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Old 07-18-2008, 10:54 AM   #1 (permalink)
Clyde Riding Big Wheels
 
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Default Brakes

Im about 300lbs and I ride a diamondback overdrive 29er. It has disk brakes but I have found I would really like more stopping power. How hard is it, and would it be worth it to go up to bigger rotors. Would it give me more stopping power? I have started riding at Snow Summit and have been having a ball but slowing down from almost 30 mph takes forever...

Josh
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:55 AM   #2 (permalink)
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what size are they now? 160? 185?

edit: you have 160's, and yeah, 185 would stop a heck of a lot better.

You should be able to pick up 2 new rotors, as well as 2 adapters to go bigger (both available at just about any decent mtb shop)

but then again you might just need new pads if you've been on them for a while
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Old 07-18-2008, 10:59 AM   #3 (permalink)
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What model and size brakes are they? Are they new or have they been properly bedded in?
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
Clyde Riding Big Wheels
 
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i think they said they were 5in. What would the adapters run price wise?

I know they are made by Hayes... They are fairly new I dont know what bedding in is

They are HMX-4 's with a 6 in rotor... I know they do get REALLY hot. They stop fine untill get up to speed around 20 mph and then they either lock up the tires or just dont stop... Is it me?
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:07 AM   #5 (permalink)
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So upon further research I see you have 160mm/6" Hayes HMX-4 mechanical brakes. Rather than spend the money on bigger rotors and adapters, for almost the same price, I'd suggest these instead:

203mm/8" Avid BB7


They are nearly as good as some of the better hydraulic brakes out there.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:07 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Never mind Pato beat me to it.

Another option would be wait for a decent set of Hydraulic brakes to come up here for sale. People seem to be selling of used ones in perfectly working condition all the time.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:11 AM   #7 (permalink)
Clyde Riding Big Wheels
 
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Would it make a difference in braking/ slowing power?
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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for your size your friggen nuts to be rollin mechanical disc, deffintley upgrade to hydrualic brakes, with at least a 6" rotor. 1x1clyde is runnign 7" rotors on his rigid retroteck.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:20 AM   #9 (permalink)
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But they are expensive... I already have enough debt... Although I do find it funny they the brakes for my bike cost the same as the ones for my car.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traumadiver View Post
They are fairly new I dont know what bedding in is
Bedding in is the process of mating the brake pads with the rotor. New disk brakes suck donkey b@11$ when it comes to stopping. What you need to do is this. On a safe area get up to full speed then slam on the brakes. Be careful to get your weight back so you don't go OTB. Repeat about 20-30 times and this will bed in your brakes. I'd try this out first before replacing parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by traumadiver View Post
they either lock up the tires or just dont stop... Is it me?
If they are locking up then that's all the braking power you need. There is no more power necessary if you can lock up your brakes. Do you have to really put on the death grip to get the bike to slow or do the brakes lock up easily? If they lock up fairly easily then you will need to learn proper weight shifting and brake feathering techniques. It's also possible the tires are not made for the trail conditions you are riding.

All that being said, at 3 bills I'd seriously look into a 200mm/8" rotor in the front and a 180mm/7" rotor out back. Especially if you want to hit any extended dh runs.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I think my LBS has some hydro discs on clearance. i'll check it out for you and let you know. If not i have a set of magura martas i'd be willing to part with for cheap. they've only been ridden like twice. they only have 6'' rotors but if you got new rotors and adapters youd be set with some pretty decent brakes.
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Old 07-18-2008, 11:39 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traumadiver View Post
But they are expensive... I already have enough debt... Although I do find it funny they the brakes for my bike cost the same as the ones for my car.
aint that the truth! keep a look out for a good set of take off's or somthing at your LBS or for now go with larger rotors. you can also try organic pads, the only down side is they wear a little quicker.
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Old 07-18-2008, 08:48 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by traumadiver View Post
But they are expensive... I already have enough debt... Although I do find it funny they the brakes for my bike cost the same as the ones for my car.

There are some things that you can skimp on, and some things you cant

Let me break it down for you

You can run a cheap drive train and at the very worst you will have to walk out in the middle of the ride after you grenade your rear derailler.

You can run cheap tires because all the extra money does is save weight and lessen rolling resistance.

You can buy a cheap helmet because every helmet in the US meets or exceeds the same CPSC safety and impact protection standards.


But....


Don't run cheap brakes. Or a cheap handlebar. Or a cheap seatpost.

Those brakes are the only thing keeping you from introducing yourself to the less pleasant side of gravity, and the sudden stop that follows shortly thereafter.

When you pull that lever on the handlebar, there should be no doubt in your mind that your brakes will stop you every time.

As for the handlebar and seatpost.....head-butting stems hurts after you break a cheap bar. And cheap seatpost enemas aren't fun either.
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Old 07-18-2008, 09:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I know how you feel with the brake problem im about 265(been gaining weight from weight lifting so i dont know anymore) and i run a pair of Hayes Nines and they work very well with 8" rotors on my DH rig and on my trail bike i have the same brakes with 6" rotors and there's a big difference in the stoping power between the 2
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Old 07-19-2008, 09:57 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chongoblanco View Post
for your size your friggen nuts to be rollin mechanical disc, deffintley upgrade to hydrualic brakes, with at least a 6" rotor. 1x1clyde is runnign 7" rotors on his rigid retroteck.
I was 300lbs a year ago. I went from smoking 160 hydros to never having brake fade with plenty of stopping power and no fading with 203mm Avid BB7 mechanical discs.

They will absolutely have more stopping power. You will have to fiddle a bit with them a bit here and there, but nothing difficult or messy.

I'd go with 185mm for the rear if I had it to do again.
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:16 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Just get some 203mm codes
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:22 AM   #17 (permalink)
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hydros or bb7s with rotors at the leeast
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Old 07-19-2008, 10:23 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtb_prodigy View Post
Just get some 203mm codes
My rear code brake broke! One of the pistons snapped. No Bueno. Thanks to SAR_boats, I have some new brakes. The Codes have been nothing but problems since I got them.

First they sounded like a dying elephant for the longest time, then they were very difficult to get dialed in. They worked pretty good 'till I went to NorthStar and then the rear brake piston snapped.

NOT happy at all.

Well, now I am because I have the Magura brakes that Chris hooked me up with.
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