Headset Issues - Calling all Wrenchers...

[ChariotsOfTires]

So my Headset seems to be loose...
Its a Cane Creek Headset that came stock with the bike and its about 1.5 years old. I been told to do the following test to check for it being loose.

The Test: I put my big against a wall, lock the front brake and rock the bike forwards and backwards.

The Result: The fork/Headest shifts back and forth in the frame.

Question: Is this truly busted? The top bolt is tight and it still does this.

[dubjay]

When you say your top cap is tight - are you loosening up your stem bolts before trying to tighten it?

[ChariotsOfTires]

When I installed the new stem, I made sure it was tight but not locked down (about 2 weeks ago). Last night I tightened it a little with out loosening the stem...

[dubjay]

Originally Posted by ChariotsOfTires

When I installed the new stem, I made sure it was tight but not locked down (about 2 weeks ago). Last night I tightened it a little with out loosening the stem...

If you're not loosening the stem, tightening the top cap won't do anything. The top cap helps to compress your headset together - so if your stem is tight and isn't allowing it to compress, it's not doing anything.

Give it a shot after loosening the stem.

[scottay]

try compressing the fork as you tighten the bolt also......

.
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[davidB]

Originally Posted by dubjay

If you're not loosening the stem, tightening the top cap won't do anything.

yup, learned this the hard way a bit back and relearned it again last night when putting my bike back together in the parking lot.

[ChariotsOfTires]

Originally Posted by dubjay

If you're not loosening the stem, tightening the top cap won't do anything. The top cap helps to compress your headset together - so if your stem is tight and isn't allowing it to compress, it's not doing anything.

Give it a shot after loosening the stem.

I'll try this on my lunch. I am riding home from work. Stopping by my LBS on the way for a few other things.

[autoduel]

The top cap could also be bottoming out on the steer tube.
If that is the case, you need to add a headset spacer.

I also tighten the headset to the point that if I lift the front of the bike off the ground, the weight of the wheel will turn the bars. If it doesn't it's too tight.

The old skool test of grabbing the front brakes and rocking back and forth works with rigid forks, but the clicking could be play in your fork bushings and not your headset.

[mtnbikerfred]

The top cap is merely for looks after the pinch-bolts on the stem are tightened.

I suggest tightening no more 1/4 to 1/2 past snug WITH THE STEM BOLTS LOOSE. rotate the bars a for around as far as you can to make sure everything moves smoothly. Any binding, grinding, weird noises, should be addresses now, as something is probably not installed straight.

After you ride a couple of times, repeat the tightening process as all cups/cones, caged ball, roller taper, and IS headsets will "break in" and loosen up a little.

[Pickettt]

Is it a Cane Creek S1?

[BandMan]

Originally Posted by autoduel

The top cap could also be bottoming out on the steer tube.
If that is the case, you need to add a headset spacer.

+1. Had the same problem. Put in a spacer and problem solved.

[ChariotsOfTires]

Originally Posted by Pickettt

Is it a Cane Creek S1?

No Idea if its an S1. It is the stock HS that come on my Rockhopper (Base Model)

[Zippo]

Originally Posted by BandMan

+1. Had the same problem. Put in a spacer and problem solved.

+2

Get yourself some King spacers. so nice...

[ChariotsOfTires]

The top cap actually sits on the stem, not on the Fork Tube. The stem sits a few hairs higher than the top of the tube.

Originally Posted by mtnbikerfred

The top cap is merely for looks after the pinch-bolts on the stem are tightened.

I suggest tightening no more 1/4 to 1/2 past snug WITH THE STEM BOLTS LOOSE. rotate the bars a for around as far as you can to make sure everything moves smoothly. Any binding, grinding, weird noises, should be addresses now, as something is probably not installed straight.

After you ride a couple of times, repeat the tightening process as all cups/cones, caged ball, roller taper, and IS headsets will "break in" and loosen up a little.

[Zippo]

Originally Posted by ChariotsOfTires

The top cap actually sits on the stem, not on the Fork Tube. The stem sits a few hairs higher than the top of the tube.

A few hairs might not do it. put in a 3mm spacer just for sh*ts & giggles and see if it does the trick.

[Pickettt]

Originally Posted by ChariotsOfTires

No Idea if its an S1. It is the stock HS that come on my Rockhopper (Base Model)

I had a similar problem with the Cane Creek headset that came on my Lemond road bike, we couldn't solve the problem at Jenson so we called the manufacturer. There's some problem with the conical shaped split ring in the headset. The recognized it as a recurring problem. They had come up with a solution by shimming some part or another. Since it was a new bike, I refused to accept a shimmed up solution, so they were glad to warranty it and give me a different model headset. I don't know how much luck you'll have after a year and a half though.

[ChariotsOfTires]

Originally Posted by Pickettt

I had a similar problem with the Cane Creek headset that came on my Lemond road bike, we couldn't solve the problem at Jenson so we called the manufacturer. There's some problem with the conical shaped split ring in the headset. The recognized it as a recurring problem. They had come up with a solution by shimming some part or another. Since it was a new bike, I refused to accept a shimmed up solution, so they were glad to warranty it and give me a different model headset. I don't know how much luck you'll have after a year and a half though.

Good to hear they warrantied it for you. I am coming to the conclusion its time to change it out. The rubber seal on top broke a long time ago, though my LBS said that they can't fix the rubber seal and that it shouldn't effect it too much.

[Zippo]

I'm always interested to hear about headset problems. It's always been one of the apsects of my bikes that I never ever have issues with once installed...perhaps that's because all of my headsets are King or Hope. Not to say that Cane Creeks aren't good - I have no experience with them - but the cash spent on King/Hope seems worthwhile (to me at least).

[ChariotsOfTires]

Originally Posted by mtnbikerfred

The top cap is merely for looks after the pinch-bolts on the stem are tightened.

I suggest tightening no more 1/4 to 1/2 past snug WITH THE STEM BOLTS LOOSE. rotate the bars a for around as far as you can to make sure everything moves smoothly.

Did this before my commute home today and it worked great. Thanks for the info everyone....

[SAR_boats]

Originally Posted by Zippo

...perhaps that's because all of my headsets are King or Hope. Not to say that Cane Creeks aren't good - I have no experience with them - but the cash spent on King/Hope seems worthwhile (to me at least).

Have your LBS mechanic install a Chris King or Hope or Cane Creek 110 and check your head tube to makesure it is not ovalized.



BTW The Cane Creek 110 is a re-badged Hope headset.