It's official........Sliders are better

[el_d00der1n0]

[Liquid55]

This is when i went to Columbus for my sisters wedding... I had to get White Castle not the frozen crap for me

[el_d00der1n0]

Originally Posted by Liquid55

This is when i went to Columbus for my sisters wedding... I had to get White Castle not the frozen crap for me

Did she get married to a Beach Boy at a White Castle restaurant?

[CPATCRASH]

Originally Posted by Abui

If you saw off the derailleur hanger.

That looks great! But I also think some sliders look good.

[Padre]

I'm (now) 205lbs using 182mm cranks and I tend to ride a good bit.

I adjust my EBB every 6 months or so.

My wife's Niner One 9 requires EBB adjustments at least once per season.

[1FG rider]

I had problems on my Cannondale 1FG split wedge EBB constantly. It always slipped and the design made it difficult to adjust. On my Niner Sir 9 EBB, no problems except for a little creaking. My Schwinn cruiser has semi-vertical dropouts and used to slip when I really torqued on it until I added a Surly Tugnut. Now its slip and creak free.

[thephat]

Originally Posted by DeeZee

On my 5th SS frame and finally have one that does not require constant chain adjustment.

Some riders do not have problems with EBB’s but I am a heavier rider and mash. After every ride (over 15 miles) I would have to adjust the chain.

This slider design has set screws that keep the sliders from moving. Once I got it dialed in the chain tension has remained the same.


That’s my story and I am sticking to it

You better find some wood to knock on.

Your experiment is pretty limited.

I have seen issues with sliders, ebb, and track drop outs. I have also seen these issues overcome. I'm glad your setup is working for you. I had a customer sell his Voodoo Dambala because he could not stop the sliders from sliding.

When single speeding fist became popular, we all ran track drop outs. Ar first they seemed perfect, then as there were more folks on them, we started to see problems. The knurls on hubs would whare out, and there would be slipage, or it would be a little paint that was causing slipage, get out the wire wheel. Sometimes they would just slip. Some folks would tighten them down so hard that the frame would get a groove where the axle likes to sit, and no matter what you do, the axle wants to go back to that spot when you tighten it down. On lighter flexier frames, some bigger stronger folks always had issues.

Then, EBBs came into vogue. The honeymoon began. The EBB was the answer to all of our problems. For a while, it seemed all was good. As single speeding continued to be trendy, and we had more and more ebb bikes that we were servicing, the problems started to show. They can slip and creek. Heaven forbid if you brake the bolt on your wedging EBB, getting it out is murder.

Next came sliding drop outs. I jumped at these, and told everyone I could. I would be selling a single speed frame, and I would suggest sliders, and folks would be like, "my buddy has no problems with his EBB, I'll just do an EBB" As the stories of issues with EBB designs got around, the sliders took off. Soon, we had customers comming in with issues with the sliders all of the time. There was even a point where my staff asked me to stop selling bikes with sliding drop outs.

The bottom line is that all forms of chain tensioning have strengths and weeknesses. and it really comes down to the actuall execution of the design. There are many different ebb designs out there, and same with sliders.

As far as I am concerned, paragon sliders are the best with a cut shell pinching type ebb a close number 2.

The thing that black market does witht horiz drop outs and a disc brake is good for that application. Trail bikes would push the limits of this design because of different rotor sizes, more idiots riding them to mess it up, and I think more dependance on full pad contact on the rotor than mtx dj or street.


Paragons may be as close as it comes to slip proof, but hey are big bucks.

[Abui]

EBB slipping problems can be fixed by changing the cog or rings. (Change both if you want to keep close to your desired gear-inches.)

The torque on an EBB varies with its position. Maxumum at 6 and 12 o'clock. Minimum (zero if perfect) at 3 and 9 o'clock. And at 9 o'clock it can't slip because the EBB can't get any closer to the axle.

It's cheaper to change rings than bikes.

Sliders always have to resist the total pull.

[foofighter]

i just about took a chainsaw to my bike today trying to adjust my chain length...one length was too long and too short w/ the EBB at its shortest position. So i had to take a dremel to the rear drop outs to bring the rear wheel in a bit...took about an hour of it to get it to finally work...i figure after a while the chain will stretch a bit.

[RacinJason]

I'm on the lighter side at 190 lbs. I can safely say my ebb wont budge no matter what .

Some might move but it might have to do with improper tightening.
My split EBB just rocks!

You have had more SS bikes than me so I'm sure you have had many experiences with them.

Originally Posted by DeeZee

On my 5th SS frame and finally have one that does not require constant chain adjustment.

Some riders do not have problems with EBB’s but I am a heavier rider and mash. After every ride (over 15 miles) I would have to adjust the chain.

This slider design has set screws that keep the sliders from moving. Once I got it dialed in the chain tension has remained the same.


That’s my story and I am sticking to it

[DeeZee]

Still have not had to adjust the sliders once!

I will root for the Red Sux and Cel'dicks before I own another EBB again!