headests

[crazyjeys]

i installed my new fork last night... and when i finished... i noticed that there was play on my headset! did everything to try and fix it but it was still there. the one currently installed is a cane creek s2. you guys have any suggestions what headset i should buy? i'm still thinking about CK's. but what else is there that's not as pricey as the CK's?

[genusmtbkr5]

Are you sure your steering tube is cut to the right length? You may just need a spacer so when you tighten the stem down it will have no play.

[crazyjeys]

Originally Posted by genusmtbkr5

Are you sure your steering tube is cut to the right length? You may just need a spacer so when you tighten the stem down it will have no play.

i'm pretty sure that its cut at the right length. the headset play are like swaying back and forth when you rock the bike while holding down the brakes.

[HELLDOG]

Originally Posted by crazyjeys

i installed my new fork last night... and when i finished... i noticed that there was play on my headset! did everything to try and fix it but it was still there. the one currently installed is a cane creek s2. you guys have any suggestions what headset i should buy? i'm still thinking about CK's. but what else is there that's not as pricey as the CK's?

Cane Creek Headsets Suck. Ditch it and buy a Chris King, I have had one of mine for over ten years now.

Check out Crank Bros they make a sick lookin Headset too. Same price range as the Chris.

[genusmtbkr5]

Originally Posted by crazyjeys

i'm pretty sure that its cut at the right length. the headset play are like swaying back and forth when you rock the bike while holding down the brakes.

Take your stem cap off and your steerer tube should not be flush with your stem. It should be about 1/8 tp 1/4 inch below your stem. If it is flush, then it is not allowing the stem to sit all the way down thus giving you play.

If the length is right, tighten the cap first as to push the stem onto the steerer, then tighten the stem.

[mntbiker12]

Couple of other things to check:

1. May be obvious, but make sure stem is loose before you tighten headset.
2. Is your ring that goes on the steerer tube (is that called a race?) is seated properly.
3. Make sure the play you're feeling isn't in the fork. I know that Manitou forks for instance are notorious for that. Hold the front brake down and rock back and forth and the whole front end feels loose, but it's just actual play in the fork.

Hope that helps.

[2wheel_lee]

Remove the top cap from the stem. Depending on how deep your cap drops down into your stem, the steer tube should be at least 2-3 mm below the top surface of the stem. If it doesn't the top cap will bottom out, giving you the feeling that it is tight, when actually it just bottomed out on the steer tube, without actually fully tightening the headset.

[DBD]

Is the crown race installed on the fork?
Did you tighten the stem before torquing the headset down?
Bearings in the right order/position?

I like to leave about 2.5mm to 3mm from the top of the steerer tube to the top of the stem. If the stem is not cut that short then get some more spacers or cut a bit more off

It is hard to say really without looking at it.

[crazyjeys]

thanks for the replies... i'll try checking it tonight when i get home. hopefully it's just the steerer... thanks!

[bikeadict]

I'll bet that you might have left off the crown race, or have on the wrong crown race.
Or you need to make sure you have either a headset spacer or your stem at least 1/4 an inch over the top of the steerer. Tighten the headset bolt first then tighten the stem bolts.

[roadkillross]

loosen up the stem bolts, have a spacer and tighten down the starnut a good bit, then tighte up the stem bolts.

[Schecky]

The only thing I haven't seen mentioned is the star nut. Is it OK? They can rust, etc. I found two tabs on mine rotted out once.
Worth a look.

[mntbiker12]

I've also seen starnuts that don't go in evenly and that creates some play because the stem cap doesn't go in flush.

Great thread! This is the best part of this little community; if you need help, you'll get it a'plenty and quickly.

Originally Posted by Schecky

The only thing I haven't seen mentioned is the star nut. Is it OK? They can rust, etc. I found two tabs on mine rotted out once.
Worth a look.

[Zippo]

check that everything is correct per the above suggestions, and then lose the star nut. go with a head lock - the piece of mind and absolute lack of headset loosening is well worth the weight penalty IMO:

http://www.beyondbikes.com/bb/ItemMa...CM-HEA-headloc

[DISCO]

Those S-2 headsets are problematic, the most common problem I observed was the bearing not tightly seating in the cup. Because of this I have sent at least half a dozen of them to the dumpster after getting warranty credit. Some will argue that you get what you pay for but that is not always the truth. If weight is less a concern than strength and longevity just get a cheap BMX headset with steel cups, they are tough to crack with suspension and have been trouble free for me. If you want sealed bearings the new Crank Bros are probably the best but certainly not the cheapest. Runners up are the Cane creek 100 and everyones favorite CK which I like for it manufacturing more than its function.

[92se-r]

I beg to differ. Certain individual on here showed me with long travel forks, because CK doesn't have a split ring, can cause play in the headset. I've run a few Cane Creek headsets and never had a problem.

Originally Posted by HELLDOG

Cane Creek Headsets Suck. Ditch it and buy a Chris King, I have had one of mine for over ten years now.

Check out Crank Bros they make a sick lookin Headset too. Same price range as the Chris.

I think the top cap is bottoming out on the steerer and not the spacer/stem.

[Schecky]

Originally Posted by Zippo

check that everything is correct per the above suggestions, and then lose the star nut. go with a head lock - the piece of mind and absolute lack of headset loosening is well worth the weight penalty IMO:

http://www.beyondbikes.com/bb/ItemMa...CM-HEA-headloc

I kinda want to try one of these next time:

[dudevf1]

A friend of mine was describing to me recently how his headset needed t be tightened at his LBS. I didn't understand it because the wobble and looseness that he described seemed like it would mean that the head tube was bent or the headset was distorted if it were related to it. But what he actually was describing was caused by not properly tightening the stem cap and the stem clamp bolts. Check these first and you may find your problem is there, very easy and quick fix.

[crazyjeys]

thanks a lot for the replies.... i checked the top cap thoroughly and found out that it was flush with the steerer. i cut a few millimeters more and screw in the top cap again... it worked! whew! you guys were right. thanks for that very helpful advice! i didn't notice it the first time. cheers!

[DBD]

Originally Posted by Schecky

I kinda want to try one of these next time:

I have those, they came with my Hope headset a few years ago, 4 dh race seasons and a lot of XC miles and never had a problem with it. Always stayed tight.

I am considering getting another Hope but I believe they changed the design a bit and use different bearings and seal now because of a US patent. I need to check one out if I can find one locally.