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#1 (permalink) |
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^needs to ride more
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had my bike (kona lana'i, entry level hardtail) maybe 5 months now and I've gotten more than a dozen flats.
Mostly thorns, but today just pissed me off. Correct psi, new tubes, tire checked for thorns or slices, good to go. So I went over to Bonelli park today to get a lap in for the race coming up in the beginning of Oct. It's mostly fireroads, but very rocky in certain places. Medium sized somewhat sharp flat rocks. It must have been while coming downhill because at a couple times I heard rocks pop out from under my rear. I eventually stopped and noticed a flat front, with the rear having a slow leak. By the time I replace the front with a patched tube I noticed the rear was getting there. Ended up walking my bike a mile back to my car. Here's where I need some suggestions. I'm 190lbs, and I knew these tires were cheap when I got the bike. They're 1.95 and seem thin, or rounded, definately not some of the stuff I saw when I was at the loop a couple thursdays ago. CST Crusader 26x1.95 is what is on them from the factory. So is it just a combination of the tires plus my weight plus terrain? I'd like to get new tires from Jenson or Incycle tomorrow or tuesday, so is there anything that'll handle rocks and be easy to climb with? I do mostly beginner type XC, and actually the downhill rocky sections of anything have me more hesitant than I used to be after crashing pretty bad a month or so ago |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Yeti. Turner. Niner.
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Here's a simple--yet VERY effective solution:
1. If you run Presta tubes, drill out the rims so they will accept Schrader valved tubes. If you already run Schrader, skip to step #2. 2. Buy 2 new tubes. 3. Buy one bottle of Stan's Tire Sealant. 4. Remove valve cores from new tubes. 5. Add 2-3 ounces of Stan's to each tube. 6. Replace valve cores, install tubes. 7. Go ride, comforted by the fact that you are now (nearly) impervious to flats. OR... If you have the $$, buy some UST rims and go tubeless. Just my opinion, but I'm not a big fan of converting non-UST rims to tubeless. Lots of trouble and horror stories I've heard and seen first hand. Tire pressure helps too. To prevent pinch flats, I don't like to ever go below 35 psi.
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Less typing...more riding. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I am riding on Panaracer Cinders (2.25 up front, 2.1 in the rear) right now with Maxxis welter weight tubes for about 3 months now. They have been doing well for me, no flats yet and I weigh in at about 235-240 with gear. They roll pretty well and climb very well.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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P. W. R.
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Quote:
I have been running stan's rimslaced onto both of my 29er's and completely issue free since installing the tires... Now I need a similar set up for the new Yeti.. Pacman has a very simple and inexpensive way to make this work as well ![]()
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Your actions speak so loud I can't hear a word your saying ![]() Big Thanks to ::: http://www.thepathbikeshop.com/ |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Baker.
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Quote:
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tkblazer: pump and dump. pho'd up: plan on having them strap on... pain freak: We do it almost every day at work. |
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bjammin (08-20-2007)
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#8 (permalink) |
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^needs to ride more
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how is that any more effective than those Slime tubes you see everywhere? I tried those once and it might have just been me, but they seemed to weigh a noticeable difference and didn't work.
I think I'm going to order those Nevegals and a quart of stan's and pray to any god out there. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Exiled Brit
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I've never personally used the Slime tubes but, like you said, they are heavy and the word is they don't work anywhere near as well. Nothing is gonna help if you tear out the sidewall (even Stan's), but for thorns, etc. you can't go wrong with this product ![]() Side note: While spending more money on components doesn't always equate to better quality, it usually does nine times out of ten, especially with tires. Not just with regard to flats but, more importantly, in terms of performance. If you're a beginner, a good set of tires that are right for the terrain will boost your confidence/riding ability more than just about anything else on the bike ![]()
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"Britain and America...two great nations divided by the same language." -- Winston Churchill |
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davidB (08-20-2007)
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Yeti. Turner. Niner.
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Quote:
I got fed up with it and went to Stan's on my SS and it works wonders. I'm waiting for Jenson's parking lot sale to buy a bunch of new tubes, then I'm going to switch all my bikes over.
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Less typing...more riding. |
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davidB (08-20-2007)
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#12 (permalink) | |
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^^^^^^^^^^^
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One thing....you can find Presta tubes with removeable valve cores![]()
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As it seems that this thread may be headed for the usuall as of late STR Down hill spiral JSims |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Old School BMXer
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I think all the suggestions are ok, but we haven't addressed the type of flat you're having. Are you getting punctures from thorns? Or are you getting pinch flats (identified as either one or two very short slices)?
For pinch flats, the first thing that should be checked is pressure. However, since I don't know the accuracy of your gauge (more are typically very inaccurate), there is no point in asking the pressure you're running. Sure, the larger tires people have mentioned would help, but long before these tires were available, us 190# people did just fine with 1.95 tires - with the right amount of air pressure. The right amount is usually determined through trial and error for the type of terrain you're riding on - more sharp-edged rocks, more air pressure. The larger tires will allow you to run a little less air pressure while offering good traction. Stan's or "notubes" will not help pinch-flat related problems. I've pinched and torn the sidewalls of many UST-specific tires, non-UST tires are even worse when run tubeless. My suggestions for pinch flats (in order): 1. Try 5 psi more pressure to both tires. Still pinch flatting - add more psi 2. Don't hit sharp-edged rocks, and try to ride a little more smoothly through the rocks (this ability comes with experience). 3. Try different tires. There are so many good tires available, you almost can't go wrong. 4. Repeat #1 and 2. For thorns: 1. Make sure to always stay in the well-traveled portion of the trail. Don't veer to the side (as odd as this sounds, it works). 2. Don't ride through thorns. 3. Fill your tubes with Stan's (save going tubeless for later, when you have good UST tires on UST rims). 4. Repeat #1 and 2.
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Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you. May the air be filled with tires! |
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davidB (08-20-2007)
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Yeti. Turner. Niner.
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Quote:
__________________
Less typing...more riding. |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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P. W. R.
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Quote:
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__________________
Your actions speak so loud I can't hear a word your saying ![]() Big Thanks to ::: http://www.thepathbikeshop.com/ |
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davidB (08-20-2007)
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#19 (permalink) |
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^needs to ride more
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thanks guys!
but as of late they've been pinch flats if anything when at Bonelli. That's why I started paying attention to psi but still ending up with two flats in a trip. A few of my flats have come from rocks shredding through the sidewall. This is what I hope to avoid, as thorns are just a problem when riding off trail or in places I know they're frequent. |
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#20 ( |











