STR | SocalTrailRiders.org

SDstumpy

Is it possible to replace a headset myself? I'd like to purchase a new fork and wanted to go with a chris king headset while I was at it. I've never done it before but do i need a special press to install the races? Also do need a special tool to install the star nut? I'll probably have it done at the PATH, but wanted to know if it is possible to do yourself.

lukewiens

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65

lemme know how it goes...i am looking forward to trying this someday.

bikeadict

I do it myself, but I also know I don't do it "right" but it works...

I use a piece of wooden dowel (3/4 of an inch) to pop out the old cups,
I grease the head tube to help install the new cup..

then I just place the cup in place hold it as level as possible, place a 2x4 to cover the whole top of the cup then gently hammer the top of the 2x4 making sure after every tap that the headset is still level and not going sideways in the hole....

I suppose I could horribly damage my new headset or the head tube, however, I never have so its good for me. I've installed at least 5 headsets this way.

The key is to make sure you don't try to hammer the headset in when it is even slightly crooked.

There are also diy headset presses you can make with a big bolt, nut and some washers... I've tried it before and it didn't work as well as my other method...

S51

You can do it yourself. You can always improvise your own tools but I've found that having the proper tools in the first place saves a lot of headaches.

If you plan on doing the maintenance by yourself a lot, it's a wise investment since you won't have to rely on your LBS to do it all. Also you should pick up a copy of Zinn's Mountain Bike Maintenance if you haven't already.

drclark

Getting the old headset cups out shouldn't be too hard. They make a special tool for that purpose, but I have always been successful using a screw driver and a rubber mallet to gently tap the cups out. You have to be sure to move the point where you are tapping around the circumference of the headset cup and not just pound away in one spot.

Installing the new headset cups can be done by GENTLY tapping them in with a rubber mallet (bike shops will have a headset cup press). You need to make sure you have the opposite side of the head tube supported on a work bench or something. There is a slight risk of ovalizing the headtube if you try to pound the cup in too hard if it is not aligned properly.

The hardest part is removing the old bearing race and installing the new race on your fork. The steer tube has a slight bulge at the bottom for the race to press-fit on to. Gently working at it with your screw driver and mallet will eventually get the old race off.

Getting the new race on can be a real pain. This is where trying to tap the race on with a screwdriver probably won't work. You need to be able to apply force around the full circumference of the race at the same time to get it to press onto the fork.

I found a steel pipe at home depot that is just the right inside diameter and length (with a threaded end cap) to fit over the steer tube and act as the race press. Support fork so that the bottom of the steer tube and crown is supported on the corner of a workbench. Slip the race on the steer tube. Place your pipe-press on the race and wack the capped end of the pipe with a hammer until the race if firmly seated flush against the top of the fork's crown.

Once that is done, reassemble your fork onto the bike. Since its a King headset you don't need to worry about greasing the bearings. Tighten till you feel slight resistance in steering and then back off a half turn or so. If installing a new fork, then you would also need to cut the steer tube to the correct length and insert a star-fangled nut or other headset locking mechanism.

drc

richie_rich

I real cup press and star nut tool is really the way to ensure that everything is seated right in the frame/head tube and the steer tube of the fork. Let's be honest frames and forks are expensive, if you dropped all that coin on some cool new stuff what's $20-40 to have someone do it right?

S51

I'd have to agree with richie_rich. It's cool to see how everyone has their own way to do their own maintenance, but from my auto experience it's always best to have the proper tools or have someone else do it properly.

jiggawu

I went over the same thoughts a few days ago. I needed to install a headset, but don't have the park tools for it, although I know how to do it. I chose to have the lbs do it for a fee instead of buying the expensive tools for a one-time use. Who knows when I will use it next, I don't change bikes often.

Use the right tools for the job. park tools has a basic DIY model for like $50 for the press and if you like working on new bikes often, it will be good to invest in tools.

DBD

Ghetto style -
Press out cups with a long flat head screwdriver and hammer/mallet, but be sure to round off the corners on the screw driver or you will score the inside of the tube

Press cups in - Two pieces of 2"x4"x4", a rubber mallet, a work stand (can be done without the stand but it is a real pita) and a lot of patients.
Set the bike in the stand so the head tube can rest on a table with one of the 2x4s under it. Place a cup on the upper side and then the other 2x4. Lightly tap the wood with the mallet as straight on as possible, only moving the cup a mm or two at a time until the cup is completely seated.
Flip the frame over and do the same. Use a rubber mallet because if you do need to tap the cup directly you will have less chance of bending/chipping it.

The cups must go in straight or you will ruin the cups the head tube or even both. After each hit if the mallet check to see if the cup is straight

Another way to press the cups in is to use a vise as a press and a couple pieces of aluminum(to protect the cups and frame from the teeth on the vise)but it, the vise, will need to open far enough to fit the head tube and both cups (most people do not have a vise that big)

Abui

Quote:

Originally Posted by drclark

Getting the new race on can be a real pain. This is where trying to tap the race on with a screwdriver probably won't work. You need to be able to apply force around the full circumference of the race at the same time to get it to press onto the fork.
drc

Crown race setter - a 2x4 bored out. Nothing to scratch the race.

Rockinthecasbah

it can be easily done

el_d00der1n0

I made my own press with some washers and an 8 inch bolt without a head. It worked pretty well but next time, I'll add some bushings to hold the headset straight because it's hard to make it go in just right with the current config.

i also made a crown race tool with a 10 inch galvanized nipple of 1 1/2 diameter with a step-down union that brought the inner diameter to 1 1/8 inch. It's quite snug. All you have to do is drop it on the race about 3 times, and voilla!

onegymrat

How about taking it to the shop to ensure getting it done correctly, as Richie Rich had suggested. But stay and watch them work on it and then solicit advice on how to do this at home yourself. I've done this many times and can maintain most of the bike...but not installing fork or headset.

bikeadict

one of these days, i'll buy a headset press, but at this point since I can do it my ghetto way, I do.

mtnbikej

Quote:

Originally Posted by el_d00der1n0

I made my own press with some washers and an 8 inch bolt without a head.

I have done this as well in the past, but only on a cheap headset. I have a problem doing this on a $130 King HS.

It is so much easier to do with the correct tools.

Marshall Willanholly

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtnbikej

It is so much easier to do with the correct tools.

I agree. I bought the Park HS cup remover, star nut setter, and budget headset press and I've ended up using all of them even more than I originally expected. I will admit I still use a length of PVC pipe as a crown race tool

.

el_d00der1n0

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtnbikej

I have done this as well in the past, but only on a cheap headset. I have a problem doing this on a $130 King HS.

It is so much easier to do with the correct tools.

If I was spending $130 on a HS, I'd pay someone to do it. I didn't even spend that on the frame.

autoduel

On a new frame, definitely have it pressed in by a shop because it is very difficult to get the cups in straight and square. One cups have been seated, replacing them seems to be easier. If your headset uses loose balls, getting the cups to seat square is much more crucial to prevent binding of the bearings. Cartridge bearing headsets like the King is much less sensitive to sideloading of the bearings if the cups are not seated square.

Pato

Headsets are very easily installed yourself.

To remove:

Use a flathead screwdriver and carefully knock out the bearing cups from the frame. You can also use the screwdriver to remove the crown race, but a bearing splitter works better if you've got one.

To install:

I made my own bearing cup press. Using a large, long bolt, 2 large washers, a couple of pieces of flat wood (I used some scrap pieces of MDX plywood I had lying around) and a nut for the bolt. Drill a hole in the blocks of wood to fit the bolt through them.

Slide one washer on to the bolt followed by one of the blocks of wood. Next place the headset cup bearing side first over the bolt so that the bearing side of the cup should be in contact with the block of wood. Feed this assembly through the head tube making sure that you are going in the correct direction. If you placed the bottom bearing cup into the assembly, feed it through the bottom of the head tube. Now place the second block of wood over the bolt followed by the second washer and finally thread in the nut. Carefully tighten the nut down making sure the cup is going in straight. Keep tightening the nut until the there it leaves a small mark on the wood. Back the nut off then remove one washer and block of wood place the second bearing cup in with the bearing side facing away from the frame. Slide the block of wood over the bolt followed by the washer then thread the nut on again. Again carefully tighten the nut down to press the cup in evenly until the cup begins to leave a mark on the wood.

To install the crown race, I use a 1.5" PVC pipe at least 2' long. First, slide the crown race on to the fork's steerer tube making sure you have the correct side facing up and away from the fork's crown. The flat side should be on the bottom contacting the fork's crown and the beveled edge should be facing up. Place the PVC pipe on the floor and insert the inverted fork's steerer tube with the crown race into the pipe. Grab hold of the fork stantions with both hands and lift the fork up, but not out of the pipe, then slam it back down. Keep doing this until the crown race bottoms out on the fork crown.

The reason I use the blocks of wood is that the wood will deform before it will damage the headset bearing cups. As for the PVC pipe, same idea. PVC will deform and break before the metal parts will. The added benefit of my method is that you don't run the risk of damaging the fork lowers from hammering either.

If this is a new fork then you will need to cut the steerer tube down to the correct size (measure twice cut once, making sure your cut is square and that you bevel the edges a bit and remove any burs) then install the star nut. In this case, I actually do use a star nut setting tool, but you can just thread the bolt and top cap onto the star nut (edges of the star nut should be facing the up towards the cap) all the way in until its just about to touch the top cap. Place the fork over something like a 2x4 so that the bottom of the crown is resting on the 2x4 and the fork is up off the floor. Hold the the fork in between your legs (get get someone to hold it for you) then gently hammer the star nut into the steerer tube. Once the top cap bottoms out on the steerer tube unscrew the bolt a bit and hammer it down again. Repeat this process until the top of the star nut's center section is about 15mm down from the top of the steerer tube.

Now reinstall your fork and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Total cost of the homemade tools should come out to less than $10 for the cup press and crown race setter.

If you plan on doing this more often, I'd suggest investing in the headset cup remover and the star nut setter. They should be less than $20 a piece and will make the job much faster, easier and more precise.

Good luck to you and feel free to post or PM me with any other questions.

Duc

.8down

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pato

Headsets are very easily installed yourself.

To remove:

Use a flathead screwdriver and carefully knock out the bearing cups from the frame. You can also use the screwdriver to remove the crown race, but a bearing splitter works better if you've got one.

To install:

I made my own bearing cup press. Using a large, long bolt, 2 large washers, a couple of pieces of flat wood (I used some scrap pieces of MDX plywood I had lying around) and a nut for the bolt. Drill a hole in the blocks of wood to fit the bolt through them.

Slide one washer on to the bolt followed by one of the blocks of wood. Next place the headset cup bearing side first over the bolt so that the bearing side of the cup should be in contact with the block of wood. Feed this assembly through the head tube making sure that you are going in the correct direction. If you placed the bottom bearing cup into the assembly, feed it through the bottom of the head tube. Now place the second block of wood over the bolt followed by the second washer and finally thread in the nut. Carefully tighten the nut down making sure the cup is going in straight. Keep tightening the nut until the there it leaves a small mark on the wood. Back the nut off then remove one washer and block of wood place the second bearing cup in with the bearing side facing away from the frame. Slide the block of wood over the bolt followed by the washer then thread the nut on again. Again carefully tighten the nut down to press the cup in evenly until the cup begins to leave a mark on the wood.

To install the crown race, I use a 1.5" PVC pipe at least 2' long. First, slide the crown race on to the fork's steerer tube making sure you have the correct side facing up and away from the fork's crown. The flat side should be on the bottom contacting the fork's crown and the beveled edge should be facing up. Place the PVC pipe on the floor and insert the inverted fork's steerer tube with the crown race into the pipe. Grab hold of the fork stantions with both hands and lift the fork up, but not out of the pipe, then slam it back down. Keep doing this until the crown race bottoms out on the fork crown.

The reason I use the blocks of wood is that the wood will deform before it will damage the headset bearing cups. As for the PVC pipe, same idea. PVC will deform and break before the metal parts will. The added benefit of my method is that you don't run the risk of damaging the fork lowers from hammering either.

If this is a new fork then you will need to cut the steerer tube down to the correct size (measure twice cut once, making sure your cut is square and that you bevel the edges a bit and remove any burs) then install the star nut. In this case, I actually do use a star nut setting tool, but you can just thread the bolt and top cap onto the star nut (edges of the star nut should be facing the up towards the cap) all the way in until its just about to touch the top cap. Place the fork over something like a 2x4 so that the bottom of the crown is resting on the 2x4 and the fork is up off the floor. Hold the the fork in between your legs (get get someone to hold it for you) then gently hammer the star nut into the steerer tube. Once the top cap bottoms out on the steerer tube unscrew the bolt a bit and hammer it down again. Repeat this process until the top of the star nut's center section is about 15mm down from the top of the steerer tube.

Now reinstall your fork and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Total cost of the homemade tools should come out to less than $10 for the cup press and crown race setter.

If you plan on doing this more often, I'd suggest investing in the headset cup remover and the star nut setter. They should be less than $20 a piece and will make the job much faster, easier and more precise.

Good luck to you and feel free to post or PM me with any other questions.

Duc

always the boy scout...nice write up, Im gonna try to remove my headset, so you coat the screw driver with anything, tape? no scratches on the ano?


SDstumpy brktwnazn007 is dead	DIY headset replacement? Is it possible to replace a headset myself? I'd like to purchase a new fork and wanted to go with a chris king headset while I was at it. I've never done it before but do i need a special press to install the races? Also do need a special tool to install the star nut? I'll probably have it done at the PATH, but wanted to know if it is possible to do yourself. __________________ Does upgradeitis ever go away?


lukewiens Reformed Triathlete	http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65 lemme know how it goes...i am looking forward to trying this someday. __________________ "when you get hurt and all of your sacrifice adds up to nothing, are you willing to put it all on the line again?" - conrad stoltz MY BLOG - EMTB Quest for 24 hours solo


bikeadict bikeaholic	I do it myself, but I also know I don't do it "right" but it works... I use a piece of wooden dowel (3/4 of an inch) to pop out the old cups, I grease the head tube to help install the new cup.. then I just place the cup in place hold it as level as possible, place a 2x4 to cover the whole top of the cup then gently hammer the top of the 2x4 making sure after every tap that the headset is still level and not going sideways in the hole.... I suppose I could horribly damage my new headset or the head tube, however, I never have so its good for me. I've installed at least 5 headsets this way. The key is to make sure you don't try to hammer the headset in when it is even slightly crooked. There are also diy headset presses you can make with a big bolt, nut and some washers... I've tried it before and it didn't work as well as my other method...


S51 i need a job	You can do it yourself. You can always improvise your own tools but I've found that having the proper tools in the first place saves a lot of headaches. If you plan on doing the maintenance by yourself a lot, it's a wise investment since you won't have to rely on your LBS to do it all. Also you should pick up a copy of Zinn's Mountain Bike Maintenance if you haven't already.


drclark I aim to misbehave	Getting the old headset cups out shouldn't be too hard. They make a special tool for that purpose, but I have always been successful using a screw driver and a rubber mallet to gently tap the cups out. You have to be sure to move the point where you are tapping around the circumference of the headset cup and not just pound away in one spot. Installing the new headset cups can be done by GENTLY tapping them in with a rubber mallet (bike shops will have a headset cup press). You need to make sure you have the opposite side of the head tube supported on a work bench or something. There is a slight risk of ovalizing the headtube if you try to pound the cup in too hard if it is not aligned properly. The hardest part is removing the old bearing race and installing the new race on your fork. The steer tube has a slight bulge at the bottom for the race to press-fit on to. Gently working at it with your screw driver and mallet will eventually get the old race off. Getting the new race on can be a real pain. This is where trying to tap the race on with a screwdriver probably won't work. You need to be able to apply force around the full circumference of the race at the same time to get it to press onto the fork. I found a steel pipe at home depot that is just the right inside diameter and length (with a threaded end cap) to fit over the steer tube and act as the race press. Support fork so that the bottom of the steer tube and crown is supported on the corner of a workbench. Slip the race on the steer tube. Place your pipe-press on the race and wack the capped end of the pipe with a hammer until the race if firmly seated flush against the top of the fork's crown. Once that is done, reassemble your fork onto the bike. Since its a King headset you don't need to worry about greasing the bearings. Tighten till you feel slight resistance in steering and then back off a half turn or so. If installing a new fork, then you would also need to cut the steer tube to the correct length and insert a star-fangled nut or other headset locking mechanism. drc


richie_rich Dusty Dirt Devil	I real cup press and star nut tool is really the way to ensure that everything is seated right in the frame/head tube and the steer tube of the fork. Let's be honest frames and forks are expensive, if you dropped all that coin on some cool new stuff what's $20-40 to have someone do it right? __________________ SHEDEVIL: "Haven't you ever seen me grab my crotch going downhill?" "The world is small and the trails are smaller, so when you see another biker smile and wave, you never know who you might meet."


jiggawu Junior Member	I went over the same thoughts a few days ago. I needed to install a headset, but don't have the park tools for it, although I know how to do it. I chose to have the lbs do it for a fee instead of buying the expensive tools for a one-time use. Who knows when I will use it next, I don't change bikes often. Use the right tools for the job. park tools has a basic DIY model for like $50 for the press and if you like working on new bikes often, it will be good to invest in tools. __________________ '07 Rocky Mountain Slayer SXC 50 NEW Zion 660 that needs FD/28.6/top-pull, 9sp shifter, and headset (Anyone?) '02 Giant NRS-3 (frame soon to be for sale) '05 Torelli Nitro Express - Dura-Ace


DBD Old man goin' downhill	Ghetto style - Press out cups with a long flat head screwdriver and hammer/mallet, but be sure to round off the corners on the screw driver or you will score the inside of the tube Press cups in - Two pieces of 2"x4"x4", a rubber mallet, a work stand (can be done without the stand but it is a real pita) and a lot of patients. Set the bike in the stand so the head tube can rest on a table with one of the 2x4s under it. Place a cup on the upper side and then the other 2x4. Lightly tap the wood with the mallet as straight on as possible, only moving the cup a mm or two at a time until the cup is completely seated. Flip the frame over and do the same. Use a rubber mallet because if you do need to tap the cup directly you will have less chance of bending/chipping it. The cups must go in straight or you will ruin the cups the head tube or even both. After each hit if the mallet check to see if the cup is straight Another way to press the cups in is to use a vise as a press and a couple pieces of aluminum(to protect the cups and frame from the teeth on the vise)but it, the vise, will need to open far enough to fit the head tube and both cups (most people do not have a vise that big) __________________ "Freeriding is not just about freeriding"


Rockinthecasbah A.D.D. unleashed	it can be easily done __________________ I Think I Got White Lighting In My Eye chewyeti http://www.RobbinsPictures.com Utopia Optics


el_d00der1n0 Creature of the Wheel	I made my own press with some washers and an 8 inch bolt without a head. It worked pretty well but next time, I'll add some bushings to hold the headset straight because it's hard to make it go in just right with the current config. i also made a crown race tool with a 10 inch galvanized nipple of 1 1/2 diameter with a step-down union that brought the inner diameter to 1 1/8 inch. It's quite snug. All you have to do is drop it on the race about 3 times, and voilla! __________________ all your macs are belong to us


onegymrat Slow Rider	How about taking it to the shop to ensure getting it done correctly, as Richie Rich had suggested. But stay and watch them work on it and then solicit advice on how to do this at home yourself. I've done this many times and can maintain most of the bike...but not installing fork or headset.


autoduel sandbagger	On a new frame, definitely have it pressed in by a shop because it is very difficult to get the cups in straight and square. One cups have been seated, replacing them seems to be easier. If your headset uses loose balls, getting the cups to seat square is much more crucial to prevent binding of the bearings. Cartridge bearing headsets like the King is much less sensitive to sideloading of the bearings if the cups are not seated square. __________________ Steve Just along for the ride


Pato Stop stealing my thunder!	Headsets are very easily installed yourself. To remove: Use a flathead screwdriver and carefully knock out the bearing cups from the frame. You can also use the screwdriver to remove the crown race, but a bearing splitter works better if you've got one. To install: I made my own bearing cup press. Using a large, long bolt, 2 large washers, a couple of pieces of flat wood (I used some scrap pieces of MDX plywood I had lying around) and a nut for the bolt. Drill a hole in the blocks of wood to fit the bolt through them. Slide one washer on to the bolt followed by one of the blocks of wood. Next place the headset cup bearing side first over the bolt so that the bearing side of the cup should be in contact with the block of wood. Feed this assembly through the head tube making sure that you are going in the correct direction. If you placed the bottom bearing cup into the assembly, feed it through the bottom of the head tube. Now place the second block of wood over the bolt followed by the second washer and finally thread in the nut. Carefully tighten the nut down making sure the cup is going in straight. Keep tightening the nut until the there it leaves a small mark on the wood. Back the nut off then remove one washer and block of wood place the second bearing cup in with the bearing side facing away from the frame. Slide the block of wood over the bolt followed by the washer then thread the nut on again. Again carefully tighten the nut down to press the cup in evenly until the cup begins to leave a mark on the wood. To install the crown race, I use a 1.5" PVC pipe at least 2' long. First, slide the crown race on to the fork's steerer tube making sure you have the correct side facing up and away from the fork's crown. The flat side should be on the bottom contacting the fork's crown and the beveled edge should be facing up. Place the PVC pipe on the floor and insert the inverted fork's steerer tube with the crown race into the pipe. Grab hold of the fork stantions with both hands and lift the fork up, but not out of the pipe, then slam it back down. Keep doing this until the crown race bottoms out on the fork crown. The reason I use the blocks of wood is that the wood will deform before it will damage the headset bearing cups. As for the PVC pipe, same idea. PVC will deform and break before the metal parts will. The added benefit of my method is that you don't run the risk of damaging the fork lowers from hammering either. If this is a new fork then you will need to cut the steerer tube down to the correct size (measure twice cut once, making sure your cut is square and that you bevel the edges a bit and remove any burs) then install the star nut. In this case, I actually do use a star nut setting tool, but you can just thread the bolt and top cap onto the star nut (edges of the star nut should be facing the up towards the cap) all the way in until its just about to touch the top cap. Place the fork over something like a 2x4 so that the bottom of the crown is resting on the 2x4 and the fork is up off the floor. Hold the the fork in between your legs (get get someone to hold it for you) then gently hammer the star nut into the steerer tube. Once the top cap bottoms out on the steerer tube unscrew the bolt a bit and hammer it down again. Repeat this process until the top of the star nut's center section is about 15mm down from the top of the steerer tube. Now reinstall your fork and enjoy the fruits of your labor. Total cost of the homemade tools should come out to less than $10 for the cup press and crown race setter. If you plan on doing this more often, I'd suggest investing in the headset cup remover and the star nut setter. They should be less than $20 a piece and will make the job much faster, easier and more precise. Good luck to you and feel free to post or PM me with any other questions. Duc __________________ "To take yourself too seriously is foolish. To take what I say seriously is just plain stupid!" - Wise Vietnamese man

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