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Old 05-29-2008, 08:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Chainring nut removal help needed!!

HELP!! I can't get my chainring nuts loose! I have the tool but still can't get them to budge without the tool slipping all over. Any tricks to get this done? The granny nuts are no problem, but the two-piece chainring nuts are driving ME nuts! Any suggestions are welcome...
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:15 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lardbutt View Post
HELP!! I can't get my chainring nuts loose! I have the tool but still can't get them to budge without the tool slipping all over. Any tricks to get this done? The granny nuts are no problem, but the two-piece chainring nuts are driving ME nuts! Any suggestions are welcome...
I just used a plain old allen wrench.

Edit: Try some liquid wrench/WD-40?
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Last edited by northshore; 05-29-2008 at 08:20 AM. Reason: Adding more help...
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Bigger Hammer!!!

NO seriously give it a whack with a hammer to help break loose any rust.. dont bend the friggin thing just cause enough vibration to break the rust loose.. WD-40 always helps too.. GOOD LUCK
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:20 AM   #4 (permalink)
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PB blaster? If the tool is slipping, then that sucker is stuck.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:21 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by northshore View Post
I just used a plain old allen wrench.

Same here N/S but with the allen in the back side and the Park tool on the front side, the allen overpowers the Park tool and makes it slip before the two-piece nuts break loose.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:22 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by lardbutt View Post
Same here N/S but with the allen in the back side and the Park tool on the front side, the allen overpowers the Park tool and makes it slip before the two-piece nuts break loose.
doh! Try some WD-40/liquid wrench. Soak that bad boy!
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:23 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would also like to get some ideas from others on this. This looks from the pic like one of the chain ring bolts that doesn't have an allen fitting in the back - so you are stuck with the special tool, or maybe a flat-head screwdriver.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I think you need to use a flat screwdriver on the back side. I hate those nuts.

Get some Truvativ style ones like these. They have Allen heads on both sides, much easier.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewMaster View Post
I think you need to use a flat screwdriver on the back side. I hate those nuts.

Get some Truvativ style ones like these. They have Allen heads on both sides, much easier.
Waaaayyy easier. Have the shorter ones on my SS.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnookDawg View Post
I would also like to get some ideas from others on this. This looks from the pic like one of the chain ring bolts that doesn't have an allen fitting in the back - so you are stuck with the special tool, or maybe a flat-head screwdriver.
So far I've been lucky enough to not need the special tool. A screwdriver wouldn't work. You'd need something much wider.


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Old 05-29-2008, 08:27 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrewMaster View Post
I think you need to use a flat screwdriver on the back side. I hate those nuts.

Get some Truvativ style ones like these. They have Allen heads on both sides, much easier.

THANKS for the heads up on these Brewmaster. Going to order a set today, maybe a couple sets! Then me and the Dremel tool are going to take out some pent-up frustrations on a certain set of chainring bolts I know...
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:31 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Put the allen tool in a vise. Place the chainring on it then attack the back side with a big fat two-fisted screwdriver. It that doesn't work use a hammer-driven impact wrench with a screwdriver bit, the downward force keeps the bit in the slot.

edit- The Jenson kit is 15 pieces = 5 nuts, you're $5/nut.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Make sure when you DO put new ones on, you put some light oil or anti-seize on the threads!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abui View Post

edit- The Jenson kit is 15 pieces = 5 nuts, you're $5/nut.
My nuts are purple. Does that make them more valuable?
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Old 05-31-2008, 08:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Default The other 3 nuts are ok but this one

On the same related topic, one is stripped, I cant get it out. I gave a wd40 but no go.


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Old 05-31-2008, 08:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Time to break out the drill
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Old 05-31-2008, 08:49 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Time to break out the drill
Replace using steel bolts, I have had my share of problems (creaking and stripped) using alloy bolts.

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Old 05-31-2008, 08:58 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Make sure you guys aren't over-tightening. They don't call for very much TQ.
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:02 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Replace using steel bolts, I have had my share of problems (creaking and stripped) using alloy bolts.

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Old 05-31-2008, 10:20 AM   #19 (permalink)
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This is a coincidence, as I just changed-out my alloy RaceFace chainring bolts to steel Truvativ ones yesterday.

I used a large flat head screwdriver to hold the backside of the bolt firm, and very gently turned the allen wrench on the other side. Slowly and gently because otherwise the slots on the bolt will strip. Each one came loose, and I replaced them with the Truvativs which take two allen wrenches to tighten (5mm and 6mm). As pointed-out previously, I used grease on the bolts and where the rings meet the spider to keep the threads from seizing and to reduce the chance of creaking.

The Raceface alloy bolts (also their steel granny ring bolts) are worthless.
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Old 05-31-2008, 11:47 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Funny you post this as I had the same problem last week. I couldn't get it out so far. Maybe this thread will help.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lardbutt View Post
HELP!! I can't get my chainring nuts loose! I have the tool but still can't get them to budge without the tool slipping all over. Any tricks to get this done? The granny nuts are no problem, but the two-piece chainring nuts are driving ME nuts! Any suggestions are welcome...
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