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Old 12-18-2007, 07:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default installing cables/housings.

Ive gotten most of my build done and have run cable housing for both Derails. but now as I run the cable and lock down the rear(x-9, with shift at 9), and start to do a test shift I notice the cable is dragging the housing. here is the senario:

1. No chain or cassette is in play(meaning Im installing the cable without the chain and Cassette in place)
2. I cut the cable housing but did not shave the ends and clean out the hole(per sheldon Brown's write up)
3. my first time!!!!! running my own cables.

I will try to post up pics of where it drags tonight once I get home!!! I really want to learn how to do this so please don't tell me to take it to a shop, even though I will once I reach my wits end!!!

TIA

Thai
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Old 12-18-2007, 07:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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spit on it
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:28 PM   #3 (permalink)
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cable is dragging the housing -- Not sure what you mean by this. If the housing stops at the cable/frame stops, then you shouldn't have any drag. Also, you might want to try lubing the housing (although some thinks this attracts dirt).
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:33 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cableguy View Post
cable is dragging the housing -- Not sure what you mean by this. Lube the housing (although some thinks this attracts dirt).
when I shift from 9 to 1 part of the housing moves with the cable..Im pretty sure this is not suppose to happen..
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:36 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The housing may be just a bit short, or did you use cable cutters, if you use snips it could cause the cable to bind in the housing and create "drag".
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by .8down View Post
when I shift from 9 to 1 part of the housing moves with the cable..Im pretty sure this is not suppose to happen..
This happens even with the housing inserted into the cable stop? If there is tension in the cable, and all the housing are inserted into the stops, you shouldn't get any housing movement; just the cable only.
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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sounds like the housing was cut a bit too short?? hard to say - fun stuff eh? Once you get the whole cable/housing thing down, it'll shift like butter. Which reminds me....time to replace all mine as well.
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cableguy View Post
This happens even with the housing inserted into the cable stop? If there is tension in the cable, and all the housing are inserted into the stops, you shouldn't get any housing movement; just the cable only.
the frame has cable stops only on the rear triangle...the the cables are run under the top tube and taht cable stop is not really a stop its just a tube that the cable housing goes into...its hard to explain without pictures, I think it will be come clear once I get the picts up.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoid169 View Post
sounds like the housing was cut a bit too short?? hard to say - fun stuff eh? Once you get the whole cable/housing thing down, it'll shift like butter. Which reminds me....time to replace all mine as well.
I hope you are not correct, this would mean I would have to get extra housing!!!!
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
the frame has cable stops only on the rear triangle...the the cables are run under the top tube and taht cable stop is not really a stop its just a tube that the cable housing goes into.
so is it full housing?
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Hot Sloth View Post
The housing may be just a bit short, or did you use cable cutters, if you use snips it could cause the cable to bind in the housing and create "drag".
Is it o.k. to quote myself?
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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First of all you can't take shortcuts or you'll just end up swearing on every ride because your bike shifts like crap.

1 - You need to make sure your cuts are clean and you opened up the hole the cable slides through. You can't skip this.

2 - How are you planning on adjusting your derailleurs without your chain/cassette on?

I know you don't want to hear this but if you cut the housing too short and you are having other issues throw it in the trash and start over. Bulk housing is cheap.

It's really not that difficult. It sounds like you have the Sheldon Brown book. Look through the directions completely before you start. Then follow those directions step by step.

If it's still a problem maybe bring a six-pack to your LBS and they may let you watch them.

C
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalEpic View Post
If it's still a problem maybe bring a six-pack to your LBS and they may let you watch them.

C
Or bring it down to Oceanside friday afternoon, we'll fill up the growlers at Oceanside Ale Works, pic up some new housing, and I'll walk ya through it.
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Bring it down to San Diego and we can do a bike building geekout. You can pay me with a California burrito. I'd run full housing personally.
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Old 12-18-2007, 09:57 PM   #14 (permalink)
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If I understand things correctly, you need to have the cassette and chain installed at this point. You don't necessarily need to have them installed when cutting the cables but if you try to run through the gears without the cassette and chain installed you will get what I think you are experiencing. Before you go through the trouble of re-cutting things install the cassette and chain. Follow Sheldon's advice for chain length.

If you do have to re-cable things I highly recommend Dura Ace cables. I only run the cables and have for the past 3 years. I read years ago in some study by the Germans that Dura Ace cables stretch the least of any cable on the market, save some Jagwire cable model I could never find. Dura Ace cables are easy to find and only a few dollars more.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CalEpic View Post
First of all you can't take shortcuts or you'll just end up swearing on every ride because your bike shifts like crap.

1 - You need to make sure your cuts are clean and you opened up the hole the cable slides through. You can't skip this.

2 - How are you planning on adjusting your derailleurs without your chain/cassette on?

I know you don't want to hear this but if you cut the housing too short and you are having other issues throw it in the trash and start over. Bulk housing is cheap.

It's really not that difficult. It sounds like you have the Sheldon Brown book. Look through the directions completely before you start. Then follow those directions step by step.

If it's still a problem maybe bring a six-pack to your LBS and they may let you watch them.

C
I don't think I was taking a short cuts but more so I didn't know better, inexperience is not my friend, here are pics of what is happening...

these are the stops in the rear triangle:


these are teh stops on the top tube, notice the allow the housing to move back.


finally this is what happens when I pull the triggger:


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBMaven View Post
If I understand things correctly, you need to have the cassette and chain installed at this point. You don't necessarily need to have them installed when cutting the cables but if you try to run through the gears without the cassette and chain installed you will get what I think you are experiencing. Before you go through the trouble of re-cutting things install the cassette and chain. Follow Sheldon's advice for chain length.

If you do have to re-cable things I highly recommend Dura Ace cables. I only run the cables and have for the past 3 years. I read years ago in some study by the Germans that Dura Ace cables stretch the least of any cable on the market, save some Jagwire cable model I could never find. Dura Ace cables are easy to find and only a few dollars more.
I will give this a try...thanks!!!
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:46 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Check the ends on your housing where you made your cuts. If it's not cut clean, you can get what you pictured. Also check your ferrules where cable comes through.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Red Hot Sloth View Post
Check the ends on your housing where you made your cuts. If it's not cut clean, you can get what you pictured. Also check your ferrules where cable comes through.
ya I think I will take everything off and recheck all my cuts, I did use the proper cable/housing cutter by Park tools, but I do think some cleaning of the cut areas, and opening of the holes as well as putting the wheelset, chain and cassette into play...thanks everyone for your constructive critic of my job...I really do want to learn how to do all this correctly, and without some hands on guidance I expected to run into trouble spots.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:57 PM   #18 (permalink)
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It's all good. Make sure the r der. isn't "stuck", have all the gear on the bike when you run the cable/housing, clean cuts, open housing ends, new ferrules(not pinched), no binds or sharp bends in housing, couple beers keeps the cussing down, step away for a few minutes, come back with a fresh mind and eyes.
There is only a couple things that can cause what your experiencing.
You'll get it right.
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Old 12-18-2007, 11:07 PM   #19 (permalink)
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As people already wrote above, I think you need to shift test while the cassette and everything else is in place. And make sure there aren't any frayed cable strands causing problems. Lastly, try lubing the housing. Graphite powder is supposed to be the way to go, but I have used regular lube with success.
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Old 12-19-2007, 12:24 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Silicone dry lube in the housings.
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