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Old 06-22-2008, 11:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default tire overlap for stubby people

on my 16" canzo i get a bt of toa overlap maybe 5-10 mm's wth the fork un compressed anyways curently have and internal isis bb can i o to exo cranks or space out the BB 5mm or spacers or so and thnk the overlap will be gone and all will be right in the world opnion etc on the best option ps i have huge tires on it right now so smaller tres will be less of a prob
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Old 06-22-2008, 11:44 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Engrish?
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Old 06-22-2008, 11:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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my bad on the spelling tiny smartphone buttons suck
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Old 06-22-2008, 11:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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my bad on the spelling tiny smartphone buttons suck
LOL! You're on STR from your phone? You're addicted, my friend!
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Spacing your cranks out further to eliminate toe overlap will affect your bike fit and will probably screw with your power delivery.

I have the same problem with my 29'er SS (small frame). I just deal with it.
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah, proper grammar takes time, but correct spelling is a no- brainer with t9. toe overlap is death on a mountain bike. especially switchbacks and trackstands
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Originally Posted by SheDevil
Autoduel...yours is huge!!!
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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o yea on an important note have 170 mm cranks so i cant really shed much there
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Old 06-22-2008, 12:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockinthecasbah View Post
o yea on an important note have 170 mm cranks so i cant really shed much there
maybe a 650b front wheel or more compact shoes?
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Originally Posted by SheDevil
Autoduel...yours is huge!!!
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Old 06-22-2008, 01:01 PM   #9 (permalink)
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or change the cleat location on your shoe....

or grow some real size legs, and run a bigger frame midget boy!
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Old 06-22-2008, 02:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I think I may go to a less aggressive front tire and see what happens I am pretty comftorble with my cleat location but I may be able to move it a few mm without noticing
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Fork with more offset?

or maybe a +5mm crown race on the fork?
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:48 PM   #12 (permalink)
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that's weird i dont have that problem on mine but i think mines a medium...does it make that much of a difference?
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Old 06-22-2008, 05:51 PM   #13 (permalink)
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.5 on the top tube i would be good, im sure alot of it has to do with the rampages
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How about thinking outside the box and kill two birds with one stone.

Chop off your toes. This will give you the required clearance AND sheds some weight.
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Old 06-22-2008, 06:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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1. Make sure your fork isn't mounted backward. Compare your bike with the photo below. Does the fork look the same?http://www.toysrus.com/product/index...ductId=2401233

2. Can you move your cleats further forward on your shoes (spacing your feet back)?

3. If all else fails, do the right thing: Dump the 29er and get a good bike (26er).
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Old 06-22-2008, 07:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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im going to move my cleats a little and maybe kill the huge tires ,
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Old 06-22-2008, 10:25 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2wheel_lee View Post
1. Make sure your fork isn't mounted backward. Compare your bike with the photo below. Does the fork look the same?http://www.toysrus.com/product/index...ductId=2401233

2. Can you move your cleats further forward on your shoes (spacing your feet back)?

3. If all else fails, do the right thing: Dump the 29er and get a good bike (26er).
I agree with Lee

It's sad though. You would not believe the amount of bikes I have seen assembled from a bike shop with a backwards fork. Always had to fix them for people (we were running a bike fix booth), and tell them to go throw an egg at the bike shop mechanic for making such a mistake. I mean cmon, a backwards fork?

I second the 26ers, but I know you've got plenty of those to satisfy any normal-sized wheel needs
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