[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]Purpose: [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]To have fun, to race, to sweat, breathe hard, to ride hard, to challenge ones self.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]We will be hosting 4 Sunday races in the month of July. Each race will have a meet point at 5pm and race at 5:30/6:00 pm. Most races will be short 1 to 2 hour affairs. Meet points and descriptions of each race will be posted so you know what to expect. [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]Rules for bikes:[/SIZE][/FONT]
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Gearing: [/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]Single speed only. No internal geared hubs (sturmey-archer, bendix two speed kick backs etc.) no derailleur of any kind (A chain tensioner is fine). No external gearing. No gears. No fixed gear. Each race will usually require a different gear ratio and you can have any gear ratio you wish. We have found that 30-36 in the front and 18-22 in the back is the range best suited for this event, see what works best for you.[/SIZE][/FONT]
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Drive system:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]The rear hub must be a coaster brake. Single speed coaster brake only. No two-speed kick backs, etc (I know what they look like) Some coaster brakes are better than others, do your homework and get a good one. See below for more info. Cranks of any kind may be used as well as pedals. [/SIZE][/FONT]
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Braking system:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]Coaster brake only on the rear wheel only. No hand brakes of any kind. No secondary braking system of any kind. No drum brakes, no cables, rods, levers, etc of any kind. You pedal forward to go forward and back to stop. Nothing else. [/SIZE][/FONT]
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Frame:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]Preference for old double bar cruisers but there are no frame restrictions. We have found that cruiser frames and lower end frames with a horizontal dropouts work the best. Frames with a rigid dropout are difficult to get proper chain tension. [/SIZE][/FONT]
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Forks:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]Any. [/SIZE][/FONT]
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Wheels/tires:[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]You can have any kind of hoop/tire combo. I suggest a light wheelset that you've laced a coaster brake into. [/SIZE][/FONT]
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Handlebars etc.[/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Franklin Gothic Medium][SIZE=6]Everything else is left up to the individual rider. [/SIZE][/FONT]
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Here are some examples of bikes that would work great for this event:[/SIZE][/FONT]

[SIZE=5]This is a custom job. A bit over the top unless you want to go that way but you can build a purpose built bike like this one or take something else and make it work. The gearing on this bike is 34/19 for now. I'm going to test it out and see if I need to change things. The bike has performed well, the rider, not so well.[/SIZE]

[SIZE=4]Here's my old trusty 1964 Schwinn. It normally has V brakes and a freehub single speed set up but for this race I laced up some old Arayas ala bmx with a Bendix red band. The gearing is 36/20 and I've been able to climb up some pretty steep hills this bad boy. Once you learn some control with the break, you'll seldom skid. You just have to descend slower than you would on a regular bike. I've had this bike for years and beaten the hell out of it, old Schwinns make Ideal platforms for this kind of event. Note the "1 1/8 threadless fork in the frame made for "1 threaded. The bottom bracket clearance is a little low, it's something to look for. Most of the races are on fire roads so low bb clearance is not a big deal.[/SIZE]
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