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Old 03-28-2007, 09:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Really Stuck BB, worst ever.

im trying to remove a shimano square taper BB out of an aluminum frame. i let penetrating oil sit on/in the BB for about 2 hours and took an impact to it, no budge. then used a 1.5 foot breaker bar, no budge.. ideas? i was thinking of taking a little heat to it, but weary because of the aluminum. any suggestions would be nice, normally it doesnt take this much muscle to get a BB off.. thanks!
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If by heat you're talking about a propane torch, you should be okay as far as not really affecting the heat treat. Not to bring up a stupid point, but you were turning it the correct direction to loosen it right?

Chris
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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in case you're not turning the right way...try turning the opposite of the direction you turn the cranks when you ride
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i have 3 BMX bikes with euro BB, yeah, one cup is always left hand thread (left foot) its a question everyone has to ask, some people still dont know this.. lol. yeah, thats what i meant by heat. not much. thanks guys.

oh yeah, why is one side of the cup sticking out a bit and grey in color, and the other flush fitted and chrome?? what side should i break loose first??
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Last edited by FyrFytrRyn; 03-28-2007 at 09:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey ok thats your first problem loosen the non drive side first then the drive side. Turn it the direction in which you crank when you pedal to loosen. so on drive side you turn it clockwise to loosen. and on non drive side you turn it counter clockwise. The reason that is set up that way is shimano used plastic non drive cups and the drive cup is part of the bb or a steel cup that comes off this is how most of the shimano bb's were set up i think it was for slight variations in shell width
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Old 03-29-2007, 08:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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wowzers, i thought both sides loostened in the direction DIDNT pedal, whoops. ill try it today when i got out of class. thanks for the important info zen...
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Old 03-29-2007, 05:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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that's what i thought too
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Old 03-29-2007, 06:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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let me know how it worked out I am sure that after having the impact and torque bar on it it is still going to be tough
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DEUCE 6'ER LOCO'S FOR LIFE
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Old 03-29-2007, 10:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Default don't be gentile

Don't **** around with a tight bb, thay usually get alot worse befor they get better. I mean I have seen many people strip the bb out so the tool will not interface anymore.
1: get the right tool attached to the non drive side.
2: make shure you don't have a Italian bb where the non-drive side is reversed.
3: fix the bb tool to the bb usine the threads inside the spindle or on it.
4: use a 3-4 ft breaker bar and apply a hard constant force, don't use a hammer, that just strips the tool

I have used this to remove bb's out of many frames that other shops have given up on.
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Old 03-30-2007, 10:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
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finally got it...
method: DGAF, the frame was free.. haha.
1: sprayed WD40 down the seat tube and let sit overnight
2: heated mildly with propane torch.
3: stood on top of the breaker with my weight as to not let it slipout of the bracket.
4: put the whammy on it with a 10. lb sledge.

popped loose. and was easy going from there, no loc-tite or anything, aparently some one used heavy force to install it. ill use your method next time zink, if it happends again. thanks guys!
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Old 03-30-2007, 12:52 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Gabe, it's Stephen from Chico.

What's up man, how have you been?
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that's my email or go to myspace and type in my name and you can contact me that way as well. Let me know how things are and what you've been up to man.
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