Rear hub question...

[gurp13]

So, I bought some cone wrenches and decided to overhaul the hubs on my commuter, a 1994 Trek 830. As far as I can tell, all went well. I'm not sure if I put enough grease on it, though. I followed the Zinn book's instructions and it indicated that too much grease would load up the bearings and cause the hub to be slow. I mean, I greased the races and the cones and all. I put what I would judge to be an ample amount on there. So, one question would be... How do you know if you put enough grease in there?

So, then, I put the cones back in. I snugged them up finger-tight and then put the wrenches on them. I barely turned the cones at all before the hub felt wrong. It felt like it turned really roughly. Is that normal?

Okay, so my last question... My hub is Shimano. The bearings are free, not in a cartridge. On the side opposite the drive, a rubber boot sits over the cone and the spacers. It also rubs on the hub itself and slows the wheel. Do I need that rubber boot on there? Can I take it off?

[uzziboy]

when you put the hub back together you made sure there was no old grease on any parts whatsoever correct? just a thin coating of grease should do it do you have a grease gun? that is the way I do it. Also do you have a manual from shimano?

It should not feel rough when together maybe a little hard to turn axle if you tightened the cones too tight but not rough maybe something is not seated right. A bearing?

I would not remove anything that was originally in it it is there for a reason. I hope I have helped a little if you have any ? email me back

[Pain Freak]

Now you did it!

[gurp13]

Yeah, I cleaned those things as much as I could. I couldn't remove the cassette so I got a rag and pushed it around with a screwdriver and with my pinky. I was able to remove the dust cover on the other side, though, at it was clean. I used solvent on the bearings, the cones, etc, but not on the hub itself. No, I don't have a grease gun, just a tube of Pedro's grease and a clean pinky finger.

[uzziboy]

you really need to remove the cassette you can pick up a chain whip pretty cheap. but I highly recommend you do this, it is the only way to do it right. the pinky finger will do

[gurp13]

chain whip, check! already on my list of things to buy, along with a cassette lockring removal tool.

You know, I was reading the Park tools site. It says there to grease the axle. But, the Zinn book only says grease the races and the cones. Which is right?

[SAR_boats]

Originally Posted by gurp13

So, then, I put the cones back in. I snugged them up finger-tight and then put the wrenches on them. I barely turned the cones at all before the hub felt wrong. It felt like it turned really roughly. Is that normal?

Okay, so my last question... My hub is Shimano. The bearings are free, not in a cartridge. On the side opposite the drive, a rubber boot sits over the cone and the spacers. It also rubs on the hub itself and slows the wheel. Do I need that rubber boot on there? Can I take it off?

The rubber boot is what keeps the grease in the hub and keeps it from running out as the wheel turns and also acts as a dust shield to keep dirt out so yes, you need it, unless you are doing a race setup where you are going to grease before and after and are willing to trade long term reliability for that extra bit of lesser drag. A wee bit of grease on the rubber where it contacts the hub will help with the frition issue.

The rough feeling is actually kind of normal. Put a bit more lube in and it will smooth up a bit. But remember, you used solvent to get the old grease out and until the new grease gets all the way into the bearings it will run a bit rough.
Loosening the hub is a bad idea. The bearings must have the proper amount of preload to durably distribute your weight. That rough feeling is noticeable when the wheel is off but not when you ride. When in doubt, always err on the side of a little too much torque. Too much and the hub will simply run stiff. Too little and the bearing will not seat in the race correctly and not only will the hub move laterally and give you a vague feeling while riding but also will cause pre-mature bearing wear and in some cases catasrophic failure should the bearing keeper destruct.

As for how much lube to run, again err on the side of a bit much. If you do put too much grease on the bearings the excess will be pushed out as you ride and will either live inside the hub body until the next time you clean them or will work its way out onto the cassette which will grease your chain (not a bad thing) which again is where that rubber boot comes in. It creates a high point that causes extra grease to flow towards the drive side(low point). Obviously too little grease causes heat and bearing wear

After you get achain whip and lockring tool don't forget to lube your freehub and pawls. They need love too.

Hope this helps

[gurp13]

Thanks, SAR boats. That's a very detailed answer and much appreciated. The only question I have left is whether the axle itself needs grease. I think I'm going to take the hub apart again and put a little more grease in there and then tighten it a hair more. Gracias!

Oh, and I plan to lube my freewheel assembly. That's the main reason I want the cassette tools. Good tip!

[SAR_boats]

a thin coating of grease won't hurt on the axle

[gurp13]

You know, I looked at your answer again, SAR, I checked for lateral play on the hub and didn't feel anything, especially when I put it on the bike. It felt really good when I rode it, too (albeit a short short test ride). I was looking for lateral play. Zinn indicated that the Quick Release would push in more and that hubs with QR needed to be just slightly loose. Does that sound right?

[SAR_boats]

Originally Posted by gurp13

You know, I looked at your answer again, SAR, I checked for lateral play on the hub and didn't feel anything, especially when I put it on the bike. It felt really good when I rode it, too (albeit a short short test ride). I was looking for lateral play. Zinn indicated that the Quick Release would push in more and that hubs with QR needed to be just slightly loose. Does that sound right?

No, it doesn't. The reason why is because the QRs put pressure on the axel nuts, not the bearings. The reason is because the axel nuts thread on. The QRs basically pinch the dropouts between the nut and the spacer on the QR itself on either side of the hub.
You can put as much pressure as you want on the nuts with the QRs and it won't transfer to the bearings because of the threads.
So, basically, no, don't leave them loose. Good rule of thumb to start with is finger tight plus 1/4-1/2 turn. If it still feels loose give it more.
As for not feeling any looseness, you may not feel any looseness in the rear but it doesn't mean your bearings are tight enough.

[gurp13]

Cool, thanks!

[fueleater]

I learned from a few bike mechanics that using automotive bearing grease is perfect for repacking hubs. In fact they say its better than some of the Park Grease.

Just my two cents...

[SAR_boats]

Auto bearing grease is a great lube from a durability standpoint however since it is such high viscosity it causes more drag.

[dirttorpeedo]

Originally Posted by gurp13

Yeah, I cleaned those things as much as I could. I couldn't remove the cassette so I got a rag and pushed it around with a screwdriver and with my pinky. I was able to remove the dust cover on the other side, though, at it was clean. I used solvent on the bearings, the cones, etc, but not on the hub itself. No, I don't have a grease gun, just a tube of Pedro's grease and a clean pinky finger.

no boogies on the pinkie? gurp?

[gurp13]

Originally Posted by dirttorpeedo

no boogies on the pinkie? gurp?

While it's true that I have found a little bearing grease really does make it easier to get my finger way up in my nostril to truly dig out those deep boogers, my wife gets embarassed by the black smudges on my nose. So, I had to quit picking my nose while working on my bike. I only do it when I'm driving or watching TV now. It's cleaner.

[jfromlv]

Originally Posted by gurp13

While it's true that I have found a little bearing grease really does make it easier to get my finger way up in my nostril to truly dig out those deep boogers, my wife gets embarassed by the black smudges on my nose. So, I had to quit picking my nose while working on my bike. I only do it when I'm driving or watching TV now. It's cleaner.

How's the flicking action with grease on the finger?

[gurp13]

Oh, you can't flick. The grease provides too much viscosity and I could get lost for hours trying to flick a booger with grease on my finger. No, this is a wipe-only situation.

[Rockinthecasbah]

For a chain whip you can use one of those boa wrenches a piece of rubber with a plastic handle they were on tv for awhile and they work great you can find them super cheap at harbor feight or anywhere like that

[SAR_boats]

Originally Posted by Rockinthecasbah

For a chain whip you can use one of those boa wrenches a piece of rubber with a plastic handle they were on tv for awhile and they work great you can find them super cheap at harbor feight or anywhere like that

Old thread bro. But thanks for the idea.