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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Hi there!
I've been trying to adjust my XTR disc brakes (07 model) but haven't been able to have them as I like... My rear brake feels very "long" and I can't find the way to adjust the reach on the levers to make it shorter... The pads are in good condition, so it's not that... I used to have Juicy 7's and it was soooooo easy to adjust them...this XTR's are killing me! Any ideas??? Thanks a lot! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
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I tried in vain to find a link but to no avail. I found this in my Nov. 2007 Mountain Bike Action section ask RC.
Pull off the wheel and insert a clean piece of metal or plastic slightly thinner than your brake disc in between the disc pads, squeez the lever and reinstall your wheel. If you can't find a spacer try sqweezing the lever slightly. The object is to get the rubber seals that retract the pads to move a closer to the rotor. This moves the levers engagement point further outboard. If the brakes drag after your adjustments, simply remove the wheels and pry the pads a part with a clean flat flat head screw driver. Pump the levers with the wheels in place to reset the pads and try once more. The idea is to trick the XTR into engaging earlier, reducing the levers distance before pad contact. http://www.mbaction.com/Me2/dirsect....FA668D&nm=FAQs You may have to buy a back copy to get the entire article. Hope this helps. GL |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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STR Veteran
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andygua (03-31-2008)
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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in the inner side of the lever.
If you mean the contact point is uneven, Shimano has an auto adjust system, if its not working, you need to bleed or service your brakes. If you need any help, you can contact with me (I'm in Westwood). ![]() Quote:
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andygua (03-31-2008)
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#6 (permalink) | ||
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Senior Member
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Thanks man...you were right, the brakes needed to be bled. I took my bike to Helen's (never again btw, noob in town error) and they bled them and adjusted a couple of other things that needed attention. I noticed now that there's a minimal rub between the pads and the rotor (although the engagement point is cool now). Should I reset the pistons to avoid that rub? |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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in the caliper slot, take off the wheel, press the pads all the way to the caliper with a clean big flat screwdriver, reinstall the wheel, put business cards both sides between the rotor and the pad, and squeeze the lever, go ride and have fun.
***don't do the process while the bike in upside down position*** Next time to have a better service experience in the west side, just check the link in my signature. ![]() Quote:
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andygua (04-01-2008)
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#8 (permalink) |
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Bike Whisperer
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The tolerances are rather touchy on these so I know exactly what you mean. If they are I.S. mount you will need to get some thin V-brake post sized washers to get them center with the slight variations from different hub/rotor manufacturers. If your fork is a standard QR and do not have a thru axle flexing and rubbing will always be a fact of life. All I can say is I am glad I tried these out before buying, I don't think they are worth the price and would E-bay them and get Hayes Strokers.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Stroker ???
They are not even comparable. I'm running on Shimano brakes for over 5 years (XT, XTR and Saint), I can insure you that even the Stroker won't stand even close to the top Shimano models regarding reliability, braking performance and simplicity. ![]()
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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Senior Member
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