Go Back   SoCalTrailRiders > Local Riding > The Workshop

The Workshop Get and give help on repairs, installations, maintenance, and general bike tech.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 03-05-2008, 04:28 PM   #21 (permalink)
SLO Rider
 
Bryguy17's Avatar
 
Default

for changing rotor size, it doesn't really matter. either way will change the frequency that the brake system vibrates at (higher for smaller rotor, lower for larger rotor, but that doesn't matter). Shouldn't matter what type of rotor either. I'd say find a friend with a spare rotor/adapter you can borrow to try it out.
Bryguy17 is offline
post thanked by:
TDUB (03-05-2008)
Old 03-05-2008, 04:32 PM   #22 (permalink)
STR Veteran
 
Default

LOL, that is the best way to describe the Avid brake noise. Every single set of Avids I have or have experience with, makes this same "gobble". HAHAHA. My Hayes on the other hand are dead silent unless you get them really REALLY REALLY hot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zippy View Post
If you mean the Turkey "gobble" then it's just normal for the rotor and many people I've talked to have that problem, me included. If it's a loud squeal, I fix it by the steps you've already mentioned. Maybe turn your headphones up?
__________________

92se-r is online now
post thanked by:
dudevf1 (03-06-2008), TDUB (03-05-2008)
Old 03-05-2008, 05:25 PM   #23 (permalink)
STR Veteran
 
OldDogDan's Avatar
 
Default

Occasionally something as simple as increasing the tension on your QR can stop it (the resonance thing..).
OldDogDan is offline
post thanked by:
TDUB (03-05-2008)
Old 03-05-2008, 05:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
Pro beginner
 
mottmcfly's Avatar
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDUB View Post
Ok im going to look into getting the mounts refaced. As for changing rotor size should I go down or up in size? And should i stay with the avid rotor or should i try another brand? I currently have 185mm on the rear.
I have a similar problem with my Hayes Stroker rear 8" brake on a Mavvic wheel. Hayes told me that the problem was due to the "acoustics" of the wheelset. Funny this doesn't occur on the front. The poor bike shop has tried just about everything including glazing the pads with a torch. I am thinking about reducing the rotor to a 6" just to entertain the acoustic theory.
__________________
Matt13 "Dont I feel stupid.....
I read the thread title, not once, but twice as
"Our Reindeer Lives".
And I thought, who the hell owns a reindeer????"
mottmcfly is offline
post thanked by:
TDUB (03-05-2008)
Old 03-05-2008, 09:58 PM   #25 (permalink)
SLO Rider
 
Bryguy17's Avatar
 
Default

the acoustics of the front wheel will be different from the rear wheel though, so you're likely only going to experience the problem on one or the other. DIfferences in spoke length, tension, hub spacing, qr tightness, acoustics of the fork/frame will all effect whether or not it resonates. it really is amazing that it happens so often, considering all of those factors must be perfect for that to happen.

One known example of it happening is on older trek fuels using formula OROs. they would just resonate and make the whole frame shake violently.

bad stuff, but at least its not as bad as this:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=a4EvVR10AF0
Bryguy17 is offline
post thanked by:
TDUB (03-05-2008)
Old 03-05-2008, 10:38 PM   #26 (permalink)
Over the Hill
 
dstepper's Avatar
 
Default

I have often thought if using caliper and rotor washers, bolts and spacers maybe out of a anti-vibration material like nylon would be the cure...maybe anti vibration mounts.

Dean
__________________
If I'm not lost or getting bushwacked, the trail was too easy.

Prescott Valley Houses
The Path
dstepper is offline
post thanked by:
TDUB (03-05-2008)
Old 03-06-2008, 12:40 AM   #27 (permalink)
SLO Rider
 
Bryguy17's Avatar
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dstepper View Post
I have often thought if using caliper and rotor washers, bolts and spacers maybe out of a anti-vibration material like nylon would be the cure...maybe anti vibration mounts.

Dean
the only problem with this is flex. We have a hard enough time keeping rotors/calipers adjusted into the right place. If you used a vibration dampening material, you would end up with potential play in the system, which just leads to more rubbing rotors, calipers moving under hard braking etc. The vibration would just end up being transmitted through the bolt anyway. for something like brakes you want solid mounting, which just doesn't work for vibration dampening.
Bryguy17 is offline
post thanked by:
Chewyeti (03-06-2008), TDUB (03-06-2008)
Old 03-06-2008, 10:33 AM   #28 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Default

The two things I am going to try are:
  • Get brake tabes faced.
  • Change rotor size.
Im going to do each change individually. That way I know what actually works, if they work. The other options I am considering is a new wheel. If it is afrequency issue that changing to a different wheel might work also. That is going to be my next option.

Thanks for all the ideas! It might take me a while to actually get to test these cause i dont know when my knee is going to be better. Ill keep this thread updated.
TDUB is offline
post thanked by:
DeeZee (03-06-2008)
Old 03-06-2008, 10:41 AM   #29 (permalink)
STR Veteran
 
Default Face

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDUB View Post
The two things I am going to try are:
  • Get brake tabes faced.
  • Change rotor size.
Im going to do each change individually. That way I know what actually works, if they work. The other options I am considering is a new wheel. If it is afrequency issue that changing to a different wheel might work also. That is going to be my next option.

Thanks for all the ideas! It might take me a while to actually get to test these cause i dont know when my knee is going to be better. Ill keep this thread updated.
Do that first


"The other options I am considering is a new wheel."

How about getting different brakes
DeeZee is offline
post thanked by:
TDUB (03-06-2008)
Old 03-06-2008, 10:46 AM   #30 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Default

Other than the howling im really happy witht the way the Juicy 7's perform and the rear is brand spanking new.

Plus I have been wanting to buy a real nice/light wheelset. So it just becomes an excuse to buy new wheels!
TDUB is offline
post thanked by:
DeeZee (03-06-2008)
Old 03-06-2008, 04:47 PM   #31 (permalink)
SLO Rider
 
Bryguy17's Avatar
 
Default

instead of buying, you could also have someone who's good with wheels (or yourself) change the total tension of the wheel. a slight increase or decrease in tension will change the resonant frequency of the wheel, possibly alleviating the problem.
Bryguy17 is offline
post thanked by:
TDUB (03-07-2008)
STR sponsored links
Reply
  SoCalTrailRiders > Local Riding > The Workshop

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
front and rear brakes, or avid rear. FyrFytrRyn The Market Place 1 02-16-2008 02:35 PM
Avid Juicy 3 rear brake Rossage The Market Place 7 01-27-2008 11:16 AM
Brand New Juicy 7's 203mm front 185mm rear Nagaredama The Market Place 12 11-14-2007 06:43 AM
Avid Juicy Carbon Rear Brake 160mm davidB The Market Place 2 10-16-2007 11:11 AM
Rear hub on it's way out???? ECOdork The Workshop 6 10-03-2005 08:30 AM

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.2.0 RC7


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96