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#2 (permalink) |
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Stuck up, half witted...
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I'm not exactly knowledgeable in this area but I'll take a stab.
First, there's set up. Things like properly setting your sag, rebound, and compression. Then there's tuning/customizing like what Push Industries does. They change out the one size fits all internals of your shock or fork and customize it specifically for your weight and riding style. Is that what you meant by your question? |
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#3 (permalink) |
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STR Veteran
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I think I am more interested in the customizing part. maybe not getting my stuff worked on persay but setting my rebound correctly and things of that nature. is it dependent on me as a rider or the spots that I ride in and how I ride?
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| post thanked by: |
station (11-15-2007)
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#4 (permalink) |
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Rocket Man
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Before anything else, you've got to set the sag (fork and shock) correctly. For air systems this is easy, and it's easy for coil shocks. I think coil forks are where it can take a bit of effort to set sag.
The compression and rebound dampening come after that of course. Fork: I have low rebound dampening (i.e. faster return to full extension after a compression) and high compression (want a bit less travel unless I hit a BIG drop). Shock: I have high rebound dampening (so I'm not catapulted out of my seat after a drop/bump), and low compression (so it's more plush on my buttocks). Hope that makes sense! Just set the sag first and everything else is just fine tuning really. ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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STR Veteran
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Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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trail-male for hire...
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1) Set your "sag" according to the manufacturer's spec (usually around 25%). Being at the absolute "top" of your travel is not good. it causes a harsh ride and your wheels can't follow the bumps that go "down" from your wheels as you ride. It can also damage some forks/shocks to constant hit the top out point. On anything with real springs, it's important to have the right spring rate for you weight. If you "preload" the spring too much, you actually lose travel. I try to run as little preload as possible (air being the exception).
2) Rebound dampening. This is the most common external adjustment on forks & shocks. It affect how the suspension responds after a bump. Too fast and you'll bounce after landing off of something big (like a curb). Too slow and you suspension will "pack down" or get shorter and shorter as yougo over many small bumps. 3) compression, usually low speed. This is really how "firm" your fork and shock feels JRA. it's how stiff the suspension is when it just starts to move (from wherever it is in the travel). Be it "platform valving" or just normal compression adjustment, you want you suspension as soft as possible without it bobbing or feeling generally "squishy". When it's set right, your bike will "feel" solid, like you have allot of control, without it feeling every little bump in your hands, feet, and butt. High-speed dampening (compression and rebound) is usually set internally. It is really how your suspension performs when you are hitting big bumps and jumping. If you regularly "bottom out", you should see a suspension Dr. for major adjustments, or get a bigger/better shock or fork. I (200+lbs of me) rode a properly set up 4" bike for for years, jumping off all kinds of stuff, and the only way I could bottom it was on really big, slow, dips called "g-outs" where g forces increase your weight "slowly" (in suspension terms) and push the spring down with out the highspeed dampening trying to stop it. Hope you can understand all of my very technical descriptions... |
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.8down (11-15-2007)
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#8 (permalink) |
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STR Veteran
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stop projecting.
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foofighter (11-15-2007)
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