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Old 09-03-2005, 01:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
i am dino
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Default Frustrations with new brake pads!!!

So I buy 2 sets of brake pads for my Hayes HFX9's and pop the old ones out, reset the pistons to the best of my ability and drop the new pads in. Well I can't for the life of me get the rotor to stop rubbing the pads. The back wheel is so bad that it won't even spin at all. This is driving me nuts and i'm thinking of just throwing my old pads back on the back for now to get me through tomorrows ride.

Anyone have any suggestions?
Old 09-03-2005, 02:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Use the force Luke Skywalker. Well I was gonna say bring it over tonight, but you can't....so ummm yeah. I somtimes try and hold whichever pad is doing all of the rubbing with a screwdriver and then pump the lever after you have pushed that pad back in a bit. You just sort of need to keep one piston or the other from coming out further than the other and causing all of the rubbing. Pump the lever just a little bit at a time and watch the pads to see which piston is being pushed out more than the other. Good luck, may the force be with you.
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Old 09-03-2005, 10:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You can re-center the caliper by loosening the bolts (on top of the caliper I think) that alow for that adjustment. For new pads sometimes it takes a pretty precise adjustment. You can try the method suggested by Hayes, which is to loosen the bolts, squeeze the lever to center the caliper, then re-tighten the bolts. That might get it pretty close. One more thing: make sure your wheel isn't way out of true. But it is most likely just an adjustment issue.

One final hint: I have found that I need to periodically lube my caliper pistons with brake fluid to keep them from getting sticky to the point where they start coming out crooked and wearing the pads uneven. It's a bit tricky and messy, since it involves pumping the pistons out, lubing, and pressing them back in a few times. Clean the inside of the caliper with alcohol when finished. If you're getting even wear, then no worries.
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Old 09-03-2005, 10:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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HFX9's... I second the caliper lubing. Try alternating the lubing of the pads by install one pad first. Holding it back while you squeeze the lever. Push both calipers back. Take that pad out, switch the other pad in and repeat.

Hopefully this quick fix works. Finicky Hydraulic Discs makes me think I should go back to Avid Mech. Discs sometimes.
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Old 09-03-2005, 10:33 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Oh I forgot. I'd do this with your old pads. If you squeeze too far, brake fluid might leak out of the caliper and cantaminate the pad.
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Old 09-04-2005, 04:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
i am dino
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I used the force and managed to get the back wheel to spin freely. O.B. Juan Kanobe told me to loosen the screw on the resevoir up on the lever and squeeze it to let some juice out. I did that and it worked out fine.

I did try the method of loosening the caliper bolts, squeezing the lever and tightening the bolts and then releasing the lever. That method has worked for me in the past but didnt do much for me this time. I do want to try lubing the pistons though as I tried to reset them I noticed that if i pushed in on the top, the bottom would stick out, very frustrating.

Thanks for all the input everyone!
Old 09-04-2005, 05:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Avid mechanicals.
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Old 09-04-2005, 06:07 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r-kelly
Avid mechanicals.
word.
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Old 09-04-2005, 06:14 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Welcome back STU!!!
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Old 09-05-2005, 05:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I also just changed the pads on my Hayes HFX9. I tried the semi-metallic (gold color) pads. They are supposed to last longer than the metallic (black ones). My metallic ones last me about 4 months but braked great and felt so smooth.

Well, after 3 rides I hate the semi-metallics, they are very noisy and feel gritty. The braking is ok, but not as precise as the metallic pads.

Unfortunatly, because of their main advantage, I'll be stuck longer with them.
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Old 02-02-2006, 12:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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i slap a business card on both sides of the rotor and squeeze creates a nice small gap so no rotor rub...
Old 02-22-2006, 07:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Just an update on the semi-metallic pads, They are still not worn out, 5 month! They are not as gritty as they were but I still can't wait to get new pads.

They do the job. which is still impressive, considering it stops a 260 lb guy with a 35 lb bike. that's almost 300lb in motion!!!!
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Old 02-23-2006, 04:52 AM   #13 (permalink)
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i usaully place a business card on both sides of the rotor and squeeze. this puts a small gap between the pads and rotor. i also use a spare rotor to do all this instead of holding the wheel and fussing with it like that. no rub then adjust the lever to get the feel you want.
Old 02-23-2006, 08:41 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Using the spare rotor is a good idea. When the shop receive the new brakes, they usually have a plastic spacer. You can ask your shop for one. It is also great if you have to remove the wheel for transportation, it avoids closing the caliper by accident.
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