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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
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Hey guys, I just purchased an 09 fisher utopia and I would like some input on some modifications I am considering. Even though it is a hybrid, I purchased this bike strictly to ride on the road (for fitness/fun and when I can't go mt biking), and I want to make this bike more road friendly. For starters, I definitely want to change out the sram shifters/rear derailleur. I was also thinking about changing the gearing on the bike to something more along the lines of a road bike, but I don't know what I should go for. Right now, it has a 48/36/26 crankset and a 11-32t 9 spd cassette. I will be riding in hilly areas a good amount, so maybe the existing gearing will suffice?
I am definitely changing the existing sram shifters and rear derailleur to shimano, but I am not sure whether to go with their road or mtb line... I recently put xt shifters and derailleurs on my stumpy and absolutely love them (i really don't like sram shifters). What would you guys recommend for the shifters/rear derailleurs? Go with the lx? Or go with the road bike line and get tiagra/105 components? How about the gearing? Is it worth it to change it out? Thank you! ![]() |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Wannabe Weight Weenie!!!
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Worth the change out? NO...
But I'd do the same thing. ![]() I'd go for the tiagra/105 stuff because the gearing is better suited for road. (You'll go faster) The MTB stuff makes is stronger if you ever wanna take it off some ramp or something. But in reality, I'd keep it the way it is...and TRASH the heck out of em. Enjoy your new ride. ![]() |
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DISCO (07-02-2009)
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Banned
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How many miles have you put on As-Is? just to see how it feels . Cheapest route will be a 11-26 Cassette, or even going to Shimano 8 spd which is also very economical. As far as upgrades 2X10 Ultegra and higher kits are everywhere, but 105 is still 9spd I think . If it aint broke why should you be? ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Banned
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its good as-is. if anything, just switch to a road triple crankset and wear everything else out.
http://fisherbikes.com/bike/model/utopia |
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DISCO (07-02-2009)
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#6 (permalink) |
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Deer Ugly
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Change everything out! Bike shops could use the business.
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__________________
TKBlazer: Pho'dUp forgot his clothes i guess i have to stop by the thrift store and pick him up a dress to wear for the race ![]() freekengo: don't be a chewy and ride. Steven Jackson: ask yore girlfriend about my dopplir. |
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DISCO (07-02-2009)
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
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thanks for all the replies!
i got the utopia for the upright position, disk brakes, and front shock. I didn't want to get a dedicated road bike because of the drop down bars. I also wanted a front shock because even though it will slow me down, I feel much more comfortable where I will mess around with on this bike (so many potholes). as far as the rear derailleur and shifters go, I am definitely changing them out regardless of whether I change the gearing or not. I honestly hate the feeling of sram shifters, I changed out the x7 trig/x9 rear derailleur on my stumpy after less than a month. i prefer the feel of shimano, along with the two way shifting. you guys mentioned the road gearing... I have been researching and it looks like the 11-26 cassette and 50/39/30 crankset is the popular choice... should i go for something along these lines? Would this eliminate the easier first gears (which i need for the hilly areas)? thanks |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Banned
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Not sure what crank you are on now, if it's just a square taper or octalink go to a 2 piece road unit (105 or higher, compact
), leave the stock cassette and leave the granny ring on the MTB where it belongs as there are not many stretches of blacktop that will need less than a 32. there is a cheap SLX long cage in the marketplace and with that and some 9 spd pods you ought to be dialed for a casual cruise. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
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my only worry is going with a road crank is that it may create funky gears when mixed with the existing cassette... you think it should be fine? What if I only changed the existing cassette to the 11-26, and kept the crankset for now (since this would be the cheapest route)? pointless?
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#12 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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What makes your current setup not "road" enough? Is it too heavy? Is the gearing spaced out too much? You can change the shifters and derailleur to match your personal preference for feel, but make sure you think it through. If you buy a 9sp shifter but end up going with a 10sp drivetrain, you'll have to buy another shifter. If you change your crankset to a 50/39/30, you'll likely feel like your granny gear isn't granny enough. I'm assuming your hybrid has a mountain triple (44/32/22). Also keep in mind your overall chain wrap/rear derailleur cage size when you change the size of the chainring/cassette.
And yes, 105 comes in 10sp. |
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strobelite (07-03-2009)
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Member
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Quote:
the existing crankset is 48/36/26 and has a 11-32 cassette... I feel like this bike from the factory comes out as a 50/50 road/mtb in terms of its setup, and I just wanted to do what I could to bring it to as close to 100% road as possible (minus switching out to a rigid fork). Also, the bike is really heavy unfortunately. This definitely bothers me, but theres not much I could do since the frame itself is really heavy. thank you for your help! |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Glacier Climber
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I wouldn't change anything until it breaks. Shifters don't bother me because I spend 99.999% of the time without touching them. |
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DISCO (07-03-2009)
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
- The smaller the gear, you generate more torque (hill climber, aka. granny gear), but less distance per pedal revolution. - The bigger the gear, you generate more distance per revolution, but less torque. - The bigger the chainring in the front, the bigger your gear. - The bigger the cassette sprocket in the back, the smaller your gear. Sheldon Brown has a gear ratio calculator. Another good gear ratio calculator. Your 11-32 cassette is a pretty standard mountain cassette. Big range for all the changing terrain. A road cassette can be as narrow as 12-23. Smaller range for optimum efficiency in the slightly changing pavement. 48/36/26 is indeed an in betweenie when it comes to cranksets. A road crankset is typically 53/39 (or as compact as 46/34, like on my cx bike). A mountain crankset is typically 44/32/22, with some AM double cranksets being 38/22, 36/22, 36/26, etc. So back to my question of "why." If you want a more road drivetrain to go faster, you must increase the front chainrings/crankset. Your 11 on the cassette is as fast as you get. If you want a road drivetrain to fine tune your pedalling, you can change your cassette to a 12-25 or so, but at the sacrifice of your granny gear. If you want a road drivetrain to go fast on the downhill and have a granny gear, you're playing the line between a big chainring and a large cassette, which may pose problems in your chain wrap. I.e. - I've never heard of anyone running a 53 chainring with an 11-34 cassette. At the risk of making too many assumptions, I think your current setup is sufficient. Your 26 granny chainring mated with your 32 cassette sprocket will give you plenty of climbing power. Your 48 chainring mated with your 11 cassette sprocket will give you plenty of speed. I would venture to say that your research ought to be focused around the tires and pressure to best suit your all around needs. / end essay. |
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kkfromla (07-06-2009)
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. Cheapest route will be a 11-26 Cassette, or even going to Shimano 8 spd which is also very economical. As far as upgrades 2X10 Ultegra and higher kits are everywhere, but 105 is still 9spd I think
. 


), leave the stock cassette and leave the granny ring on the MTB where it belongs as there are not many stretches of blacktop that will need less than a 32. there is a cheap SLX long cage in the marketplace and with that and some 9 spd pods you ought to be dialed for a casual cruise.
