The Horse can stand to shed some pounds

[dubjay]

Originally Posted by northshore

My buddies Stumpy has the DT 4.2s....wow what a difference. What did it cost you to get a decent light weight set built up?

Wheels were not that cheap.

Let's see...

Stans Flow x2 @ $75 each
Hope Pro II Hubs @ $265 for the pair
Sapim CX-Ray x64 @ $2 each.
Alloy nipples x64 - I don't know..like $5?

Like $550? Not including the beers I drank while building them

[Dino Brown]

First of all- you must decide on the intended purpose of the bike. If you want a weight-weenie bike- go light! I say the best thing to do is: shave off some weight (and plenty of rolling resistance) by upgrading the wheelset! Done!

Confused about the pedals though. Your bike should have been delivered with SMARTY pedals.

The bike should weigh 30.8 pounds! Mr. Epic is absolutely correct: Any lighter and you lose trail worthiness!

With regard to tires, I use a 2.3 High Roller up front.... Ignitor in the back. Lovin' it!

You could always lose 2 pounds. Won't cost you a thing!

[houseofmusic]

how heavy is your horse anyway? it can't be more than 31lbs??? eh?

[northshore]

Originally Posted by DeeZee

After the wheels look at the stuff that rotates (cassette and cranks) for bang for your buck

Agreed. Less rotating mass the better.

Originally Posted by Rivet

I'm always suprised when people recommend Sapim CX-Ray spokes. They are Ridiculously expensive and have a bad habit of work hardening and breaking at the elbows. For a bike like the MKIII I would never go any lighter than DT Super Comps, and if the rider is bigger and rides hard stick with Competitions.

I tip in at about 200lbs but Dino will tell you I'm lying.

Originally Posted by dubjay

Wheels were not that cheap.

Let's see...

Stans Flow x2 @ $75 each
Hope Pro II Hubs @ $265 for the pair
Sapim CX-Ray x64 @ $2 each.
Alloy nipples x64 - I don't know..like $5?

Like $550? Not including the beers I drank while building them

well, I sold my race car....hmmmm HAHAHAHAHHA dang it!

[houseofmusic]

Originally Posted by Dino Brown

The bike should weigh 30.8 pounds! Mr. Epic is absolutely correct: Any lighter and you lose trail worthiness!

if the bike is at 30.8 pounds like what Dino said, then I would just get lighter wheelset and be done with it.

30lbs AM bike is really is not a heavy bike.

[northshore]

Originally Posted by Dino Brown

First of all- you must decide on the intended purpose of the bike. If you want a weight-weenie bike- go light! I say the best thing to do is: shave off some weight (and plenty of rolling resistance) by upgrading the wheelset! Done!

Confused about the pedals though. Your bike should have been delivered with SMARTY pedals.

The bike should weigh 30.8 pounds! Mr. Epic is absolutely correct: Any lighter and you lose trail worthiness!

With regard to tires, I use a 2.3 High Roller up front.... Ignitor in the back. Lovin' it!

You could always lose 2 pounds. Won't cost you a thing!

Dino! Intended purpose is an all around A.M. bike to throw around. I'm not looking to be the super weight weenie but something lighter would be nice. I can really feel that weight in climbing. Yes, it did come with Smarties but I sold them to El Dood in S.D. I didn't really liked how they felt on my fat feet either.

[ODB]

Titanium V-brakes--or better yet, cantilevers--instead of discs
One-piece carbon fiber bar/stem combo
Mythos 1.9 tires
Purple anodized cranks, seatpost and headset (everyone knows purple ano is lighter)


Honestly, I don't see why you'd want to lighten that bike. The weight is likely right where it should be for its intended purpose. Enjoy it for what it is, i say.

[Dino Brown]

Originally Posted by northshore

Dino! Intended purpose is an all around A.M. bike to throw around. I'm not looking to be the super weight weenie but something lighter would be nice. I can really feel that weight in climbing. Yes, it did come with Smarties but I sold them to El Dood in S.D. I didn't really liked how they felt on my fat feet either.

Northshore- You are NOT feeling the weight of the bike! What you are feeling (in my opinion) are the wheels and (High Roller) tires! My bike started out at 28 pounds! Tried to make it faster (2.4 Mutano's up front/ various fast tires on back). Noticeably quicker in every way! Trouble is I needed MAXIMUM traction. Decided High Roller's front and rear were the way to go. Slow as molasses. Found (MY) perfect combo with 2.3 High Roller's up front/2.3 Ignitor's on the back!

What I am trying to say is: try a (lightweight) tire combo with less rolling resistance FIRST! If that is not enough, a quick wheelset will do the trick!

[bighit8]

I have never owned a bike that was less than thirty lbs. I will never understand the big fuss on weight. Just pedal damn it.

[Seat Sniffer]

I was recently researching platforms. The lightest, but not necessarily the lowest profile, were the MG1s from wellgo. 378g. they can be had for under $50 and come in more colors than a clown's dick.

Originally Posted by bighit8

I have never owned a bike that was less than thirty lbs. I will never understand the big fuss on weight. Just pedal damn it.

I had once switched bikes with a more conditioned rider mid climb. my mkiii for his spec fsrxc. I beat him to the top. Even non rotational mass affects your climbs, at least from my experience.

[Red Hot Sloth]

Originally Posted by Seat Sniffer

Even non rotational mass affects your climbs, at least from my experience.

I saw some kind of "rotational mass" that had something to do with a guy on a Iron Horse cartwheeling down a rocky hill last week

Oh...and I can vouge for the Wellgo MG-1's...super light, and tough

[Edog]

Here are some wheels at a good price, front wheel just $70, centerlock adopter at Jenson for $18 if you need it

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...%20%2D%20Front

http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?c...s%20%2D%20Rear

Check out the specs on the Sette parts at price point, they are often lighter than the big brands, I've got nothing but good things to say about there stuff.

I have Easton Monkey lite carbon bars that have done me well, had them for at least 3 years, crashed a few times. I inspect them often no sign of cracking or damage.
http://www.pricepoint.com/subList-22-Sette-Products.htm

I got an Easton Havoc Wheelset super cheep & those wheels rock too

[Seat Sniffer]

Originally Posted by Red Hot Sloth

I saw some kind of "rotational mass" that had something to do with a guy on a Iron Horse catrwheeling down a hill last week

no no. that's rotational ass.

[Red Hot Sloth]

Originally Posted by Seat Sniffer

no no. that's rotational ass.

Oh...my mistake....lead donkey

[Shu]

Just so you can put those numbers to actual use

100g = 3.5 ozs
200g = 7 ozs
400g = 14.1 ozs
500g = 17.6 ozs = 1.1 lb
1650g = 3.63 lbs
1750g = 3.85 lbs
2000g = 4.4 lbs

[Shu]

Originally Posted by Seat Sniffer

I had once switched bikes with a more conditioned rider mid climb. my mkiii for his spec fsrxc. I beat him to the top. Even non rotational mass affects your climbs, at least from my experience.

Pedal efficiency has a lot to do w/ it also...lose all the weight you want but if your bike bobs you aren't efficient which means you're slow...not necessarily heavy

[FyrFytrRyn]

easy, drill holes in everything, including the chain. several holes! helium in tubes (or even if tubeless). ditch the grips, brakes, and all shifting equipment and go to a single speed set up. take all the padding off the seat to bare plastic and sand the plastic smooth. cut seatpost off 1mm after insertion into frame. cut bars 4" on eachside. above all, make sure you know im kidding.

[northshore]

I'm going the cheapest route first. Dino's recommendation on tires and then pedals. Dino, correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the Maxxis high rollers a modified version of DH tires? They seem heavy! I do see some deals on the Ignitors though!

[Seat Sniffer]

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