Lubing XT hub wheel bearings

[EJ_92606]

For those that run the non sealed bearings in XT type hubs, what if anything do you use to lube your wheel bearings with and how often?

[2wheel_lee]

Those non-sealed bearing hubs are some of the best rolling hubs out there, and they're the most durable, providing you maintain them.

Because they are loose bearings, the XT hubs are relatively easy to take apart, clean, regrease, and reassemble. I'd use a relatively light synthetic or lithium grease. There are many great greases out there, and the Phil Wood grease is often recommended. "However, I'm not that partial to any one brand of grease, though.

How often you'll need to do this depends on your riding conditions and how you wash your bike. I would rebuild the hub, give it some time, and do it again. If the grease still looked really good, then perhaps you rebuilt them too soon; that's ok, wait longer next time. It's better to do maintenance too frequently than not often enough.

[DISCO]

If you want to give it a try get some cone wrenches for a standard QR it's typically a 15mm and a 5/8ths or 16mm on the outer nut. There are various tubs of soap based junk but I like to get tubes of the highest quality synthetic available. Pro-long was good, Phil's is better. Clean the old crap out with some paper towels and fill the cups and drop in the balls with the axle in to prevent drop out. You ought to wear gloves or let a shop do it but they will have the good grease anyway. If you try ace hardware there is a small grey tube for like four bucks that has served me well.

[EJ_92606]

Thanks guys, I'm going to give it a try myself. These hubs have never been serviced and are about 4 years old, but have been sitting on a shelf for the last 2 years...but their first two years they saw many thousands of miles of use. Probably not a bad idea to replace the bearings and cones at this point eh?

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by EJ_92606

Thanks guys, I'm going to give it a try myself. These hubs have never been serviced and are about 4 years old, but have been sitting on a shelf for the last 2 years...but their first two years they saw many thousands of miles of use. Probably not a bad idea to replace the bearings and cones at this point eh?

I'd check them before replacing them. They may be in great condition.

[DISCO]

Yeah and even if they are galled, pitted and scored from Cavitation a little grease will go a long way. Resist the urge to use one of those needle tipped grease guns that spew cheap white lithium, it wont last unless you get all the dirt and powdered heavy metal out.

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by DISCO

Yeah and even if they are galled, pitted and scored from Cavitation a little grease will go a long way. Resist the urge to use one of those needle tipped grease guns that spew cheap white lithium, it wont last unless you get all the dirt and powdered heavy metal out.

I don't think you meant "cavitation." Cavitation is described as the rapid formation and collapse of vapor pockets in a flowing liquid in regions of very low pressure, a frequent cause of structural damage to propellers, pumps, etc.

But if the bearings, races, or cones are galled, pitted, or scored, replace them. They may last for a while, but their life is very limited.

[DISCO]

Makes want to search for the Video of Captain Kirk saying "dont correct me it sickens me".

You are correct sir cavitation requires some kind of liquid and few of us ever get our grease that hot. For finding today's secret word you get a cookie, or rather whats left after the G.I. Tract is done with it.

Still crunchy cups and cones can eventually re-bed if not too far gone. My favorite is when people keep riding the cups after all the balls have dropped, leaves that really cool shoulder on the axle. (tre Flinstone)

[boludo]

Its an easy process. You can get the lube from just about anywhere. I used the stuff i found at performance. It worked, but i had to clean the hubs more often. The best I ever had was some very thick red stuff i bought 15 yrs ago. cant find it though.

just make sure you tighten the nuts back right. I had the problem of the cups being too tight when i closed the QRs. I did not use a cone wrench which is probably the problem.

[Winger]

Make sure you only unscrew 1 side of the axle so you keep the spacing the same.

I'd like to do mine once per year, or every 2000 miles.

[EJ_92606]

Originally Posted by boludo

Its an easy process. You can get the lube from just about anywhere. I used the stuff i found at performance. It worked, but i had to clean the hubs more often. The best I ever had was some very thick red stuff i bought 15 yrs ago. cant find it though.

just make sure you tighten the nuts back right. I had the problem of the cups being too tight when i closed the QRs. I did not use a cone wrench which is probably the problem.

Ya I have a decent selection of grease/oils so that's not a problem, I had just heard that some say to use oil in open bearings like this and not grease...but it seems to be the consensus from what I'm reading here and on the web to use grease. Thanks.!

[Team Smitty]

I recently rebuilt my XT rear hub and it doesn’t get much easier. It all started when I was having what I thought was ghost shifting issues. The bike is fairly well maintained so I started to replace drive line items; chain first then the cassette, still had sporadic “shifting” problems. I finely diagnosed the freehub was skipping.

A new freehub and 18 new bearings at 10 cents each has my old XT hub working like new again.

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by EJ_92606

Ya I have a decent selection of grease/oils so that's not a problem, I had just heard that some say to use oil in open bearings like this and not grease...but it seems to be the consensus from what I'm reading here and on the web to use grease. Thanks.!

The idea of using oil in the hubs instead of grease comes from track bikes (fixed-geard bikes that are race around an indoor wooden oval track). For minimum resistance, most racers use oil instead of grease. Many hubs designed for this purpose also have no seals. Considering that there are no contaminants to worry about oil is just fine.

Stick with grease.

[DirtymikeTDB]

I am doing the roadie wheels this weekend myself, personal favorite for grease are Phil wood of coarse, but also if your looking for that stupid smooth and fast roll, you can use slick honey, just know that it wont last as long as proper grease. Any poly synthetic grease will work.



P.S. Stay away from Lithium greases, that type os grease is designed for metal sliding on metal, not rolling. Whatever you get, make sure its approved for bearing use.

[EJ_92606]

Originally Posted by Team Smitty

I recently rebuilt my XT rear hub and it doesn’t get much easier. It all started when I was having what I thought was ghost shifting issues. The bike is fairly well maintained so I started to replace drive line items; chain first then the cassette, still had sporadic “shifting” problems. I finely diagnosed the freehub was skipping.

A new freehub and 18 new bearings at 10 cents each has my old XT hub working like new again.

Excellent...glad to hear it. Just curious, what does an XT freehub cost? Did you have to order it or do shops stock them?

[DirtymikeTDB]

Originally Posted by EJ_92606

Excellent...glad to hear it. Just curious, what does an XT freehub cost? Did you have to order it or do shops stock them?

like 35-45 bucks. I might have some in stock, not sure though will need to check

[Team Smitty]

Originally Posted by EJ_92606

Excellent...glad to hear it. Just curious, what does an XT freehub cost? Did you have to order it or do shops stock them?

40 bucks at Switchback Cyclery.........and they had it in stock.

[Chewyeti]

why does shimano use loose ball bearings?

why not sealed rollers, or sealed ball cartidge?

[EJ_92606]

Originally Posted by Chewyeti

why does shimano use loose ball bearings?

why not sealed rollers, or sealed ball cartidge?

Not sure exactly, but its a bullet proof design that seems to last forever and spins very well...its probably less expensive than sealed bearings too.

[Chewyeti]

but sealed cartridge is great

like no maintenance ever.... if they die... you press em out and press new ones in