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Old 03-03-2008, 02:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
Shrek must be destroyed
 
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Default Changing Reba 29er to 100mm from 80mm

Hi all,

I have this fork, and want to up the travel to 100 i believe. I have the 'included magic spacers' to do this, but no instructions or any idea on HOW to do it.

Anyone done it? Is it easy? What tools are required etc....

Thanks!
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Easy

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chewyeti View Post
Hi all,

I have this fork, and want to up the travel to 100 i believe. I have the 'included magic spacers' to do this, but no instructions or any idea on HOW to do it.

Anyone done it? Is it easy? What tools are required etc....

Thanks!
Check out Rainman's blog on MTBR or do a search. At 100 it Reba feels much nicer

ps. The procedure is the same for the 26" and 29" versions.

Good luck!
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Default Flex

Quote:
Originally Posted by mechmann View Post
"much nicer" is relative. it is flexier, but you can set it up so that it can actually absorb some bumps before bottoming out. i am not a fan of Reba, but she gets the job done...
here we go.............
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:45 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default

I read that the Reba Race can be converted, but not the Reba SL.

I think I copied this from Rainman's site:

Reba Travel Adjustment.
Here's the quick and dirty on the Reba travel adjustment setup.

Let the air out of the positive and negative chambers.

Remove both valve cores.

Compress the fork and attach a strap to hold fork compressed.

Unscrew the 10mm nut on the bottom of the left leg until it is flush with the end of the negative air chamber threads.

Tap the nut with a soft hammer to unseat the air chamber (or air piston rod) from the slider.

Some oil will drain out so have a catch pan ready.

Remove the 24mm top cap from the left leg.

Use a thin rod to carefully push the air piston out of the top of the left leg.

Carefully push the thin rod through the hole in the bottom of the slider against the air piston rod until the air piston comes out the top of the leg.

Under the air piston is the spacer if the fork is set up for 80mm, or no spacer =100mm.

If going from 80 to 100 remove the spacer, if 100 to 80 add the spacer.

Carefully push the air piston down past the threads inside the stanchion about an inch.

Add 3-5cc 5wt Rockshox oil on top of air piston.

Install the positive air cap (24mm) and torque to 60 in/lb.

Install the positive chamber valve core.

Turn the fork upside down and with a syringe add 15cc of a 50/50 mix of 5wt and Red Rum through the hole in the slider.

Using a shock pump on the positive chamber add enough air to force the threaded portion of the piston rod out the bottom of the slider.

Install the 10mm nut and torque to 45 in/lb.

Remove the holding strap, inflate the positive chamber to the desired pressure, inflate the neg chamber 10 psi less.

Install both air cap covers, clean the fork and you are just about done.

E Z.
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Ok

Quote:
Originally Posted by mechmann View Post
believe me, when you drop in on a super steep chute, and the front wheel wanders a bunch with brake modulation because nearly 100% of your weight is on the fork, that flex counts! i noticed the flex at 80mm pretty heavily in Kernville and Snow Summit last year.
But if the fork is compressed does it matter if it set at 80mm or 100mm

Maybe we are talking about two different things. I had a Reba on one bike set at 80mm and another at 100mm. The travel setting did not effect "fork flex". Meaning the both felt the same except the 100 felt more plush.

Wasn't comparing 20mm to Standard.

But a Fox Standard Fork is the Chuck Norris of forks. Just ask Fo Shizz
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:03 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Now I am more confused

Quote:
Originally Posted by mechmann View Post
two forks set up correctly, one at 80 and one at 100, the 100 will flex more in the situation i described. the fork isn't bottomed out when dropping in on a chute like that, there is lots of stantion showing. the problem with the Reba is that there is no thru axle, and the stantions are too skinny. now throw a thru axle on there and the 09 should be g2g...

never mind............
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:30 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default

its funny because yesterday on a ride my buddy asked if my front wheel ever felt noodly on turns and i said no... he is running a reba up front
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Old 03-03-2008, 03:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Default ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by tkblazer View Post
its funny because yesterday on a ride my buddy asked if my front wheel ever felt noodly on turns and i said no... he is running a reba up front
That's funny

I saw a guy this weekend on the Fox 29'er fork. I asked him "I didn't know you could get those in Gray I thought they were all White". He said "they only come in White......my seals are leaking"
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Old 03-03-2008, 11:54 PM   #9 (permalink)
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come over chewi my 4x just got converted to 85mm lol gonna play with the oil levels though, all we have to do is drop a spacer not a big deal
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Old 03-04-2008, 05:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
Shrek must be destroyed
 
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he says 5wt rock shox oil AND red rum?

wtf is red rum? not alcohol right?!?!?!? and not ATF (Automatic tranny fluid...)
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08 VOODOO Canzo 29er
08 Santa Cruz NOMAD
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Look at page 4 of the service guide:


RS Reba Service Guide
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default

Flimsy forks are in the eye of the beholder, it is aggravated by the inherent lack of stiffness in a standard QR skewer. If you are over 180 Lbs and or like to relive your BMX glory days. Currently I ride a 10mm thru axle in the front but will be swapping pike lowers onto my fork to prevent rotor rub when heeled over.
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