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COLEKO · 11-13-2007, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcampbell

don't have time to read the whole post so if this is already stated.. sorry.

Go to Orvac (I believe that's how its spelled) electronics on Orangthorpe over close to the Fully Loop. They will be able to sell you all the right batteries and help you with the correct voltages for what your application is. I stopped by there recently and picked up new cells for a nightrider light. They seem to be of better quality than the stockers.

If your good with RC stuff, you would be fine with building a light yourself. I was thinking about making one soon for a helmet mount.

Orvac is a cool place...I used to go there for some Rc related stuff and switches..Another place I like is Ford Electronics on commonwealth.

Flat Broke · 11-13-2007, 11:56 AM

This is actually a good topic. While doing a whole new LED array would be nice using some Luxeons or something like that, I've actually got a niterider trailrat (10watt) and another older niterider with the same housing as the trailrat, but I think a 7watt bulb and runs off a bunch of C cells. My biggest complaint asside from light output with the trailrat was the battery charging hassle. Niterider wants an arm and a leg for what I'm guessing is a 4000mAh NIMH pack.

I was thinking about getting either a new charger for the existing pack, or going to some Li Ion packs and a new charger. If I go big enough on the mAh rating, I can upgrade to 15 watt bulbs in each light, and still get 2 hours of burn time. If I did my math right, a 7.2v pack pushing 15watt 6v bulbs would equal a draw of 2.0833 amps. A 4000mAh pack should give me 144 minutes. Could be a nice cheap upgrade to my existing lights.

I'd love to go LED, but the reflector/housing is where the $$ is, and it's not easily DIYable with clean results. Anyone run 15watt halogent Niterider bulbs that could tell me if this would be an appreciable gain in output?

Chris

DISCO · 11-13-2007, 12:06 PM

I use a Cheap cateye bar mount that is surprisingly effective for the price.

http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/345

Mine is the older el-500 model and it is more than adequate for most casual rides. Pair it up with some Duracell rechargeable AA's from Wal-mart and you've got an excellent basic set up for around $60 bucks.

Personally I bit the bullet and took a chance on the Niterider Tri-newt and have not been disappointed. These two are the only LED's I have seen that emit a pure white light, and make night riding a reality. The Tri gives most HID's a run for their money in brightness, particularly when you factor the High cost of a fragile new HID Bulb (over $200) and heat and run time issues. LED's are only going to get brighter and you can always upgrade with the manufacturers parts.

While the Tri may not be a bargain it is still around $200-350 bucks cheaper than HID's and the bulb replacement will never be an issue.

In conclusion you get what you pay for, I buy only the highest quality safety gear to spend more time riding and less time healing.

sdyeti · 11-13-2007, 12:13 PM

Well, I haven't seen the battery part, but the light part is an old mini desk lamp. His name's Everett...next time we run into him on a ride, I'll try to take a picture.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghixon

How in the world did he do that?

He must travel with the worlds longest extension cord....

Love to see photos of the invention.

BrewMaster · 11-13-2007, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pickettt@aol.com

Do you understand the difference between series and parallel wiring?

Yeah, I remember that part of college physics.

series: -> ->->->->->->

parallel:
->
->
->
->
->

Chewyeti · 11-13-2007, 01:50 PM

LOL on the diagram.

BrewMaster · 11-13-2007, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chewyeti

LOL on the diagram.

you love my diagram and you know it.

Chewyeti · 11-13-2007, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrewMaster

you love my diagram and you know it.

love it like a red headed step child LOL

too funny

Devoid169 · 11-13-2007, 02:23 PM

I stumbled upon a great place to get all my cordless tool battery packs rebuilt. I have an older, high-quality 18 volt craftsman drill/saw combo that I bought for $350 almost 10 years ago - after years of hard use the packs finally wouldn't hold a charge. Found a place in Anaheim hills to rebuild the batteries for less than retail and putting better batteries than stock in their place. Now my drill/saw fly like new and last longer than they ever used to. Might be worth it to ask them if they'd do bike light packs - I don't see why not.
The rebuild charge for my 18v packs was 32 bucks each - and had them ready in a week. I opened one up and looked at the configuration - something like 13 batteries in each one, which works out to around 20 bucks per pack to buy the batteries online - then the hassle of soldering them all up....forget it. These guys did a great job.

http://wcbatteryrebuilders.com/

sailcalifornia · 11-13-2007, 02:26 PM

this was posted on STR before, looks pretty legit

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ulti...-lumens-with-/

BrewMaster · 11-13-2007, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailcalifornia

this was posted on STR before, looks pretty legit

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ulti...-lumens-with-/

Dude, that is totally doable and looks like a good design. I might have to try that one.

DISCO · 11-13-2007, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sailcalifornia

this was posted on STR before, looks pretty legit

http://www.instructables.com/id/Ultimate-Night-Vision-Headlamp---500%2b-lumens-with-/

Looks kind of hinky to me, anybody ride that contraption ?

sailcalifornia · 11-13-2007, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrewMaster

Dude, that is totally doable and looks like a good design. I might have to try that one.

Thats what i thought when i saw it. I am just not good at that kind of stuff, but for $60 it is worth a try.

stewed · 11-13-2007, 04:14 PM

Just finished a Cree Q5 LED light project. I posted a summery on MTBR there's some beam photos I shot on the Ful-loop at the end.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=349694

Do Work · 11-13-2007, 04:15 PM

This is a pretty cool thread...ill might have to give this a shot and save some money

BrewMaster · 11-14-2007, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stewed

Just finished a Cree Q5 LED light project. I posted a summery on MTBR there's some beam photos I shot on the Ful-loop at the end.

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=349694

I'm pretty green at this so I need the simple instructions for idiots. The instructables link seems simple, but I'm sure I'll find a way to screw it up. Good thing the battery can't electrocute me too badly...

JOx2 · 11-14-2007, 01:50 PM

attaches via industrial grade velcro

velcro'ed at the helmet, it tilts so aiming is not a problem

i haven't get to try it at dark, it does look promising. and for 16 buckaroos and some velcro, its not too bad after all. it is rated 85 lumens, it can probably take night rides only slower.

COLEKO · 11-14-2007, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrewMaster

Good thing the battery can't electrocute me too badly...

I sometimes worry about these.

foofighter · 11-14-2007, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLEKO

I sometimes worry about these.

how many millamps are those batteries?

jcampbell · 11-14-2007, 04:01 PM

What you should be worried about is that you probably paid over $500.00 for those little suckers if they have good numbers.

11-13-2007, 01:50 PM	#26 (permalink)
Chewyeti Trail PIMP.....	LOL on the diagram. __________________ Chewy THE Yeti Call me Chewy or Aaron VOODOO Gonzo 29 Big Boys ride.....BIG wheels.

11-13-2007, 02:23 PM	#29 (permalink)
Devoid169 Donny	Battery rebuilding possibilities.... I stumbled upon a great place to get all my cordless tool battery packs rebuilt. I have an older, high-quality 18 volt craftsman drill/saw combo that I bought for $350 almost 10 years ago - after years of hard use the packs finally wouldn't hold a charge. Found a place in Anaheim hills to rebuild the batteries for less than retail and putting better batteries than stock in their place. Now my drill/saw fly like new and last longer than they ever used to. Might be worth it to ask them if they'd do bike light packs - I don't see why not. The rebuild charge for my 18v packs was 32 bucks each - and had them ready in a week. I opened one up and looked at the configuration - something like 13 batteries in each one, which works out to around 20 bucks per pack to buy the batteries online - then the hassle of soldering them all up....forget it. These guys did a great job. http://wcbatteryrebuilders.com/ __________________ God made man, but he used the monkey to do it. DEVO

11-13-2007, 04:15 PM	#35 (permalink)
Do Work Eddie would go...	This is a pretty cool thread...ill might have to give this a shot and save some money __________________ Strike First, Strike Fast, Strike Hard...No Mercy

11-14-2007, 04:01 PM	#40 (permalink)
jcampbell going my speed since 1975	What you should be worried about is that you probably paid over $500.00 for those little suckers if they have good numbers. __________________

11-13-2007, 11:56 AM	#22 (permalink)
Flat Broke Bikes don't kill bunnies	This is actually a good topic. While doing a whole new LED array would be nice using some Luxeons or something like that, I've actually got a niterider trailrat (10watt) and another older niterider with the same housing as the trailrat, but I think a 7watt bulb and runs off a bunch of C cells. My biggest complaint asside from light output with the trailrat was the battery charging hassle. Niterider wants an arm and a leg for what I'm guessing is a 4000mAh NIMH pack. I was thinking about getting either a new charger for the existing pack, or going to some Li Ion packs and a new charger. If I go big enough on the mAh rating, I can upgrade to 15 watt bulbs in each light, and still get 2 hours of burn time. If I did my math right, a 7.2v pack pushing 15watt 6v bulbs would equal a draw of 2.0833 amps. A 4000mAh pack should give me 144 minutes. Could be a nice cheap upgrade to my existing lights. I'd love to go LED, but the reflector/housing is where the $$ is, and it's not easily DIYable with clean results. Anyone run 15watt halogent Niterider bulbs that could tell me if this would be an appreciable gain in output? Chris

11-13-2007, 12:06 PM	#23 (permalink)
DISCO Chumba Pimp	I use a Cheap cateye bar mount that is surprisingly effective for the price. http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/345 Mine is the older el-500 model and it is more than adequate for most casual rides. Pair it up with some Duracell rechargeable AA's from Wal-mart and you've got an excellent basic set up for around $60 bucks. Personally I bit the bullet and took a chance on the Niterider Tri-newt and have not been disappointed. These two are the only LED's I have seen that emit a pure white light, and make night riding a reality. The Tri gives most HID's a run for their money in brightness, particularly when you factor the High cost of a fragile new HID Bulb (over $200) and heat and run time issues. LED's are only going to get brighter and you can always upgrade with the manufacturers parts. While the Tri may not be a bargain it is still around $200-350 bucks cheaper than HID's and the bulb replacement will never be an issue. In conclusion you get what you pay for, I buy only the highest quality safety gear to spend more time riding and less time healing.

11-13-2007, 02:26 PM	#30 (permalink)
sailcalifornia Senior Member	this was posted on STR before, looks pretty legit http://www.instructables.com/id/Ulti...-lumens-with-/

11-13-2007, 04:14 PM	#34 (permalink)
stewed Junior Member	Just finished a Cree Q5 LED light project. I posted a summery on MTBR there's some beam photos I shot on the Ful-loop at the end. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=349694

11-14-2007, 01:50 PM	#37 (permalink)
JOx2 Good Grasshopper	attaches via industrial grade velcro velcro'ed at the helmet, it tilts so aiming is not a problem i haven't get to try it at dark, it does look promising. and for 16 buckaroos and some velcro, its not too bad after all. it is rated 85 lumens, it can probably take night rides only slower.

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