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Old 08-19-2007, 11:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Getting too many dang flats

had my bike (kona lana'i, entry level hardtail) maybe 5 months now and I've gotten more than a dozen flats.

Mostly thorns, but today just pissed me off. Correct psi, new tubes, tire checked for thorns or slices, good to go.

So I went over to Bonelli park today to get a lap in for the race coming up in the beginning of Oct. It's mostly fireroads, but very rocky in certain places. Medium sized somewhat sharp flat rocks. It must have been while coming downhill because at a couple times I heard rocks pop out from under my rear. I eventually stopped and noticed a flat front, with the rear having a slow leak. By the time I replace the front with a patched tube I noticed the rear was getting there.

Ended up walking my bike a mile back to my car.

Here's where I need some suggestions. I'm 190lbs, and I knew these tires were cheap when I got the bike. They're 1.95 and seem thin, or rounded, definately not some of the stuff I saw when I was at the loop a couple thursdays ago. CST Crusader 26x1.95 is what is on them from the factory.

So is it just a combination of the tires plus my weight plus terrain? I'd like to get new tires from Jenson or Incycle tomorrow or tuesday, so is there anything that'll handle rocks and be easy to climb with? I do mostly beginner type XC, and actually the downhill rocky sections of anything have me more hesitant than I used to be after crashing pretty bad a month or so ago
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Old 08-19-2007, 11:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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check out stans-no tubes. www.notubes.com
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Old 08-19-2007, 11:53 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Here's a simple--yet VERY effective solution:

1. If you run Presta tubes, drill out the rims so they will accept Schrader valved tubes. If you already run Schrader, skip to step #2.
2. Buy 2 new tubes.
3. Buy one bottle of Stan's Tire Sealant.
4. Remove valve cores from new tubes.
5. Add 2-3 ounces of Stan's to each tube.
6. Replace valve cores, install tubes.
7. Go ride, comforted by the fact that you are now (nearly) impervious to flats.

OR...

If you have the $$, buy some UST rims and go tubeless. Just my opinion, but I'm not a big fan of converting non-UST rims to tubeless. Lots of trouble and horror stories I've heard and seen first hand.

Tire pressure helps too. To prevent pinch flats, I don't like to ever go below 35 psi.
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Old 08-19-2007, 11:58 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I am riding on Panaracer Cinders (2.25 up front, 2.1 in the rear) right now with Maxxis welter weight tubes for about 3 months now. They have been doing well for me, no flats yet and I weigh in at about 235-240 with gear. They roll pretty well and climb very well.
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Go with a set of 2.1 Kenda Nevegals and pump them up to 40 psi for Bonelli.
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjammin View Post
check out stans-no tubes. www.notubes.com

I have been running stan's rimslaced onto both of my 29er's and completely issue free since installing the tires... Now I need a similar set up for the new Yeti..

Pacman has a very simple and inexpensive way to make this work as well
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjammin View Post
check out stans-no tubes. www.notubes.com
x2
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Old 08-20-2007, 01:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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how is that any more effective than those Slime tubes you see everywhere? I tried those once and it might have just been me, but they seemed to weigh a noticeable difference and didn't work.

I think I'm going to order those Nevegals and a quart of stan's and pray to any god out there.
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Definitely change the tires, sounds like you're problem is pinch-flatting. I've had good luck with Maxxis Larsen's or CrossMark's, 2.1's.
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidB View Post
how is that any more effective than those Slime tubes you see everywhere? I tried those once and it might have just been me, but they seemed to weigh a noticeable difference and didn't work.

I think I'm going to order those Nevegals and a quart of stan's and pray to any god out there.
There's no comparison between Stan's No Tubes and other tire sealant's out there. You won't have another thorn-induced flat with Stan's. It's best if you convert your rims to tubeless in my opinion but even if you stick with your current set-up, Stan's is the way to go.

I've never personally used the Slime tubes but, like you said, they are heavy and the word is they don't work anywhere near as well.

Nothing is gonna help if you tear out the sidewall (even Stan's), but for thorns, etc. you can't go wrong with this product

Side note: While spending more money on components doesn't always equate to better quality, it usually does nine times out of ten, especially with tires. Not just with regard to flats but, more importantly, in terms of performance. If you're a beginner, a good set of tires that are right for the terrain will boost your confidence/riding ability more than just about anything else on the bike
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Old 08-20-2007, 07:41 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidB View Post
how is that any more effective than those Slime tubes you see everywhere? I tried those once and it might have just been me, but they seemed to weigh a noticeable difference and didn't work.

I think I'm going to order those Nevegals and a quart of stan's and pray to any god out there.
SLIME used to work. When I got into MTB'ing 4 years ago, I used SLIME and never got flats--ever. Then they changed the formula or something (it has little black flecks of something in it now) and it doesn't work near as well as it used to.

I got fed up with it and went to Stan's on my SS and it works wonders. I'm waiting for Jenson's parking lot sale to buy a bunch of new tubes, then I'm going to switch all my bikes over.
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PacMan View Post
Here's a simple--yet VERY effective solution:

1. If you run Presta tubes, drill out the rims so they will accept Schrader valved tubes. If you already run Schrader, skip to step #2.
2. Buy 2 new tubes.
3. Buy one bottle of Stan's Tire Sealant.
4. Remove valve cores from new tubes.
5. Add 2-3 ounces of Stan's to each tube.
6. Replace valve cores, install tubes.
7. Go ride, comforted by the fact that you are now (nearly) impervious to flats.

OR...

If you have the $$, buy some UST rims and go tubeless. Just my opinion, but I'm not a big fan of converting non-UST rims to tubeless. Lots of trouble and horror stories I've heard and seen first hand.

Tire pressure helps too. To prevent pinch flats, I don't like to ever go below 35 psi.
great suggestion One thing....you can find Presta tubes with removeable valve cores
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:55 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 29wheels View Post
great suggestion One thing....you can find Presta tubes with removeable valve cores
Really? I had no idea. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:00 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PacMan View Post
Really? I had no idea. Thanks for the heads up.
Some folks cut a tiny hole in the tube and put the sealant in and then patch it.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:03 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I think all the suggestions are ok, but we haven't addressed the type of flat you're having. Are you getting punctures from thorns? Or are you getting pinch flats (identified as either one or two very short slices)?

For pinch flats, the first thing that should be checked is pressure. However, since I don't know the accuracy of your gauge (more are typically very inaccurate), there is no point in asking the pressure you're running.

Sure, the larger tires people have mentioned would help, but long before these tires were available, us 190# people did just fine with 1.95 tires - with the right amount of air pressure. The right amount is usually determined through trial and error for the type of terrain you're riding on - more sharp-edged rocks, more air pressure.

The larger tires will allow you to run a little less air pressure while offering good traction. Stan's or "notubes" will not help pinch-flat related problems. I've pinched and torn the sidewalls of many UST-specific tires, non-UST tires are even worse when run tubeless.

My suggestions for pinch flats (in order):
1. Try 5 psi more pressure to both tires. Still pinch flatting - add more psi
2. Don't hit sharp-edged rocks, and try to ride a little more smoothly through the rocks (this ability comes with experience).
3. Try different tires. There are so many good tires available, you almost can't go wrong.
4. Repeat #1 and 2.

For thorns:
1. Make sure to always stay in the well-traveled portion of the trail. Don't veer to the side (as odd as this sounds, it works).
2. Don't ride through thorns.
3. Fill your tubes with Stan's (save going tubeless for later, when you have good UST tires on UST rims).
4. Repeat #1 and 2.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:08 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheel_lee View Post
I think all the suggestions are ok, but we haven't addressed the type of flat you're having. Are you getting punctures from thorns? Or are you getting pinch flats (identified as either one or two very short slices)?

For pinch flats, the first thing that should be checked is pressure. However, since I don't know the accuracy of your gauge (more are typically very inaccurate), there is no point in asking the pressure you're running.

Sure, the larger tires people have mentioned would help, but long before these tires were available, us 190# people did just fine with 1.95 tires - with the right amount of air pressure. The right amount is usually determined through trial and error for the type of terrain you're riding on - more sharp-edged rocks, more air pressure.

The larger tires will allow you to run a little less air pressure while offering good traction. Stan's or "notubes" will not help pinch-flat related problems. I've pinched and torn the sidewalls of many UST-specific tires, non-UST tires are even worse when run tubeless.

My suggestions for pinch flats (in order):
1. Try 5 psi more pressure to both tires. Still pinch flatting - add more psi
2. Don't hit sharp-edged rocks, and try to ride a little more smoothly through the rocks (this ability comes with experience).
3. Try different tires. There are so many good tires available, you almost can't go wrong.
4. Repeat #1 and 2.

For thorns:
1. Make sure to always stay in the well-traveled portion of the trail. Don't veer to the side (as odd as this sounds, it works).
2. Don't ride through thorns.
3. Fill your tubes with Stan's (save going tubeless for later, when you have good UST tires on UST rims).
4. Repeat #1 and 2.
He stated that most of his flats were from thorns--second paragraph.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:16 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheel_lee View Post
For thorns:
1. Make sure to always stay in the well-traveled portion of the trail. Don't veer to the side (as odd as this sounds, it works).
2. Don't ride through thorns.
3. Fill your tubes with Stan's (save going tubeless for later, when you have good UST tires on UST rims).
4. Repeat #1 and 2.
Yeah what he said If the problem is thorns just follow rule # 2 and don't ride through thorns
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:22 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PacMan View Post
He stated that most of his flats were from thorns--second paragraph.
Ah yes...forgot that after reading about the rocks.
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Old 08-20-2007, 09:42 AM   #19 (permalink)
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thanks guys!

but as of late they've been pinch flats if anything when at Bonelli. That's why I started paying attention to psi but still ending up with two flats in a trip.

A few of my flats have come from rocks shredding through the sidewall. This is what I hope to avoid, as thorns are just a problem when riding off trail or in places I know they're frequent.
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Old 08-20-2007, 10:02 AM   #20 (