11-32 vs 11-34 cassette

[Shu]

what are the differences?
Pros and cons of each?

[Stray_Bullit]

I think two teeth! Is this a trick question? Sorry, it's late and I am tired. No more corny jokes from me! Carry on...

[genusmtbkr5]

I usually never shift into that last cog, but when it gets steep, that 34t helps to spin through some tuff, steep, technical sections. But if you haven't already been used to it, then I don't see the difference. A 32t will do. All the other cogs are different as well. For example:

Shimano XT-770 & Sram PG-990
11-32: 11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32
11-34: 11, 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 26, 30, 34

I'm using the Sram PG-990 11-34

[un-kola]

Lower gearing when in the granny ring with a bigger jump from your 2nd biggest to biggest cog(30t-34t I believe).A little more chain sag/slap when in large chainring and 11t cog.At my age I like the 34t to make that last grunt up a particularly tough uphill section,otherwise I do ok most of the time in the second or third cog.- Lloyd

[1080P]

Gear ratios are a little closer for the 11-32 on the tall side of the gears. That's about it. I use a SRAM 980 11-34, and I use all of them. If I bought something used and it had an 11-32, I'd still use it, humans are good at adapting to change.

[thephat]

11-32 Pros

-slightly tighter shifting
-slightly stiffer stronger granny gear
-slightly lighter weight

11-34 Pros

-lower gear ratio

[Tedroy]

Don't forget 12 ~ 34. Big changes down low, smaller changes up high.

[Pickettt]

I ride an 11-30. Anything lower, I would try running 2x9 with a 34. Anyone out there climbing requiring a 22-34 ratio? At that point, I would suggest running.

[jbiron]

If I had a dedicated racing bike I'd likely run a 2X9, 11-34 or maybe a 3X9, 11-27. But since most of my riding is recovery from racing or hard training rides I'm in the 22X34 a lot when climbing.

[Chewyeti]

34 vs 32....

all i know is a 34 is required on a 29er LOL

[Winger]

My hardtail has 11-32
My Full Suspension has 11-34

The difference is very slight. It all comes down to personal preference. If you ride often and are pretty strong on the bike, then the 11-32 will be fine. However, if you get out once a week or climb extreme grades you'll probably want the 11-34.

I stressed about the same thing when I was replacing my cassettes, but decided to stick with what came with the bike.

[2wheel_lee]

Originally Posted by genusmtbkr5

Shimano XT-770
11-32: 11, 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32
11-34: 11, 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 26, 30, 34

You guys can't see the forest through the trees! The 32 and 34 big cogs are the least of my interests here!

If I'm running a 32 up front, I want that 11-32, and if I'm using a 34 up front I want the 11-34. This has nothing to do with the front chainring matching the big cog, though.
A 2:1 ratio is perfect for sprints and attacks (toward jumps). Any lower and I'm spinning and any higher and it's too tall. Yes, I know what I like.

When riding aggressively, where I'm doing lots of sprints, I prefer to run a 2:1 ratio:
The 11-32 has that 16 right there in the middle that offers a 2:1 ratio when used with a 32.
The 11-34 has that 17 right there in the middle that offers a 2:1 ratio whne used with a 34.

And just as you'd expect, my all mountain bike has a 36 up front, so you can bet that I'm running an 11-32, to get that 2:1 ratio with that 18 in the back.

Another benefit to the 11-32 is again the 18 used with a 32 up front. This is the same gearing I run on my singlespeed.

The 12-34 cassette offers other benifits in some applications.

Chosing the right cassette is one the most important aspects in bike setup.

[ransom]

My bike came with a XTR 11-32 and I switched it out for a SRAM 990 11-34.

Please take into consideration that I'm a svelt 240lbs. Felt that I needed a slightly lower gearing to help me clear some steeper technical terrain while in the granny gear. I've noticed that the 34 also helped me push a lower gear in my middle chainring while climbing fire roads. The difference I feel is mostly in the two lowest gearing combinations. This fine tuned my bike to the type of gearing I need for the type of terrain I ride.

I would suggest the SRAM over the XTR in two ways. One to me the shifting feels crisper (word?) Two it's about a third of the cost of a XTR. $75 vs. $215. It's hard to justify the extra cash for a few grams.

Go check out The Path bike shop take off section to see if they have any cog sets that may work for you.

[Zippy]

I rode and raced on a 7-speed 11-30 cassette for years until I bought a bike that came with an 11-34 9-spd. I shift more and find myself in the middle ring much more often. That's about it.

I can't imagine the difference between a 32 and 34 tooth cog being noticeable.

[jeffj]

Originally Posted by Pickettt

I ride an 11-30. Anything lower, I would try running 2x9 with a 34. Anyone out there climbing requiring a 22-34 ratio? At that point, I would suggest running.

Have you considered that every mountain biker is not just like you?

MTBers come all different combinations of size, skill level and fitness levels.

Good, bad or otherwise, I'm 6'5", 270lbs and I'll turn 50 this year. I ride a 6" travel bike with 2.5" tires that weighs 35lbs and I like it.

I run a 2x9 setup with 20/32 on the cranks and an 11/34 cassette. If it weren't for that 20t granny gear (horror of horrors, yes, I said 20t), I'd be walking many of those climbs. 20/34 is the ONLY thing that matters TO ME, the rest of the gear combos I have available are just details.

To each their own. Love the bike you ride.

[Pickettt]

Originally Posted by jeffj

Have you considered that every mountain biker is not just like you?

MTBers come all different combinations of size, skill level and fitness levels.

Good, bad or otherwise, I'm 6'5", 270lbs and I'll turn 50 this year. I ride a 6" travel bike with 2.5" tires that weighs 35lbs and I like it.

I run a 2x9 setup with 20/32 on the cranks and an 11/34 cassette. If it weren't for that 20t granny gear (horror of horrors, yes, I said 20t), I'd be walking many of those climbs. 20/34 is the ONLY thing that matters TO ME, the rest of the gear combos I have available are just details.

To each their own. Love the bike you ride.

Exactly, that's why "I would try," or "I would suggest". Sorry, didn't mean to hurt your feelings...gimme a hug.

[jeffj]

Originally Posted by Pickettt

Exactly, that's why "I would try," or "I would suggest". Sorry, didn't mean to hurt your feelings...gimme a hug.

OK, if you really need one... ...

Just sayin' that they make all those different sizes for a reason and running just isn't fun anymore.

[SnookDawg]

Here's my easy answer to the OP:
If you race XC and climb a lot, then you may not need the 34, depending on where you ride.
If you're more of an occasional trail rider, don't race or don't hang with the racers on climbs on group rides, then get the 34.

[CalEpic]

Originally Posted by Pickettt

Anyone out there climbing requiring a 22-34 ratio? At that point, I would suggest running.

I paid a lot of money for that granny hear - I'm going to use it

[Pho'dUp]

Like Zippy said, with the 34T low gear on the cassette you can stay in the middle ring more.

But, I will say, that after 6hours on the the bike climbing 22t-34t is my best farking friend.