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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
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I have upgraded my shifter from an Sram SX-4 to a Sram X.7 and now I want upgrade the Sram SX-4 Rear Derailleur. I was browsing the internet and found a Sram X.7 Rear Derailleur for a good price but there are two size, Long and Medium and I am not sure which size I need. How do I determined which one I need?
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#5 (permalink) |
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Geddyup!
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What they said.
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Cowboy. http://www.thepathbikeshop.com/ Daily thought: some people are like slinkies - not really good for anything but they bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs! |
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vandeec5 (07-01-2008)
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
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1=short, 2=medium, and 3=long is a huge over-simplification. Running a larger cage than is necessary allows you a more sloppy/fuller range of gearing choices without trouble but reduces clearance, increases chain slap, and changes the feel of the shifts. This has been discussed to death on, ahem, another website.
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#8 (permalink) |
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On the Mend
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so if you're running a 2x9 setup w/ a 32/22 chainring you technically can run a short cage and a medium right?
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Pho'd Up: " Heart Rate Monitor + Road miles = fast. Chasing Neil, and Chris (Sar Boats) = Faster." www.coverageispersonal.com http://news.singletrackminded.com/ |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Granny Ringer
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Quote:
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foofighter (07-07-2008)
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
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Technically, yes. I've been running 44/32/22 with a medium cage, trading the slack uptake in 22/11-17ish for the benefits of the shorter cage. I don't use the 44t at all so I went to 32/22 last week and will be putting on a short cage.
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foofighter (07-07-2008)
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#11 (permalink) |
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Car pay DM
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Capacity is a specification of derailleurs. It's not always listed, but it is the difference between a short, medium, and long cage. If you are running 44/32/22 and 11-34 the derailleur must be able to take up (44-22) + (34-11) half-links of chain. In that case, 45 half-links (teeth) which is the difference between the big-big combo and small-small. Of course, you'd never shift into big-big on purpose, but you don't want stuff to break because of a shifting mistake.
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That feeling? That's just pain. Keep pedaling. |
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#13 (permalink) | ||||
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Dirtbag
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Absolutly, I think I frequent "Other" said website as well!!!
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Depending on what cassette..... Yes Quote:
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Extremly well said, I always forget the equation, thats why I have it written down!!! Quote:
One thing I want to add, I see ALOT of people coming in wanting a shorter cage derailer so they can shorten there chain lose a gram or two of weight. Just to make it extremly clear, chain length has NOTHING WHATSOEVER to do with your cage length. The proof is right in the "Manual" that comes with a derailer when you buy it, step one in setting up your chain/derailer is putting the chain on the bike, but not through the derailer in your two largest gears, wrap it as tightly as possible, and adding two links from there, then put the chain through the derailer. AGain one more thing added into the mix....... Full suspension.... STep one is to remove the shock, then do the same thing, but with the suspension in a position hat the axle is furthest from the BB during its travel......In other words, wrap the chain, then cycle the suspension and make sure that you find the longest stretch, then add two links!!!!!
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foofighter (07-02-2008)
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#14 (permalink) |
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On the Mend
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I am running a 34/11 cassette...
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Pho'd Up: " Heart Rate Monitor + Road miles = fast. Chasing Neil, and Chris (Sar Boats) = Faster." www.coverageispersonal.com http://news.singletrackminded.com/ |
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