What really makes the bike go faster??

[LncNuvue]

Go tubeless, run low tire pressure, dial your suspension to your weight and riding style, ride more, relax and have fun which will help you ride smoother and faster.

[Dino Brown]

What really makes a bike go faster?

1) Owning one with the words IRON HORSE running along the bottom/top tubes is the easiest way to increase efficiency 1,483% (Harvard Study)

2) In the words of 2006 & 2007 World Cup Downhill Champion Sam Hill, "Green is five seconds faster mate."


3) Spending 90% of your riding (even when uncomfortable) in the MIDDLE RING, will greatly improve your efficiency on the trail

4) Tires: UNBELIEVABLE difference in rolling resistance between (let's say) a Maxxis Minion (DH tire) and a Small Block 8. Sure there are tradeoffs- night and day difference though!

5) Wheels: A light wheelset (combined with low rolling resistance tires) can make a bike "feel" 5 pounds lighter!

6) Proper set-up: Stem too long/short, incorrect handlebar height, seat too far back/forward, frame too large/too small, incorrect bike for intended usage (XC/4X/AM/FR/DH).... and the one set-up mistake I see "ON NEARLY EVERY RIDE"... riding with your seat too low!

DirtRider- Sorry for going a bit off topic. Just trying to help a NEWB or two.....

[hoovermd]

Originally Posted by JOx2

What makes the bike go faster? The rider.

Actually it is probably the size of the balls on the rider...

[RustyIron]

Originally Posted by Dino Brown

4) Tires: UNBELIEVABLE difference in rolling resistance between (let's say) a Maxxis Minion (DH tire) and a Small Block 8. Sure there are tradeoffs- night and day difference though!

Here's a thought regarding rolling resistance:
Run your tires at the recommended pressure, even at the high end of the recommended pressure.

Sure, you sound hella cool when you tell your bubs that you run ultra-low pressures. But honestly, are you so gonzo that you derive substantial benefit from the increased footprint? Most of us are not.

Low pressures will get you a little more traction at the expense of an increased risk of flats and a dramatic increase in rolling resistance.

[DirtymikeTDB]

I ride DH, and will add this on the note of tire pressure, the low pressure Idea is crap. I ride my back tire at 45lbs and front at 30 lbs. I dont need to run at 18 or 22 or 25 lbs to get traction, I learned a long time ago YOUR GOING TO DRIFT get over it. I have lower rolling resistance, and still stick turns just fine!!!!


Lighter tire/wheel combo is probably your first place to start for making a faster bike. Other than that, Proper fit, proper riding position, proper suspension setup. Dont be afraid to have a soft suspension, that will make for great traction. Also learn Multiple turning techniques, different turns will work better with different styles!!!






If you have cartridge hubs, and you really want to egt a low rolling resistance bearing, I have in stock the ceramic bearings. You can tell a diference on the road bikes, not sure if it would be worth the cost though for a Mtn bike. Figure a bill for each wheel for the bearings. They do roll stupid smooth though.

[LncNuvue]

Terrain is important when selecting tire pressure. When its dry and loose like the most of the trails I ride I prefer lower pressure. I ride 20-22lbs front, 24-26 rear on nevegals tubless with stans and this works great for me. Personal preference goes along way here. I'm faster up and down and more stable at that pressure - I'm also only a 145lbs rider.

[DirtymikeTDB]

Originally Posted by LncNuvue

Terrain is important when selecting tire pressure. When its dry and loose like the most of the trails I ride I prefer lower pressure. I ride 20-22lbs front, 24-26 rear on nevegals tubless with stans and this works great for me. Personal preference goes along way here. I'm faster up and down and more stable at that pressure - I'm also only a 145lbs rider.

That makes a big difference as well, I am a 245 Lbs rider!!!!

[Pickettt]

Originally Posted by mechmann

i will chime in.

1. better rolling tires that are correctly selected for the course

2. the bike. for certain courses a hard tail will be way faster, others a full suspension. some may not understand this fully, but if you can't put the power to the ground then you won't go any faster. smooth course and the HT will be lighter and quicker, bumpy course and the same HT will not put the power down and will beat up the rider.

3. fitness. the rider's fitness is a big deal. if you don't have fitness, you can skip this one and go to the next.

4. a good doping program. no matter what everyone thinks, drugs make you faster!

Drugs only make you faster if they don't kill you first.

[nomad]

Bigger lungs &legs

[kanga]

Gravity... and .... er.... not trying to defy it!

At least in one direction...

[Abui]

What makes the bike go faster?

The competition.

[hoovermd]

Originally Posted by RustyIron

Here's a thought regarding rolling resistance:
Run your tires at the recommended pressure, even at the high end of the recommended pressure.

Sure, you sound hella cool when you tell your bubs that you run ultra-low pressures. But honestly, are you so gonzo that you derive substantial benefit from the increased footprint? Most of us are not.

Low pressures will get you a little more traction at the expense of an increased risk of flats and a dramatic increase in rolling resistance.

Rims are cheap!
Spinning the rear on the SS sux.
Run at 1/2 the recommended pressure!!!
I do.

[Zippy]

How to go faster: Pedal at a higher cadence or turn a bigger gear.

If you have a large disposable income, feel free to experiment with wheel and tire combos as much as you like. I highly recommend tubless tires for lower rolling resistance and flat protection. People will disagree, but this is just my opinion.

Don't have lots of cash? Ride more. You'll get faster just by spending more time in the saddle. Other methods include weight training or dropping a few lbs. For an example, put a 5 or 10 pound weight in your pack and ride with it, then take it out and see the difference.

Not into racing? Just go out and enjoy riding and forget all the nonsense about "going faster". Chances are you got into riding because you enjoyed it; try finding that place again.

My most fun rides are when I hook up with a buddy, ignore heart rates and training zones and just go "play".

Live it up, man.

[bighit8]

Some encouragement from bighit8. Go faster dude!!!!!!!

[mottmcfly]

Originally Posted by LncNuvue

Terrain is important when selecting tire pressure. When its dry and loose like the most of the trails I ride I prefer lower pressure. I ride 20-22lbs front, 24-26 rear on nevegals tubless with stans and this works great for me. Personal preference goes along way here. I'm faster up and down and more stable at that pressure - I'm also only a 145lbs rider.

I weigh 165 and I cant run pressure that low on my Nevegal 2.35 tubeless. I wonder if the wheel set has anything to do with it. Normally if I want to be running fast through anything even remotely rocky I'm looking at 35psi plus or else I'm hearing the seal start to break.

[mfoga]

Originally Posted by hoovermd

Actually it is probably the size of the balls on the rider...

This is a major factor.

[Allrotor13b]

Tires, well adjusted hubs and strong legs. And no brakes + alcohol in your blood

[Allrotor13b]

And Zippy is right. Saddle time. Especially when you are riding alone so you don't have to wait for others or maintain a group pace. Go riding by yourself and just attack every hill and incline you can in as high a gear as you can muster 60rpm in. Don't downshift because you think you have to; stick it out in the gear you're in and you'll be surprised to find that you are indeed strong enough for that gear. If you can get thirty minutes to an hour of solid hill-climbing in, three or four days a week, i will personally guarantee you stronger legs and more stamina in two week's time. The guarantee is that if i am wrong, you can ride over to my house and kick me in the shin