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#1 (permalink) |
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Old Man Flyer
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HELP!
I just finished cleaning my bike during which I removed the rear wheel. Put it all back together and lubed the chain. After riding it around I noticed the rear brake had no power. I can pull the lever to the bar now. The rotor is dry and the pads are as far as I can tell. No squeaking while riding it. The pads don't appear to be out of adjustment. Does anyone have any ideas to try? I downloaded the hayes manual and it recommends bleeding them. They worked just fine prior to cleaning the bike and taking the wheel off. Thanks |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
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iv also had the problems hayes 9's i bled them and i have a lil preassure back in them but there not like they were .you can also try turning the lever screw so that the lever has more clearense.also try just pushing the pard back into the calipier then put the wheel on and squeeze them
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jhardeman (06-29-2008)
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#3 (permalink) |
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DFL > DNF
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You need to bleed them. It's a PITA to do it right. After you've done it, and you're "pretty sure" you did it right, turn your bike upside down for awhile then flip it over and immediatly test the brakes. If they're soft after that you didn't do it right.
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I was told there would be no climbing. |
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jhardeman (06-29-2008)
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#4 (permalink) |
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Old School BMXer
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As mentioned, you need to bleed them. Apparently, you already had a bubble in the system, and when you were working on the bike, the bubble moved to a place that is causing your brakes not to work.
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Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you. May the air be filled with tires! |
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#6 (permalink) |
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sandbagger
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You probably did.
Clean the rotors with some solvent and sandpaper the pads if they are contaminated as well. I'd try this before bleeding.
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Steve Just along for the ride Originally Posted by SheDevil Autoduel...yours is huge!!!
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| post thanked by: |
DirtymikeTDB (06-29-2008),
jhardeman (06-30-2008)
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Dirtbag
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Quote:
Many a time I have polished up the ol'beater, forgetting to wipe off the rotors afterwords only to find a severe lack of braking for the nest 500 yards of decent!!! |
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jhardeman (06-30-2008)
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#8 (permalink) |
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Bighit comming DOWN!!
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It happend to me. i was lubing and got some in the rotors and contaminated the pads. i soaked them in dishwasher soap and they worked fine or buy new ones...
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I Go Where Ever The Hills Take Me |
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jhardeman (06-30-2008),
mtb_prodigy (06-30-2008)
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#9 (permalink) |
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Old Man Flyer
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Thanks for all the responses.
Ok, so I've now cleaned the rotor with rubbing alcohol and lightly sanded the pads, checked the alignment and tried moving the lever adjustment screw in. Seems to make an improvement but still not as much power as the front brake. It will lock the back tire up but it requires a full squeeze to the bar. I do notice the pads on the front caliper seem to be closer to the rotor than the pads in the back. It seems to have more of a gap on both sides of the rotor in the back when compared to the front. I can't seem to find any google search that says the pads can be adjusted closer other than the lever adjustment screw. Any other thoughts or should I take it in to have them bled? |
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#10 (permalink) |
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DFL > DNF
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You could try pushing the pads back in. Put the little plastic spacer-thingy in and crank down on the brakes. Mine didn't come with one (long story) so I just use a wood scrap, but some folded up cardboard might work too. This will recenter the pads and fixes some minor problems.
I'd bleed them. You can do it your self for the cost of the kit ($20ish) and a bit of time (an hour maybe).
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I was told there would be no climbing. |
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jhardeman (06-30-2008)
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#11 (permalink) |
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.
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If you can pull the lever all the way to the bars, no amount of scuffing up the rotor will help. Maybe take a hacksaw and cut off the handlebar so you can pull the lever further... or bleed the brakes. If I were you, I would bleed the brakes.
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| post thanked by: |
2wheel_lee (06-30-2008),
jhardeman (06-30-2008)
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#12 (permalink) |
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A.D.D. unleashed
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its possible that you pushed the pads to far in and changed the contact point on hayes you sometimes have to pull the caliper off and give it like 1 or half a good pull to bring the pads in closer to the rotor if you atch a downhill race at fontana youll see people doing it in the pits all the time
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#13 (permalink) |
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Old School BMXer
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x2
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Speed has never killed anyone, suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you. May the air be filled with tires! |
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| post thanked by: |
Rockinthecasbah (06-30-2008)
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Dirtbag
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Quote:
This will help, if thats what has happened. Other than that, if you got anything on the rotor or pads, your not going to have the power untill you burn it off. Basically you are going to need to go for a ride, get the back brakes hot and then you will get your grab back. |
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| post thanked by: |
jhardeman (07-01-2008),
Rockinthecasbah (06-30-2008)
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#15 (permalink) | |
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sandbagger
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Quote:
If you sanded the pads, you may need to break it in again. Heat up the rotors and do a series of hard stops.
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Steve Just along for the ride Originally Posted by SheDevil Autoduel...yours is huge!!!
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| post thanked by: |
jhardeman (07-01-2008)
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