlegdable around while doing the job....as long as beer is not involved.
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Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you. May the air be filled with tires! |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Free-XC-Downhiller
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Quote:
I "pressed" in the Spot headset this AM with 2 soft pieces of wood and rubber mallet. The only bike I didn't do that way was my 6 Pack which was getting a deep cup headset. It was a beyotch even with a Park press.
__________________
www.t2bikes.com |
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#13 (permalink) |
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has-been onna hardtail
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I made a press out of an F-250 kingpin bolt, nut and the two super thick washers that came with, that held the radius arm to the I-beam. (left over from a Rancho install) It's also easy to judge the forces being applied to the cups when setting.
It works great as a headset press and gets them both in at the same time. Beating on a headset cup? Just make sure the surfaces are clean and it is a snug (slight interfearance) fit and they go in very straight from the git-go. But not so tight as to distort the cup. Meausring first helps (check for out of round, etc). I use anti-seize, not grease, to prevent galling and corrosion. But.....to each his own. ![]() |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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F.T.W.
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Quote:
This is the exact way that both my RIP and the ONE9 came together... Buy the headset and ask them to simply press in the cups for you.... I did opt of rthe CK both times and both times the Path pressed them in... You will want the BB tool though... ![]()
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If you don't live for something... You will die for nothing Big Thanks to ::: http://www.thepathbikeshop.com/ |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Old School BMXer
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Ya know, if the cup can't withstand some taping with a block of wood and a hammer, I surely don't want to trust it on a bike where I have a three-foot lever (fork and wheel) trying to rip the cup sideways out of the frame while doing drops.
I first knocked in the some of the softest aluminum cups into chrome-moly BMX frames back in the 80's with blocks of wood and a mallet, and I never had a problem or knew anyone else to ever have a problem with this method.
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Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you. May the air be filled with tires! |
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#18 (permalink) |
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I build jumps
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foofighter (09-12-2007)
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#19 (permalink) |
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Old School BMXer
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Currently, I'm using a long 1" bolt with pieces of copper pipe over the bolt, so the cups can't rock sideways. The copper pipe is a perfect fit between the bolt and the headset cups.
__________________
Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you. May the air be filled with tires! |
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#20 (permalink) |
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A little dab will do me
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well I have tapped in my fair share of bearing races that's for sure.
But I was standing at the LBS to buy said head set. Sooooo it was no muss no fuss to let them do it. I do understand the pride of doing it yourself. I don't agree with Project D on the cost. I am always shocked at how little labor costs at a bike shop. 20 bucks won't get anything started at all in my shop. |
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