Buying Rims

[Winger]

I'm about to attempt to build my first set of wheels. What exactly should I be looking for when I buy rims?

I ask because I just spent time on the Mavic web site and every rim seems to weigh the same, but has a huge variation in cost.

I'm looking for 26" rim brake versions, 32 hole, for this build. I could go with any brand of rims, but am just using Mavic as an example.

The 117:
440 grams
1.5 - 2.3 tires
$23

The 317:
440 grams
1.5 - 2.3 tires
$32

The 717:
420 grams
1.0 - 2.1 tires
$75

[allison]

Possibly width and durability? Odd that they list them all similar in weight.

What are you looking to put the wheels on, and what type of riding?

[dubjay]

Hey Winger - I think those 3 are essentially all the same rims, with the 717 being the newest model so to speak. The 117 was the original, which was succeeded by the 317..and finally by the 717.

That's just a guess though..Mavic's sites are never very informative..

[TooManyTacos]

From what I understand, the last two digits refer to the width (17mm?), while the first digit refers to which series. I believe the 117 and 217 are intended to be OEM only, and from what I understand are pinned instead of welded. There are a few other differences, but I'm sure some of the wheel experts will chime in soon enough.

[el_d00der1n0]

I built up some with 317s. They're a smidge heavier than 717, but at that price... Looking at the cross section, they look like they'd be stronger. I have put them on the truing stand a couple of times since building them, and they've yet to really be out much. Just a mm here and there...


edit: here's the thread: First Run at Wheelbuilding

[Winger]

They are going on a Trek 4900 hardtail for XC riding.....nothing too technical because it rattles my brains on that bike. Strength is somewhat important as I weigh 185.

[allison]

Originally Posted by Winger

They are going on a Trek 4900 hardtail for XC riding.....nothing too technical because it rattles my brains on that bike. Strength is somewhat important as I weigh 185.

I had the 317's (in 05, so no idea if they are the same) on my Stumpy.

What is your price range for rims? Just curious. Is weight at all an issue? I assume you don't want heavy. I'd probably try to find something like the 717's?

[Pho'dUp]

If you have disc hubs already, I think you should build some rims that will do both rim and disc brakes.

[Abui]

Originally Posted by Winger

I'm about to attempt to build my first set of wheels. What exactly should I be looking for when I buy rims?

I ask because I just spent time on the Mavic web site and every rim seems to weigh the same, but has a huge variation in cost.

I'm looking for 26" rim brake versions, 32 hole, for this build. I could go with any brand of rims, but am just using Mavic as an example.

The 117:
440 grams
1.5 - 2.3 tires
$23

The 317:
440 grams
1.5 - 2.3 tires
$32

The 717:
420 grams
1.0 - 2.1 tires
$75

I was curious and looked at Mavic. The 717's have ceramic coated rims, stronger hardened alloy, etc.

[allison]

Originally Posted by Pho'dUp

I don't think 317s or 717s will do rim brake.

If you have disc hubs already, I think you should build some rims that will do both rim and disc brakes.

Off the top of my head, DT Swis 4.1 (pricey), Sun Rhynolites (Sturdy, but porky), Mavic 519 (if you can find'em) amd maybe the Salsa rim?

Ooh, good call.

Does Salsa make 26" rims?

[Pho'dUp]

Originally Posted by allison

Ooh, good call.

Does Salsa make 26" rims?

Opps. Mavic still makes rim brake 717's. But don't know if they recommend these to be used with disc brakes.

$20 bucks. Sun Rhynos with black sidewall.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=147

[northshore]

I'm not trying to thread jack here but I'm glad this thread came up because my current DT Swiss 540s are heavier than sin but I'm afraid to go with a lighter rim since I do like going down rocky stuff.

Edit: back to Winger's needs.

[el_d00der1n0]

Originally Posted by Pho'dUp

Opps. Mavic still makes rim brake 717's. But don't know if they recommend these to be used with disc brakes.

$20 bucks. Sun Rhynos with black sidewall.
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...4&category=147

317s come in rim also. http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...m+317+Rim.aspx

[Pato]

Dubjay is partially correct. The last two numbers indicate the internal rim width. The first number indicates the series with the higher the number the better it is. The 717 is their top of the line product replacing the 517 NOT the 317. The new 3xx are their entry level products. The seam is welded instead of being pinned together like the 117 and 317. At your weight and riding a hardtail, I'd go with something welded. Welding also provides a smoother braking surface usually since there are no gaps at the seams.

I know, it's a little confusing if you don't know which is an old product with the old numbering convention vs. the new products with the new numbering convention. If you can swing the XC717 I would also look at DT Swiss 4.2 or the NoTubes Olympics. The Mavic XC717 will be easier to build up, but the Olympics will be lighter and a little bit wider. I have no experience with the DT Swiss 4.2 rims.

Duc

[ODB]

Originally Posted by northshore

I'm not trying to thread jack here but I'm glad this thread came up because my current DT Swiss 540s are heavier than sin but I'm afraid to go with a lighter rim since I do like going down rocky stuff.

Edit: back to Winger's needs.

You might want to think about DT Swiss 5.1ds. Only 500 grams, but they've been absolutely bomber for me after a few months ... and i like the rocky stuff and am no lightweight. Good weight/strength compromise for all-around riding. That said, I'm looking to lighten up one of my bikes, and will probably go with the lighter 4.1s for that wheel build. But that's only cuz I plan on using that bike largely for XC racing.

[Pato]

Originally Posted by northshore

I'm not trying to thread jack here but I'm glad this thread came up because my current DT Swiss 540s are heavier than sin but I'm afraid to go with a lighter rim since I do like going down rocky stuff.

Look into NoTubes ZTR Arch. 420g claimed weight with an internal width of 19mm. I have a pair I built up myself and have been beating the snot out of it on Rock-It/Lynx at full speed and did 5' drops to nearly flat at Sullivan Canyon. Only once did I have to re-true the rear wheel and that was because I broke a couple of spokes on a crash in the rocks.

[Winger]

Pato made a pretty compelling reason to go with the welded rims....In the grand scheme, $80 is cheaper than the dr. bills if I tacoed it. But then the bike originally cost $450, and on this "project" I'd be up to $230 in hub/rims + spokes.


What are the chances that I'm just going to totally mess up the truing and have to trash the rim before it even hits the trail?

[allison]

Originally Posted by Winger

Pato made a pretty compelling reason to go with the welded rims....In the grand scheme, $80 is cheaper than the dr. bills if I tacoed it. But then the bike originally cost $450, and on this "project" I'd be up to $230 in hub/rims + spokes.


What are the chances that I'm just going to totally mess up the truing and have to trash the rim before it even hits the trail?

FWIW, Justin got Mavic Crossmax XL rims for the Enduro (when it was his) and rode those for a bit, but then got the Mavic 819's. I don't recall if he ever used those on the Socom or not, but he found those were not beefy enough for him. He was doing drops and stuff, though.

He eventually went to the 823 for DH racing/riding on the Socom.

I don't think you'd have a huge problem with any general rim. You shouldn't need a super beefy rim. At 185 you're nowhere near clyde status, and on the HT probably aren't doing 3+ foot drops. Riding in rocks you may want to check out the true every now and then, but if the wheel is built right I wouldn't think you'd have any big problems.

[Pato]

Originally Posted by Winger

What are the chances that I'm just going to totally mess up the truing and have to trash the rim before it even hits the trail?

Very slim to none if you follow directions and take your time. What happens once you hit the dirt is another question entirely and will depend and how even you were able to get the spoke tensions while getting the wheel dished, trued and round.

If you really want to be smart about it, you can get disk hubs and use rim brake compatible rims. This way you have the option of running rim brakes now and upgrade to disk in the future without having to get new wheels again.

Your wheel investment can follow you to your next bike when you get it. Notice I said "when" and not "if". We all know you will get infected with the upgradeitis bug sooner or later. It happens to all of us don't worry. Resistance is futile.

[el_d00der1n0]

Originally Posted by Pato

We all know you will get infected with the upgradeitis bug sooner or later. It happens to all of us don't worry. Resistance is futile.

If only my wife would just accept it...