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#1 (permalink) |
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STR Veteran
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I have been having a problem with my valve stem leaking below the lockdown "nut" on my tires as of late. I have replaced the valve and the rim tape appears to be fine. I have also checked and even added more stans and it still leaks...
Any suggestions?
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"It doesn't get any easier, you just go faster." Greg LeMond |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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^needs to ride more
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I had the same problem and it took me forever to get it to seal. I had to manipulate the sealant to get it to seal the hole as it would normally just fall to the tire. I shook the wheel vertically if that makes any sense. On a sort of related note, add some glitter to your sealant, it helps with some of the bigger holes.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Stop stealing my thunder!
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Or you can try turning the locking nut 1/2 to 1 full turn past finger tight with pliers. Make sure you did not cut away too much of the yellow tape from the valve hole area. If you did you can always build it up again with a small strip over the hole.
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"To take yourself too seriously is foolish. To take what I say seriously is just plain stupid!" - Wise Vietnamese man |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Bike Whisperer
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Try an O-ring or maybe some Rubber cement or a contact adhesive?
It's not the space shuttle after all. When I went Ghetto UST the thing that worked best was threading in a metal Schrader valve stem from a car, with an O-ring it sealed both walls of the rim perfectly. Still I guess all the hassle is better than spending two bucks on a tube but they must weigh like 50 grams or so. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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bikeaholic
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I actually use Silicone sealant to in essence "glue" in the valve. You can either install the valve while the Silicone caulk is still wet, or lay down an o-ring type application of the silicone and then install the valve once its dry. If you decide you don't like it or want to remove the silicone, it comes off very easily.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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STR Veteran
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One of my wheels worked fine with just "finger tight". The other required pliers to get a good seal. |
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schleppp (08-21-2008)
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#7 (permalink) | |
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P. W. R.
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But do not get carried away with the pliers you can pull the rubber on the valve through the inner serface of the wheel and it will never seal...
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#8 (permalink) | |
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^needs to ride more
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I kept trying to tighten it with pliers with half turns and it wouldn't seal. Kept trying, and essentially pulled the rubber end of the valve stem back through the rim
![]() edit: lol j_sims beat me to it. oddly enough mine still sealed. I only realized it when i took the tire off to retape it because i had a leak at a spoke edit #2: I have better luck with the Mavic valve stems and their o-rings
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Last edited by davidB; 08-21-2008 at 11:18 AM. Reason: why not |
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#11 (permalink) |
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vincit qui patitur
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I've had luck with the "vertical shaking" method to slosh the stan's up there and seal the valve.
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Present suffering is not enjoyable, but life would be worth little without it. The difference between iron and steel is fire, but steel is worth all it costs. Single Minded Endurance |
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schleppp (08-21-2008)
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#13 (permalink) |
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STR Veteran
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I have tried the shaking thing and it slowed down the leak but never really stopped it all together.
I am trying to stay away from tubes, but who knows? I may get tired of messing with this.
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"It doesn't get any easier, you just go faster." Greg LeMond |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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STR Veteran
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Quote:
![]() It seems to be holding up pretty good right now, no loss of pressure since last night. Thanks again everyone!
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"It doesn't get any easier, you just go faster." Greg LeMond |
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It's not the space shuttle after all. When I went Ghetto UST the thing that worked best was threading in a metal Schrader valve stem from a car, with an O-ring it sealed both walls of the rim perfectly. Still I guess all the hassle is better than spending two bucks on a tube but they must weigh like 50 grams or so.





